TFI Installed.

[Todd]

The ICS's are the Idle Control Solenoids that you hear clicking like mad on your right side at low rpm. They are two small silver cylindrical shaped solenoids you will see when you remove your right side intake cover to gain access to the opening of the throttle body. You can either unplug them or unplug them and remove them. Will just make cold ambient temp start ups a little different.

[blowndodge]

OOPs! didn't see that other question ricky. As todd said about ICS.

[macmac]

Mods like this have been around a lot longer than 40 years! nearly any engines have been modded soon after they were engines since 1899

Once men interested in such things often spent many Saturday mornings working on engines in the front yards, and that more or less ended in the mid 70's which is about 40 years ago now I guess.

I haven't tested a 'all' stock Nomad with a Dobeck/Techlusion TFI, but my guess is any all still stock Nomad would benifit, since these bikes IMO are way to lean.

On the otherhand you won't gain all there is to be gained if the bike is breathing as stock, because the cross over tube is too small, and it pre-heats air.

I haven't tested de-baffeling a stock exhaust, and V&H baggers have baffels, so there can be no way for me to compare.

Basicly the stock system matches 'breathability' by allowing a minimal amount of air to be breathed IN and that same amount to be breathed out.

I see it like a long distance runner with a wide belt strapped on too tight at chest level. it works, but not much air flows all that freely.

So if you open things up, which is impossible if you take all the air IN that cross over tube can deliver, which means you must take air in from the right side one way or another, and open up the exhaust with in reason, which means still allow 'scavanging' which 'straight pipes' won't do well, and why i worry some about baffelectomy.

Then the next step which really isn't a next step mean you must enrichen mix. It isn't a next step because these engine IMO are way too lean in the first place, which shows as ping. it is admitting a too lean mix when the makers says the bike has 9:1 compression, and yet requires 91 and up octane.

9:1 compression isn'thigh compression, and is about the middle of the road. 10.5: 1 is the strating point for hi comp...

So 91 octane and up is only required to slow the fuel burn in the first place BECAUSE there isn't enough fuel to begin with by design. Not enough fuel is a violation under the laws of nature and physics.

The best over all mix for internal combustion engines IS 14:1. That is 14 parts AIR to 1 part fuel and not what i suspect is 17:1 from the factory.

There is several ways to get this done with all sorts of after market parts. Most of these parts are semi expensive, while others are now.

The kit refered to as the Caddman Kit is designed to be the least expence, and the easyiest to convert back to all stock, should that event be forced by law.

One of the most expensive is the Hyper Charger, which is no sort of charger period. A charger of any kind uses impellors to increase atmospheres. Since the Hyper Charger has no way to pack more air IN, it isn't anny sort of charger.

All it has going for it is that it is a bigger free flowing air chamber that holds a big free flwing air filter.

The 2 flappers are totally moot, and IMO just get in the way of proper air flow. Now i think they look good, but not more than 200 bucks worth of look good, for no more power gain than a Cadd, or Coyotte kit, and or any other aftermarket kit.

The hyper charger isn't even a ram air set up, and neither is the front facing aftermarket rigs with a K&N filter foremost, because the filter prevents the effect, which isn't much any way.

The best over all set up for Vulcans with a diapham spring clutch is just this far. A turbo and or super charger would just eat the clutch, an you would loose any gain.

For the very fastest Nomad, getting the intake, an cams from a meanie combined with all the above would be the fastest machine possible, and adding a big bore kit to that.

That will make short work of the clutch spring though. Anyone considering that, should consider having lots of the springs on hand.

[macmac]

ISC's:

IMO these are in ther way of proper free flowing air, and should be removed totally. The wiring should be double taped, and nylocked out of the way.

It is true start up from cold will have a different character, which may force the use of the so called choke knob, or you to hold so throttle for a few moments.

Air Filter Backing Plates:

It depends on what is done as to what you need to do.

IF you choose to use the Caddman set up the left side filter is pretty much for show, and the air mouth on the left side backing plate is removed and blocked off with sheet metal of your choice. The rubber mouth is inside the filtered area.

ALL the air supplied comes from the right side filter, so the left side is for a ballanced look.

The Coyotte Kit is a like kit on the right side only, and then the opening on the right side backing plate, where the cross over tube was, must be blocked off with sheet metal, since the area is with in the filter ring. The right side also needs a few other openings blocked off.

Getting the gas tank off:

I forget the order for the 1500 series, but it isn't much different from the 1600's.

Prepare a clean place, and set up a work bench with rags to set the tank on.

Remove the seats
I forget what the rear seat set up is on a 1500, but it takes a 10mm socket on 2 bolts to remove the main seat.

The 1600 uses a 8mm socket and there is one bolt per seat.

Remove the nacell with a 5mm allen (3) bolts
Remove the instrument wiring at 2 connectors
Remove the speedo head, and set it down level in a safe place (2) 10mm bolts

Remove the (3) 12mm tank bolts

Remove the right front water drain hose from the rt ft lower tank

Remove the fuel line by pinching the gray plastic clips, and push pull the fitting. (This is easiest down when the left side backing plate is off.)

it is optional to lift the tank with the drain hose on the left rear on the tank, or not, as it is just grouped with the res of the drain hoses which show near the oil filter.

Be sure the wiring is clear at the left rear tank corner and lift the tank up and back, and you own it.

Note: bolt sizes are wrench sizes you will need. A 10mm cap on a bolt more or less makes it a 6 mm bolt.

TFI:
After the above remove the tool kit cover with your key.

What happens next depends on the TFI, as solder, and or plug and play.

[dogdoc]

Just wanted to add that the TFI wont help when you disconnect the ICS as far as cold starts. it will still die first cold start and idle rough even though you have the TFI dailed in correctly. As mac said you have 3 choices, pull out choke knob every cold start, hold throttle open manually or set your throttle locker on. its sort of a pain since im used to easy cold starts. Small price to pay I suppose for silence. :-)

[macmac]

That is sure true Doc. Last night it was cold here, and clearing my garden late this afternoon I found ice in coffee cans i use as pails partly full of water.

I had to start my bike, to move a log splitter, and as always it went Boom! and ran a bit ragged, while i held some minor throttle.

I had hoped to go for a short Fall ride, but too many chores ended that idea. Maybe tomorrow, after i tip over a mess of trees along side the drive way.

[billmac]

Originally Posted by Nightrider

Bill. No need to completely remove the tank. Just loosen up the front bolt and remove the two lower bolts then prop the tank up with a 2x4 or 1x6.

Bob T

Thanks Bob. I will give it a try. Guess I could ask Cheryl to hold the tank up while I work.

[chainsaw]

Bill, let me know what Cheryl answered.

[macmac]

On a 1600 Nomad there is 10 bolts counting the 2 holding the seats, 2 hoses, 1 fuel line, and 2 wiring connectors to deal with.

You need a ratchet, a short extention, a 5 mm allen, 8 mm socket, 10 mm socket, and a 12 mm socket.

You may need needle nose pliers for the 2 tubing pinch clamps. For the fuel line you need NO tools and should use no tools.

The hardest part to get off are the wiring connectors under the nacell. Each connector has 2 tabs. One tab holds the connector halves together, and the other tab holds the connecter to tangs on the speedo frame.

Once you remove the tank one time, anyother time shouldn't take more than 15 minutes.

[bobzinger]

Doc have you removed your plugs to see if you're running rich...has your mileage gone down much. Your settings are much higher than mine. 1:30, 2:30, 0, 9:00. Just wondering. I set pot one via high idle and best RPM method. Pot 2 has been hit or miss for me.
You said techlusion recommended your settings...so I may try them.

[dogdoc]

no i havent checked plugs yet, havent driven it enough to make it worth checking, CQ also rec'd those settings, so I will see what happens, doesnt smell rich or look sooty on exhaust while idling. let me know what you think. I was planning on backing down pot 1 as time goes on.

Doc

[rickyboy]

Thanks to everyone for their advice and help.
I have read up on "the caddmann kit" on Gadget's site. and I've ordered 2 of the K& N kits with the chrome cover, filter, and backing plate from a local place here in Langley. Online and anywhere else I looked, the kits were from $75.00 to $95.00 plus tax's U.S.. I got a cost price of $63.00 plus tax, Canadian. The bike is off the road for the winter now so I'll get at it as soon as the kits come in. I'll be ordering the TFI real soon as well. I like this time of the yr.. I do my best shopping. ;)

[dkdixie]

Originally Posted by rickyboy ... #00722

Thanks to everyone for their advice and help.
I have read up on "the caddmann kit" on Gadget's site. and I've ordered 2 of the K& N kits with the chrome cover, filter, and backing plate from a local place here in Langley. Online and anywhere else I looked, the kits were from $75.00 to $95.00 plus tax's U.S.. I got a cost price of $63.00 plus tax, Canadian. The bike is off the road for the winter now so I'll get at it as soon as the kits come in. I'll be ordering the TFI real soon as well. I like this time of the yr.. I do my best shopping. ;)

What are you planning to use for right side backing plate?

[billmac]

Originally Posted by macmac

On a 1600 Nomad there is 10 bolts counting the 2 holding the seats, 2 hoses, 1 fuel line, and 2 wiring connectors to deal with.

You need a ratchet, a short extention, a 5 mm allen, 8 mm socket, 10 mm socket, and a 12 mm socket.

You may need needle nose pliers for the 2 tubing pinch clamps. For the fuel line you need NO tools and should use no tools.

The hardest part to get off are the wiring connectors under the nacell. Each connector has 2 tabs. One tab holds the connector halves together, and the other tab holds the connecter to tangs on the speedo frame.

Once you remove the tank one time, anyother time shouldn't take more than 15 minutes.

Thanks macmac for the detailed description for the tank removal. I am going to print a copy for my records.

[macmac]

BillMac,

I wasn't sure you saw the step by step post in my clutter, so here is just that part again. Also I made a few typos, which are corrected.

Getting the gas tank off:

I forget the order for the 1500 series, but it isn't much different from the 1600's.

Prepare a clean place, and set up a work bench with rags to set the tank on.

Remove the seats
I forget what the rear seat set up is on a 1500, but it takes a 10mm socket on 2 bolts to remove the main seat.

The 1600 uses a 8mm socket and there is one bolt per seat.

Remove the nacell with a 5mm allen (3) bolts
Remove the instrument wiring at 2 connectors
Remove the speedo head, and set it down level in a safe place (2) 10mm bolts

Remove the (3) 12mm tank bolts

Remove the right front water drain hose from the rt ft lower tank

Remove the fuel line by pinching the gray plastic clips, and push pull the fitting. (This is easiest done when the left side air filter backing plate is off.)

It is optional to lift the tank with the drain hose on the right rear of the tank, or not, as it is just grouped with the rest of the drain hoses which show near the oil filter.

Be sure the wiring is clear at the left rear tank corner and lift the tank up and back, and you own it.

Note: My bolt sizes are wrench sizes you will need. A 10mm cap on a bolt more or less makes it a 6 mm bolt.

Tools needed are a 1/4" or 3/8" drive ratchet, a short extention 3 to 6", a 5 mm allen (Stanly at walley world in sockets seem nice)

8mm socket, 10 mm socket, 12 mm socket, rags, maybe needle nose pliers.

Items to have on hand: Electrical tape, touch up paint (black) or fingernail polish (clear), silicon spray (to mist just inside the 2 small drain hoses so next time they don't stick)

Warning: Do not allow the fuel pump connector on the tank side to get dirty!