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Old 08-09-2017, 02:57 PM   #16
Sabre-t   Sabre-t is offline
 
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Originally Posted by ldhthept View Post
Those are tapered bearings, not needle bearings.
Oops, sorry. I meant tapered not needle.



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Old 08-09-2017, 03:02 PM   #17
mr500   mr500 is offline
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Yeah Im on the same page as you. 2 relief cuts 180 apart. Once I get the race away from the frame with a drift, I think I can get my park tool in there and badda book badda boom.. Im working on getting a tap and zerk to do just that. Still cant get over how one fork tube oil was grey and the other was red tranny fluid. There's not telling what this bike went through b4 I got it lol..
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Old 08-09-2017, 04:54 PM   #18
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It must be something kawi did with the 1600s, but myself, and everyone I know personally that owns a 1600, on the first fork oil change, one of them would be red, and the other grey. I've owned my bike since new, and it was like that on the first change. Ive done my fork oil 2 more times (3 total) using Motul fork oil (I prefer 15w), and since then, they've been the same color.
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Old 08-09-2017, 06:29 PM   #19
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Once you get the drift to work, you will probably not need the Park tool at all. You would have to get the races to move quite a bit to get the unmodified tool to catch anyway. But whatever works!!!

One post says,
Quote:
it looks like they replaced the bearings but put very little, if any, grease on them.
What is the mileage on the bike? The bearings and races probably have not been done before and don't look much different from mine before I replaced them.

I took my fork tubes and hung them upside down to drain them. Then I flushed them with 10wt and drained them again. Then I used BelRay 15wt.
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Old 08-09-2017, 08:04 PM   #20
mr500   mr500 is offline
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Bike is at 27xxx. Yeah don't know if the tool is going to work seeing how the frame has that weird angle. I have hit it with a dremel slow go for sure. In order to keep the lip on the race, you have to stay above it lol. Ill get back at it tomorrow for sure.

That's weird how you have the different oil from Kawasaki. I guess no one has ever done the oil change. I know the bearings are the stock ones as they have the Kawa part number on them.
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Old 08-09-2017, 10:35 PM   #21
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Slow going?
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In order to keep the lip on the race, you have to stay above it lol.
It took maybe a minute each to get the grooves done "under" the races. If you have that small stone grinding head available the old races make a perfect guide for the back end of the grinding stone. 3/32" is not very much. Have we got it right?
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Old 08-10-2017, 07:31 AM   #22
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I have the stone. Mine is not white but a grinding stone just eh same. I have a small lip started, but nothing I can get a punch on yet.


Ill hit it hard today when I get home. Hopefully punch them out. I really don't wanna have to cut the races. But if it comes to that... Something tells me mine will be stubborn and not want to come out lol.
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Old 08-10-2017, 04:01 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VulcanE View Post
It must be something kawi did with the 1600s, but myself, and everyone I know personally that owns a 1600, on the first fork oil change, one of them would be red, and the other grey. I've owned my bike since new, and it was like that on the first change. Ive done my fork oil 2 more times (3 total) using Motul fork oil (I prefer 15w), and since then, they've been the same color.
Weird. Does the manual recommend different oils for each fork?
 
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Old 08-10-2017, 07:16 PM   #24
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Mine did not have different color fork oil so not sure what that is about. I replaced the fork oil when I did the steering neck bearings and new front wheel bearings at approx. 43,000 miles. There was not too much sludge in the fork tubes at all and the front wheel bearing was actually in very good shape too.
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Old 08-10-2017, 09:48 PM   #25
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Yahoo my races are out. Little grinding and I popped them out. Cleaned up a few burrs I made. Bearings will be here tomorrow Yhaoo
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Old 08-10-2017, 10:05 PM   #26
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Awesome that's good to see mr500
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Old 08-11-2017, 07:37 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by Sabre-t View Post
Weird. Does the manual recommend different oils for each fork?


Nope. Manual does not from what I can see. Weird Ma Kawa would that that but they did...
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Old 08-11-2017, 07:41 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hammer View Post
Awesome that's good to see mr500


Yes it was great to hear them hit the garage floor. I used a cylinder stone as opposed to the taper one you sent in the pics. That's the only difference in the procedure really. Took about 2-4 minutes on each race and BAM.


Cleaned up some burrs, washed all the grind residue out etc... All clean and ready for some fresh bearing...


Thanks All....
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Old 08-11-2017, 08:32 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by mr500 View Post
Well there out. And just like everyone else I found damn near NO grease on the bearings. Top race was nice and clean but the bottom race was pitted as you can see.

Also what would be the reason for having transmission oil in the left fork and regular fork oil in the right fork?? One was red (tranny fluid) and other was dark grey.

Guessing the last guy that had it did not do it right??

Thoughts...
While you have it apart put a grease fitting on the side of the yoke tube so you can give it a shot of grease every 6 months and you won't ever have to do it again.

Slim
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Old 08-19-2017, 02:28 PM   #30
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Finished it all up today. Tying up some loose ends, but shes done

New Tires...New Fork Oil...Clean TB....New Air Cleaner...New Fnt Wheel Brngs...Changed Coolant...New Brake pads...New Stem Bearings...Swing Arm lube...Bled brakes/changed out fluid..Rewired driving lights and added a Relay..

Took a few weeks with work schedule and having to order tools to finish but I did Indeed finish. WHEWWWWWWW
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Last edited by mr500; 08-20-2017 at 03:15 PM.
 
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