Wont fire

[Bamabrat]

Its fired with chemtool both times before when I've had this problem. Pretty sure I will get same results this time, but will keep you in the loop. Thanks again for your help.

[muz]

The key here has to be the fact that the bike has not actually stopped on you just that it won't start after you stop it, correct??


Is there any accessory attached to the coils that should not be there or electrically attached anywhere else for that matter? If so try and get the bike back to electrically original as possible and have another go at starting it. If there is an accessory drawing power from the ignition circuit, that could give you all sorts of grief.

Just wondering if there is a start resistor somwhere on the bike. Just trying to download the 1500 manual to have a look.
Can't download the manual, don't know why yet.

Try flicking the stop switch a few times then see if it starts. On the 1600 it is connected to the coils.

[vulcanscott]

Good point ! Aftermarket Tach ? Alarm or Kill Switch.

[Bamabrat]

Originally Posted by muz

The key here has to be the fact that the bike has not actually stopped on you just that it won't start after you stop it, correct??


Is there any accessory attached to the coils that should not be there or electrically attached anywhere else for that matter? If so try and get the bike back to electrically original as possible and have another go at starting it. If there is an accessory drawing power from the ignition circuit, that could give you all sorts of grief.

Just wondering if there is a start resistor somwhere on the bike. Just trying to download the 1500 manual to have a look.
Can't download the manual, don't know why yet.

Try flicking the stop switch a few times then see if it starts. On the 1600 it is connected to the coils.

Now we ate getting somewhere. This is what has worried me, but since I was sure it was fuel related, haven't bothered with it. Installed an accessory fuse panel a while back. The only thing that isn't going to the battery or fuse panel is my panel relay, and 1 terminal (86?) goes to my rear lights. I have driving lights, stereo, aux power outlet, and wired gloves. The negatives go to battery, positives to fuse panel. Actually light bar turn signals go to oem signal wires, but main lights go to fuse panel. . Muz, can you or Scott flyover for the day. ?????

how do I check my plugs and coils? I have a manual voltmeter. For the plugs is this correct: remove my plug and attach wire to end. Put an extra plug in the socket. Place the end of the plug against the block and hit the starter button to look at the arc. Repeat for other 3 plugs. Does it matter what I'm touching while holding the plug/wire? If that's right, what about the coil? How do I check those? step by step pls. I'm electronically challenged

[cnc]

Well it shouldn't be that hard to test this theory since you wired them in. Disconnect all the neg and positive leads plus the trigger wire so what ever you put in is isolated from the bikes original electrical system.
Even if that does not make a difference leave it disconnected till you have sorted this out in case it is something intermittent, it is one less thing to second guess and a good step in the process of elimination.
If you get no change and decide to remove the fuel line and run the pump as I believe Muz suggested to see the flow, go one step further and run it through a coffee filter into your container. If you catch any dirt at all that stuff is going in your fuel bowl and could hold the needle and seat open, plug a jet etc and still allow the accelerator pump to squirt fuel.

[Bamabrat]

Thanks Norm. Do I actually need to disconnect the pos and neg wires or can I just remove the fuses from the aux fuse box?. I cycled the pump last time as well, so I know how to do that. Good idea about the coffee filter. Will do. At in-laws' right now filing taxes.

[Silent Sam]

..It seems these Big Assed Kawks..are electrono-sensitive... I had a pseudo-short circuit..that was in my driving lights hot wire...didnt burn out the 15 amp in-line, fuse..but caused complete intermittant electrical shut down of the entire computerized system...

Check for short's...mine was only a chaffed spot on the wireing insulation..and showed NO BARE WIRE !..but was still shorting to the frame ... GOOD LUCK

[cnc]

Well I suppose you could start with the fuses and see, but consider if there was an issue the ground wires or the main pos wire from the aux box, it wouldn't 't change anything. Better in my mind to eliminate it all out of the equation for now and if it helps, then you can diagnose what part of your work is causing the issue. If it doesn't change, I would still leave it all disconnected till I found the problem. As I said one less possibility.

[cnc]

Oh yeah, I remove all the plugs when checking for spark. you don't want the bike starting on you. No need to have any in although I prefer to try to ground a plug from each cylinder on a bike or two cylinder motor. You are looking for a nice strong blue spark and a crisp snap noise as it jumps. Bear in mind that this is only a seat of the pants test and really only confirms you have decent spark.
Also do hold the lead with a glove or rag, if your leads are leaky you can get a good jolt.
Can't tell you any particulars on testing the coils as I am away and no access to any specs.
I did mention to another fellow who was having damp starting issues in another thread to start the bike at night, move the leads around with an insulated screwdriver and spray a water mist on them with a windex bottle if your leads are bad, you can often see them arcing to ground or the motor stumble when spraying water on them.

[muz]

Yes check the spark as you descibed. You only need to check one on either cylinder. Open up the plug gap on the test plug to twice the normal gap, look for a nice blue spark. And yes remove all 4 plugs.
If you get a nice spark with twice the gap then no need to test the coils.

As for a plugged main jet in the carby well that won't stop the bike from starting if you have a good squirt of fuel coming from the acc pump. You just won't be able to get any revs at all. The whole idea around an accelerator pump is to give the engine some gas when the main jet is not working ie during times when there is not enough airflow over the carby venturi to draw fuel from the main. Ie during start up and when cracking the throttle from idle.

All we are looking for at this stage is some sign of life.
Unlikely you have a short somwhere just something sucking current. Have you disconnected those accessories yet? And have you tried to flip that kill switch a few times to see if it will start.
Time difference between us is making things a bit difficult.
Oh and don't try more than one thing at a time. Diagnosing faults is all about being methodical.

[Silent Sam]

No further comment ! ? hopefully the problem as been located and solved..

As for "time Difference" ...Considering muz -exist's- in tomarrow..and we yanks live in his yesterday...

muz needs to send the lottery results on drawing day...to us here in yesterday !

[Bamabrat]

Sam,
My bike is running great right now, but that's the problem with intermittent issues...works fine then 5 mins later could break down. I did a few things...lowered float level, and fully charged the battery while all accessories were disconnected. Vulcanscott was really helpful and told me to roll the throttle 3 times, then pull choke, then hit starter button, then increase fast idle screw. I've done this each time and haven't had any problem starting it...no pre ignition pops. It struggled yesterday after work to stay cranked without the choke but had been outside all day and it was 38 degrees. Still didn't pop though. Other than replacing the drain screw has been great

[Silent Sam]

38 degrees...even an old school muscle car..carb engineered for the day...would be a bit reluctant to fire right up when its that chilly...

Good luck on keeping it starting in cold weather...use some Sea Foam in the fuel tank..and hopefully it will run just fine in warmer weather !

(my 02 nomad 1500fi wont start at temps lower than about 55 degrees)..but I'm old -frost bit..heat stroked..crippled up, and dont try to ride in the cold...

[Bamabrat]

Originally Posted by Silent Sam

38 degrees...even an old school muscle car..carb engineered for the day...would be a bit reluctant to fire right up when its that chilly...

Good luck on keeping it starting in cold weather...use some Sea Foam in the fuel tank..and hopefully it will run just fine in warmer weather !

(my 02 nomad 1500fi wont start at temps lower than about 55 degrees)..but I'm old -frost bit..heat stroked..crippled up, and dont try to ride in the cold...

We've had a few 65+ degree days and it fires up quickly without using the choke. Maybe its fine now (any and all prayers solicited and much appreciated :):thumbup:)

[kmaysob]

Originally Posted by Silent Sam

38 degrees...even an old school muscle car..carb engineered for the day...would be a bit reluctant to fire right up when its that chilly...

Good luck on keeping it starting in cold weather...use some Sea Foam in the fuel tank..and hopefully it will run just fine in warmer weather !

(my 02 nomad 1500fi wont start at temps lower than about 55 degrees)..but I'm old -frost bit..heat stroked..crippled up, and dont try to ride in the cold...

mine has had zero issues firing in cold weather.