Help with new 1999 Nomad

[mick56]

Originally Posted by minst7877

You can just pull the right side cover. But to do that you have to drop the right side footboard and brake pedal then remove the frame section to get the cover off. Once you get the cover off you can see the oil gear behind the front of the clutch basket.

DC


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Its a 2 &1/2inch diameter white plastic cog,you cant miss it.

[gleam]

Originally Posted by minst7877

You can just pull the right side cover....

Okay great, thanks. I'll do that once it's back on its feet.

Originally Posted by mick56

Its a 2 &1/2inch diameter white plastic cog,you cant miss it.

I was picturing something much smaller, that helps. I'm hoping there's no plastic to be found in there.

Header
After having problems with a local shop, I got my header back from repair by someone else. Here's a picture of what it looks like. I asked them to fix the crack and add a reinforcing layer over top (a 'patch') and to do whatever was necessary to make sure it didn't crack again, and to not worry about how it looks becuase it'll be covered. The crack on it was all the way around right in the middle of that patch there. I was told the patch was stainless steel. The seam was welded and then this patch was welded all around. Looks pretty good to me but I really don't know anything about welding. What do you guys think? If any of the many people that have had their head pipes repaired, does it look like this?

The crack gave me the opportunity to put on a new flange because the original was bent pretty badly. The order from V&H came pretty quickly for those. I suppose if they had these head pipes sitting on a shelf they'd have to admit there was a problem, eh?

Other
As a general update, I'm working on bringing the paint back on the saddlebags and fenders. My next post will be about that. I'm still not fully recovered so everything takes me about twice as long to do it seems, but it's all coming along nicely now. Mostly now it's just waiting on parts and getting the work done.

[minst7877]

That's the correct fix for the crack. Just make sure when reinstalling to get everything lined up before tightening anything down.

DC

Ps be very vigilant when removing the bolts from the clutch cover as there are several different lengths. They need to go back in the right holes


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[gleam]

Originally Posted by minst7877

That's the correct fix for the crack. Just make sure when reinstalling to get everything lined up before tightening anything down.

DC

Ps be very vigilant when removing the bolts from the clutch cover as there are several different lengths. They need to go back in the right holes


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Okay good to hear, thanks. Which order is the correct way to torque things down? I saw it in a post but I can't find it again. I believe it said for final torquing to do the head first, then the brackets. Or was the other way around? For the clutch cover I'll be sure to get them in the right order by using a template on cardboard with holes in it for the bolts.

Engine
I don't remember taking anything out of the threads here, does anyone know what is supposed to be here? There's nothing on the diagram so it must be on another page and I can't find it. The threads are corroded so it looks like it's been open for a while. It just looks like a boss with threads for mounting something, and poking into it with that ziptie there bottoms out so it doesn't seem to go anywhere. The ziptie is cut short, by the way, it's not that deep of a hole.

[Beetrucker]

I would do the clutch and spring while you have the cover off. I got a Barnett kit from EBay for $180, it has everything including the gasket and got to me very fast. The spring is nice and heavy, it will no longer slip when down shifting so the rear will slide if you don't hit it right. If you don't have an air impact you will need a penny in the gears and a 4 foot cheater bar. I am a big boy and it was all I could do to brake that clutch nut loose with a big cheater.

[minst7877]

Originally Posted by gleam

Engine
I don't remember taking anything out of the threads here, does anyone know what is supposed to be here? There's nothing on the diagram so it must be on another page and I can't find it. The threads are corroded so it looks like it's been open for a while. It just looks like a boss with threads for mounting something, and poking into it with that ziptie there bottoms out so it doesn't seem to go anywhere. The ziptie is cut short, by the way, it's not that deep of a hole.

Looked at my motor tonight and I have the same empty boss. Have know idea why it is there. I have not removed anything from there. These engine cases are the same for all the models so it was probably necessary for some model.

DC




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[skiman]

Originally Posted by gleam

Okay great, thanks. I'll do that once it's back on its feet.



I was picturing something much smaller, that helps. I'm hoping there's no plastic to be found in there.

Header
After having problems with a local shop, I got my header back from repair by someone else. Here's a picture of what it looks like. I asked them to fix the crack and add a reinforcing layer over top (a 'patch') and to do whatever was necessary to make sure it didn't crack again, and to not worry about how it looks becuase it'll be covered. The crack on it was all the way around right in the middle of that patch there. I was told the patch was stainless steel. The seam was welded and then this patch was welded all around. Looks pretty good to me but I really don't know anything about welding. What do you guys think? If any of the many people that have had their head pipes repaired, does it look like this?

The crack gave me the opportunity to put on a new flange because the original was bent pretty badly. The order from V&H came pretty quickly for those. I suppose if they had these head pipes sitting on a shelf they'd have to admit there was a problem, eh?

Other
As a general update, I'm working on bringing the paint back on the saddlebags and fenders. My next post will be about that. I'm still not fully recovered so everything takes me about twice as long to do it seems, but it's all coming along nicely now. Mostly now it's just waiting on parts and getting the work done.

Make sure to put a stainless steel washer behind the acorn nut it will bottom out before it's tight

[gleam]

Originally Posted by skiman

Make sure to put a stainless steel washer behind the acorn nut it will bottom out before it's tight

Well that would explain why I found washers on there. I'll be sure to do that.

Originally Posted by Beetrucker

I would do the clutch and spring...

That sounds like a good idea that I'll have to think about. I'm way over budget with this now, in both time and money so that will probably have to wait until the off-season unless it's really bad. Would hate to buy yet another gasket but if it's only 6 months old I figure it might be re-usable.

Originally Posted by minst7877

Looked at my motor tonight and I have the same empty boss. ...

This is a great example of why forums are so helpful. Thank you, that's another thing off my mind that doesn't need to take up any more of my time. I could've spent hours trying to track that down.

Electrical
Started in on the wiring, so of course the first thing I did was cleaned up the ground connection to the engine. On the Virago people were adding a second ground from the battery to the frame, is that necessary with the Nomad? I haven't come across anything about that yet so probably not.

I'm removing the light bar and going back to the stock setup for the turn signals. The PO said the dealer did it, and whoever did it, didn't spend a lot of time doing a nice job of it. There's a line T'd off from the blue wire on the left signal's pigtail, and I'll be tracking that down in my notes and pictures to see where that went. Looks like I'll be able to just return the T to a straight wire and that should do it.

My question is about the picture below. When I pulled the tank, there was tape missing from the harness right there in the middle under the tank, so I figured it had to do with this light bar since that was the only thing that was altered afaik. I also saw what I thought was blue electrical tape, but now it seems to be big sheets of electrical tape, so maybe it's factory. This crimp-splice here, is that factory or did the dealer do that for the lights you think? I thought I was going to be doing another repair here but now I don't think so anymore. The tape that was left was new and clearly different than the original, so something might've been done here. Does anyone have any ideas about what this might be about? I've only just begun to look into this, but it would be very helpful if someone knew if that crimp-on connector splice is something the factory would do or not.

Thanks again for all the help, it's coming along nicely now.

[skiman]

You want to add a ground from the headlight bucket to frame. It been noted that the ground path for the forks is through steering head bearings.

[mick56]

Originally Posted by skiman

You want to add a ground from the headlight bucket to frame. It been noted that the ground path for the forks is through steering head bearings.

What effect is that going to have,is the grease on the bearings acting as a barrier. ?

[skiman]

No, it's the bearings that are subject to arcing/pitting as current passes through them. I noticed the problem when installing my aux lamps, all the stock lights run there own grounds back to the frame. If I had grounded the aux lamps to the light bar on the forks the ground path would have been through the bearings.

[minst7877]

Originally Posted by mick56

What effect is that going to have,is the grease on the bearings acting as a barrier. ?

The factory is very stingy with grease and most have felt that the ground thru the bearings has contributed to the pitting of the bearings.

DC


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[mick56]

Originally Posted by minst7877

The factory is very stingy with grease and most have felt that the ground thru the bearings has contributed to the pitting of the bearings.

DC


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Mine were replaced with tapered bearings,and packed with loads of grease.So hopefully that should'nt be an issue.

[skiman]

It's only an issue if you have aftermarket electrical devices the are grounded to any part of the forks, if your bike is all stock there's no problem.

[gleam]

Electrical

The thing in my previous post seems to be factory to me now. It heads off to the ignition switch. I ended up retaping the entire harness, which was a lot more work than I figured when I got into it, but I'm glad I did it. I found a couple problem spots, and once I got the hang of the actual taping, it all looks much nicer and works better to keep water out. I may post about my experience of getting into retaping a harness for the first time and how that all went. I underestimated the time for the job by quite a lot. That said, I now know all the ins and outs of that harness and fixed some problems as I said, so definitely worth the time.

My post today is to ask if anyone recognizes the tiny gasket in the picture. I'm usually pretty good about keeping track of things, but I didn't tag this and I'm not sure where it goes. Can't find that shape anywhere. It's made of thin o-ring type material and probably comes from the electrical system or battery box area.

That's good to know about the ground path. I removed the light bar and went back to stock signal mounts so if I'm reading you right I don't need to do this. I appreciate learning these quirks that might not be written down anywhere, thank you.

As far as progress things are starting to look up now. I'm putting parts on the bike instead of taking them off. A proper update is coming, just hoping someone knows about this gasket for now.