No more coolant

[eg78]

Thanks Norm, will do... I'll report back if it's empty at the end of week...Cheers!

[eg78]

Originally Posted by OldSchool

There is a bleeder nipple right in front of the radiator cap. Just like one for the brakes. Top off the coolant turn the bike on and loosen the bleeder cap. You will here it purge itself of air. Once you have steady coolant coming out, retighten the bleeder. You should be good to go.

How can I turn the bike on with the tank off?

[OldSchool]

Put the tank back on and have it ready to go just like normal.

[OldSchool]

You want the system complete and filled before you bleed it. I did check and yes the 1600 is supposed to have the bleeder valve in the front of the cap.

[eg78]

OK thanks OS

[cnc]

Just to be clear as posts overlap, my post that said no, was for your question about torquing the cap not about bleeding the system. It would have been best if you had filled the system at the cap and bleed it once you took the cap off and found it dry.

[eg78]

Got it, I'll probably bleed it this week, thanks

[eg78]

I think method 1 allows me to get rid of the air without starting the engine.
http://vulcangadgets.com/files/coola...ent_howto.html

[eg78]

Just went for a 50KM run and the level seems a bit low (the engine is is hot). I expect it to get much lower as the bike cools off. Not looking great...

Do you think bleeding the system is going to help, or does this seem like a leak (or something else) ?

Picture attached with a very hot engine

[mick56]

Originally Posted by eg78

How can I turn the bike on with the tank off?

You dont need to take the tank off,just the chrome speedo housing will give you enough room to get the cap off.Disconnect the speedo cable from the front wheel to give enough slack to move.

[eg78]

Ahhhhhh great Mick, cheers!

[OldSchool]

Originally Posted by eg78

Just went for a 50KM run and the level seems a bit low (the engine is is hot). I expect it to get much lower as the bike cools off. Not looking great...

Do you think bleeding the system is going to help, or does this seem like a leak (or something else) ?

Picture attached with a very hot engine

For the amount of coolant you are losing if you had a leak you would be showing signs. Heavy antifreeze smell, puddles, wetness, increased oil level, something. The other way you lose coolant is evaporation of the water from the coolant itself. As I said before the fan comes on at 212 degrees (F) (Make sure the fan is coming on before your red light does). Mixing coolant and water increases the boiling point of water, but water evaporation can start occurring anytime after about 250 degrees (F). Which means the if your engine is running only 38 degrees (F) higher you can start to lose coolant level. If no external leak then the main causes of running hot. Air in system, bad fan sensor, bad radiator cap, bad thermostat, bad water pump.

P.S. At this point it probably wouldn't hurt for you to completely flush the system. I use a vinegar and water mix but you can also buy a commercial radiator flush if you like. I run a hose through the radiator until system runs totally clear before re-filling.

[eg78]

About 1.5 hours since I got back, and the level hasn't moved at all, that's promising. Will check again in a few hrs, if it's at the same place, I may just be golden. Will probably still bleed the rad this week regardless. I'll keep you guys posted, thanks for all the tips!

[eg78]

P.S. At this point it probably wouldn't hurt for you to completely flush the system. I use a vinegar and water mix but you can also buy a commercial radiator flush if you like. I run a hose through the radiator until system runs totally clear before re-filling.

I am going to do that, thanks !!

[eg78]

Tank is still at the same level as 4 hrs ago when it was hot. Thats good right ?