Starts, dies.

[ctrider]

I bought a battery at batteries plus last Sept, rode until thanksgiving then put it away for the winter on the tender. Tried to start it in march and one cell had gone bad. They did replace the battery. Glad I bought it local.

[wanderer5210]

Most MC batteries are only warranted 3 months to a year. I know many last longer I'm just sayin'. But if it was running and then dying it's not the battery.

[macmac]

It starts and runs but quits right off fast right? What happens when if it starts and runs you increase throttle for more RMP? Does it still just stall? What happens if you mist gas into the throttle body KEY OFF but throttle plates wide open so fuel goes past that point? (Be careful ) Will it start and rev up then stall? Try WD-40 spray too.

And still you don't seem to have checked any vac lines or capped off ports. There is 2 ports on the top of the throttle body I think and if there is after market right side air filter on there there are 2 ports on the intake manifold that used to feed the ISC's.

Lots of guys still using the stock backing plate or a aftermarket backing plate that was drill for the steep tubes capped these off. These steel tubes go to rubber tubes back to steel tubes and back again to rubber to the intake manifold.

I have read other guys pinch the fuel line somehow, getting the tank off and back on they crush it...... I have no idea how they do but they do. Just firing injectors doesn't wet the plugs either. The injectors are behind the intake valves. There is no way to know with the engine off if a intake valve is open or not.

There is no 5th injector, a bad term here because a 5th injector on these bikes would be a 3rd injector. The terms comes from 4 cly cars that ran D jet which this is.

With gas in the tank the fuel line should not dribble gas. With gas in the tank and if you forget to hook up the fuel line and hit the key to ON then you will get a blast of fuel for sure. if you do that again have a container handy and have it clear and clean so you can see if you in fact have bad watered gas.

I don't like 9 dcv right off quick if you just turn the switch to ON. Does the trip meter and clock reset?

I expect a voltage drop but not to 9 dcv. With the Key ON you should have the fuel pump fire off and stop the ECU is ON the coils are on, assorted small lamps are on, but just like that I should think your battery would read real high 11 dcv for a good long time at least 5 minutes.

Are the reed valves still on the bike? Could it be this bike is or was a cali model? if so it had a carbon canister and so more vac line than for the rest of the bikes?

[Puddlejumper]

Thanks for all the replys. Yes, did take ECU and fuel pump to Ross's, his bike ran fine with my ECU, we checked fuel pump motor, and check for clogged filter as best as we could, can't tear all the way down. Have not checked injectors because prior to Mon. when started bike it starts and runs for about 5 to 7 seconds and dies, so I would not suspect clogged injectors. Mac, it is not a cali bike, and it is completely stock as far as fuel injection and air cleaner systems are concerned. I had just forgot to connect the fuel line when tank was put back on. When gas was running out of the fuel pump, the key had not been turned on, and if my memory serves me correctly, I never had this happen before in the 4 or 5 times I have removed the tank trying to solve this problem. I know fuel will shoot out when key is turned on, as pump cycles pushing gas to injectors for start up. I possibly did not have enough voltage to activate the injectors for bike to start. I presently have the battery out charging it at 2 amps., will reinstall tonight or tomorrow and give it another try. Thanks to all for the help.

[macmac]

When the battery is installed don't install the seat. In stead hook up a volt meter on the battery.

It would be real wise to pull the gas tank for 1, to make sure the fuel line doesn't dribble gas, because it is does something is is wrong between the pump and the end of the fuel line. A drop maybe 2 is IT with the key switch OFF.

and 2 to check the vac line at the vac pod that runs the reed valves. The smaller tubing there IS a vac line. You want to check that over well. Then follow it to it's source of vacuum on the throttle body. If you are standing on the left of the bike getting ready to throw a leg over, LOOK to the right of that vac line on the TB, and there IS another vac port. It might be capped off, or it might have a vac line. If it is capped check the cap for tight. by pulling on it Checking these lines/tubings is not just a visual test. Then check the other end. The fact it runs a few secs says all over it massive vac leak.

3 with an all stock intake setup I assume you still have working ISC's (idle solenoids in the right side as seated dog bowl. Check the rubber tubing there on both, pull the backing plate and check the steel to rubber, again steel to rubber, again rubber to intake manifold.

4 if ll looks well turn the switch ON take a reading on the volt meter and let it sit that was 30 seconds easy..... the meter may lower slowly and stop (I hope) Let it stop.

report that reading with TIME. Next don't crank but blip the start button to get the head lamp ON, watch that meter a good long 30 secs more and report volts and time. These are both load tests for the battery.

Shut off the switch and leave it be for 15 min. Now what does the battery say? This is real battery volts and what ever it recovered to by itself. A good battery will recover to 12.6 / 12.8 dcv.

5 add a bit of fuel if you dare and deem the area safe for a flash of fire / flame. Crank the engine and see if it runs a sec or so.

[trosco]

Roger, I should have sent my spare pump home with you. Had you put that one in and seen if that solves your problem. It is possible (unlikely but possible) that the regulator on your pump is bad but you still have flow but is just providing a unacceptable amount of pressure. Sure seemed robust though when we had it apart.
It is possible, after you have had the internal pump/filter/regulator assembly apart to hook the wires up backwards as, though they are color coded, the colors are quite similar but they are also different shape/size and it's difficult to do it wrong. The motor would still run (as you saw when we were messing with it) just backwards as it is a DC motor. If it ran backwards you would still hear it cycle but with key on it would never stop as it would never build the required pressure to stop.
We should have put you pump in my bike while you were down here. We can still do that if you want?

[ppgflyer]

Hey Roger, glad to see you are back, just one question, is the ECU still throwing the vehicle down sensor error code 31 ?

[Puddlejumper]

Thanks Ross, still might try to meet you somewhere and pick up your pump and try it before I take it to the dealership and let them check it out. When are you planning to come to Murray's Mill in Catawaba? I appreciate the offer, and give me a call or pm me. Greg, no I have not pulled to codes again, but I might do that to see what they are now and if I am still getting a code. Thanks guys.

[trosco]

Roger, there is a chance it will be the coming Sunday. That's the 18th. I will know better on Friday. Let you know.Ross

[Puddlejumper]

OK, thanks Ross. If it is Sunday after 1:00 or 1:30, can probably ride down and meet you and make it back home before evening church services. Just let me know.

[Idaho]

Update. Puddlejumper answered a PM that I sent him today with this reply:

Sorry it took me so long to reply, had forgotten my login password. (Old age). Yes the bike has been fixed. Turned out to be the charging system. I was getting a bad trouble code, which had me running other things. One of the stators and both regulators were bad. Had fixed and bike has been sold.

I decided to post it because so many of us were following this and wanted to know what the problem was. Now we know.