front end upgrades: report

[Snake Ranch]

Originally Posted by tybama12

I hear you Snake

I'm probably grasping at straws lol. But never had another bagger out run her even the Indian 111 with racing cams couldn't keep up. Dang I love bike

So what are the stage one mods you are talking about?

[Sabre-t]

+1 on changing the fork oil. Also going to a heavier weight oil will help stabilize the front. I just did the fork oil and changed to Maxima 15W*. I also added Garry's fork brace. Because I did both at the same time, I can't say for sure how much each contributed to stabilizing the front, but the combo is AWESOME. Based on my experience, such as it is, the heavier fork oil provide much better compression dampening while the brace provides more side to side stability. It's like I got a new bike, especially in the twisties.

*There is no standard for fork oil viscosities. One company's 10 wt, may be the same viscosity as another's 15 wt. The OEM oil (Showa) is about equal to Maxima 10 wt. Maxima 15 wt. seems perfect for me. I think Maxima 20 wt. would be too much.

[tybama12]

Snake - I added V&H slip one a modified air box with k&N filter along with a doebek fuel processor, so really not much. I've had the bike to 130 she pulled hard up to 120 I noticed a drop before getting to 130 even than bike was still pulling decent. I had a Yamaha raider beat me pretty good when bike was still stock, but the guy on the raider wanted to what I had done to the bike when I ask why he said he never seen a baggger run that fast.

Saber-t. Garry is building a brace for me next week I'm going to take your advice and change out the oil when install it. Hopes that helps

Thanks guys
Ty

[tybama12]

I do agree with Kopperhead about the Speedo being off.

[Snake Ranch]

Originally Posted by tybama12

Snake - I added V&H slip one a modified air box with k&N filter along with a doebek fuel processor, so really not much. I've had the bike to 130 she pulled hard up to 120 I noticed a drop before getting to 130 even than bike was still pulling decent. I had a Yamaha raider beat me pretty good when bike was still stock, but the guy on the raider wanted to what I had done to the bike when I ask why he said he never seen a baggger run that fast.

Saber-t. Garry is building a brace for me next week I'm going to take your advice and change out the oil when install it. Hopes that helps

Thanks guys
Ty

Don't just change the oil. It's some more work but pull the forks apart and clean the insides.

You will not believe how much sludge you will find in the bottom of the fork tubes.

This kind of sludge will contribute to wear in the lower tube bores.

[tybama12]

Snake - so I take it this will become a full weekend job? Any special tools required? I've taken down forks on dirt bikes but nothing as big as this.

[redjay]

Make sure your motorcycle lift will span the frame rails under the bike.
The 1700's are wider than the 1500/1600's

[Sabre-t]

Originally Posted by tybama12

Snake - I added V&H slip one a modified air box with k&N filter along with a doebek fuel processor, so really not much. I've had the bike to 130 she pulled hard up to 120 I noticed a drop before getting to 130 even than bike was still pulling decent. I had a Yamaha raider beat me pretty good when bike was still stock, but the guy on the raider wanted to what I had done to the bike when I ask why he said he never seen a baggger run that fast.

Saber-t. Garry is building a brace for me next week I'm going to take your advice and change out the oil when install it. Hopes that helps

Thanks guys
Ty

Got back from the VBA rally in Lake George on Monday. After about 2800 miles with the higher weight fork oil and the fork brace, I am really pleased with how much more stable the front end is. It's almost like having a new bike. Hope you like it as well.

[Sabre-t]

Originally Posted by Snake Ranch

Don't just change the oil. It's some more work but pull the forks apart and clean the insides.

You will not believe how much sludge you will find in the bottom of the fork tubes.

This kind of sludge will contribute to wear in the lower tube bores.

The sludge is also acidic, especially if it is old enough that the inhibitors have been used up. I can't believe that Kawasaki does not recommend periodic (like every 2 years) change of the fork oil. At least, the Voyager manual doesn't.

You can get most, if not all, of the sludge out by putting in a little bit of clean oil, pumping the fork 10 or 15 times and pouring that oil out, pumping the fork to get it all out. If it is really nasty, do it twice. Of course, if you are wanting to replace all the seals, you would have to disassemble them. Changing the oil every two years on the (2) bikes I've had, I have not found that to be necessary, though.

[Snake Ranch]

Originally Posted by tybama12

Snake - so I take it this will become a full weekend job? Any special tools required? I've taken down forks on dirt bikes but nothing as big as this.

If you are doing this for the first time, yes a weekend would be a good call.

I have had mine apart all the way twice. The second time I did it in a day.

The first time around I made a bearing and seal installer and ordered new seals and bearings. I had blown a fork seal and it was leaking.

First you need to remove the handlebars and set them on the tank that you would covered with a blanked. That way you don't have to mess with the throttle cables and brake / clutch lines.

I have 2" risers so my spring compressor fits under the handlebars.

You need to decompress the fork springs. I did this by buying a ball joint puller from Harbor Freight for about $12.00 and machining the opening till it would pass over the upper fork tube and under the top triple tree plate. You can grind the opening bigger also.

If the seals are not leaking you may use them over, but if you can get new ones, that would be best.

There is a small clamp on the outside of the upper fork tube. It locates the metal dirt shield for the fork tube. If you move it, measure it's location so you get it back in the same spot.

The fork tubes will come apart easy enough. The top dust seal can be removed with a small screw driver. Next there is a snap ring that needs to be removed. Look up, on the bottom of the fork tubes, where the axle passes through the ends of the forks, there is an allen bolt that is countersunk into the casting. Remove it. It holds the rebound tube and spring in place.

Now you can "slide hammer" the tube apart. Compress the tubes and then pull them apart till they separate. Get on U-Tube there are some good videos that can give you some good visual information on how some of these forks are made.

From what I saw in my fork tubes, the amount of sludge in the bottom will not flush out with new oil. Believe me, I tried before disassembling them on the second go round.

I had to get some Brake Clean and really wash it out. Even had to get some paper towels to wipe the heavy deposits out.

I don't want the sludge in there wearing the bores where the lower bearing is supported by the outer tube. Those lower tubes are crazy expensive.

I hope this helps.

[tybama12]

Thanks guys for all your input I was really at the point of not knowing what to do. Now I have a little hope. All the parts should be in a couple of weeks tops. I'll let ya'll know how it comes out.

Snake - since I'm taking it down I'm going go ahead an replace the seals for good measure. Appreciate all you advice

Thanks again all Ty