Front drive pully removal question

replay13 · 07-28-2017, 03:21 PM

Hello Everyone,
I'm getting stuff ready to change the belt on my 2010 Nomad 1700. The manual says I need to remove the front drive pulley. I see Kawasaki has a tool to hold the pulley for removal and torqueing it back tight. I priced Kawasaki's tool and handle at about $300, sticker shock for a tool!
I'm pretty sure I can remove the nut with an impact, but need to make or find something to hold the pulley when I torque it back on. It torques at a pretty high poundage, 129 lbs so need something pretty strong to hold it.
Has anyone done this before, or any thoughts on making or finding a pulley holder?
Thanks,
James

Peg · 07-28-2017, 05:25 PM

I'd try not to use an impact unless you really have to, for fear of doing damage in the gearbox. I loosened mine carefully, using a rag-wrapped piece of steel wedged between a tooth on the pulley and the frame to hold the pulley still, and a very long breaker bar. And then tightened it in similar fashion using a torque wrench. It's probably not ideal, but it was the best I could think of without spending for that special tool.

Just make sure you assemble it exactly as in the manual. Use a new washer, and molybdenum disulfide grease on the threads (never loctite), torqued correctly. Some have had issues with the nut loosening, which will destroy the output shaft.

gv550 · 07-29-2017, 08:10 AM

I'm curious why you feel the need to replace the drive belt. My experience is the belt will last indefinitely, and the teeth on the pulleys will wear more than the belt.
There is an aftermarket tool, search for 'pulley holder for big twin', it is meant for HD bikes but works perfectly on 1700s. It engages 5-6 teeth on the front pulley and has a short lever that sits against the swingarm and locks the pulley from turning. I've seen them for $49. I have also used a large Allen key, the short end engaging a spoke of the pulley and long end touching the frame. If you do use an impact wrench make sure the transmission is in neutral.
As Peg mentioned, don't use loctite on the threads. Use molybdenum disulphide grease on the spline, the thread, and the seating surface of the nut. And DO NOT EVER reuse that tab washer. New washer every time you loosen the nut.

07-28-2017, 03:21 PM	#1
replay13 Member Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Southern Oregon Posts: 224	Front drive pully removal question Hello Everyone, I'm getting stuff ready to change the belt on my 2010 Nomad 1700. The manual says I need to remove the front drive pulley. I see Kawasaki has a tool to hold the pulley for removal and torqueing it back tight. I priced Kawasaki's tool and handle at about $300, sticker shock for a tool! I'm pretty sure I can remove the nut with an impact, but need to make or find something to hold the pulley when I torque it back on. It torques at a pretty high poundage, 129 lbs so need something pretty strong to hold it. Has anyone done this before, or any thoughts on making or finding a pulley holder? Thanks, James __________________ Kawasaki 2010 Nomad 1700 Southern Oregon Vance & Hines slash cut slip-ons Cobra Powerpro CVT Thunder Air Kit, stock cover Kuryakyn Power Point 12v adaptor Cobra Luggage Rack Grasshopper back rest Tomtom GPS Login or Register to Remove Ads
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07-28-2017, 05:25 PM	#2
Peg Sr. Member Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: West Coast, North Island, New Zealand Posts: 1,375	I'd try not to use an impact unless you really have to, for fear of doing damage in the gearbox. I loosened mine carefully, using a rag-wrapped piece of steel wedged between a tooth on the pulley and the frame to hold the pulley still, and a very long breaker bar. And then tightened it in similar fashion using a torque wrench. It's probably not ideal, but it was the best I could think of without spending for that special tool. Just make sure you assemble it exactly as in the manual. Use a new washer, and molybdenum disulfide grease on the threads (never loctite), torqued correctly. Some have had issues with the nut loosening, which will destroy the output shaft. __________________ Nothing screams poor workmanship like wrinkles in the duct tape '02 1500 blonde Nomad (Sold) '97 800 burgundy Classic (Sold)
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07-29-2017, 08:10 AM	#3
gv550 Advanced Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Listowel, Ontario Posts: 642	I'm curious why you feel the need to replace the drive belt. My experience is the belt will last indefinitely, and the teeth on the pulleys will wear more than the belt. There is an aftermarket tool, search for 'pulley holder for big twin', it is meant for HD bikes but works perfectly on 1700s. It engages 5-6 teeth on the front pulley and has a short lever that sits against the swingarm and locks the pulley from turning. I've seen them for $49. I have also used a large Allen key, the short end engaging a spoke of the pulley and long end touching the frame. If you do use an impact wrench make sure the transmission is in neutral. As Peg mentioned, don't use loctite on the threads. Use molybdenum disulphide grease on the spline, the thread, and the seating surface of the nut. And DO NOT EVER reuse that tab washer. New washer every time you loosen the nut. __________________ Garry 2009 1700 Voyager KACT, sold at 679,465 kms 2011 1700 Nomad Improve handling, suspension and tire life with Garry's Fork Brace. PM for details.
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