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Old 06-01-2017, 05:41 PM   #1
voyager   voyager is offline
 
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Pre rally maintenance

Been putting it off but have to replace my clutch spring, change oil and replace the rear tire. So I might as well remove the swing arm and drive shaft and check those areas as well. Oh well, there goes a weekend.
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Old 06-01-2017, 06:12 PM   #2
Iamriding   Iamriding is offline
 
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But a great investment in piece of mind.
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Old 06-01-2017, 11:54 PM   #3
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Hope he has peace of mind and not a piece of mind...
 
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Old 06-02-2017, 03:51 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by voyager View Post
Been putting it off but have to replace my clutch spring, change oil and replace the rear tire. So I might as well remove the swing arm and drive shaft and check those areas as well. Oh well, there goes a weekend.
These will give you a warm and fuzzy feeling knowing after they are done that you'll have a nice long while before you have to worry about them again....
These things are as dependable as a ballpeen hammer after you check them out thoroughly, they are some of the most dependable bikes out there. They're made for the long haul!
Vibs at speed in 4th gear can be what SR said....not to mention wheel bearings, tire going bad, etc. If your bike has never had it done, get a set of allballs rear wheel bearing kits, comes with the bearings/seals, when you replace your rear tire, its only about 30 minutes more for the new bearings to be installed....
I replace mine about every 35-40,000 miles....they're cheap, easy to replace. They aren't HD tapered temkin auto rearend bearings....they take a good pounding, especially if you put alot of miles on your bike.
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Old 06-02-2017, 11:52 AM   #5
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I'm neck deep in maintenance for the rally, too. Changed the steering stem bearings to All Balls tapered and changed the fork oil to a heavier weight (15) oil. Checked all the run outs for the rims, disks, and front axle. Measured the disks and deglazed them. I got new bearings for the wheels, but I think the old ones in front are fine, so I will hold put off changing them for now. Gotta rebuild the front calipers; the pistons are moving like they should.

After that, coolant flush, hose and o-rings to be replaced, and new coolant. Then I'll tackle the rear end - check pulleys, swing arm bearing, wheel bearings, etc.



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Old 06-02-2017, 05:24 PM   #6
Kennyg   Kennyg is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DragonLady58 View Post
These will give you a warm and fuzzy feeling knowing after they are done that you'll have a nice long while before you have to worry about them again....
These things are as dependable as a ballpeen hammer after you check them out thoroughly, they are some of the most dependable bikes out there. They're made for the long haul!
Vibs at speed in 4th gear can be what SR said....not to mention wheel bearings, tire going bad, etc. If your bike has never had it done, get a set of allballs rear wheel bearing kits, comes with the bearings/seals, when you replace your rear tire, its only about 30 minutes more for the new bearings to be installed....
I replace mine about every 35-40,000 miles....they're cheap, easy to replace. They aren't HD tapered temkin auto rearend bearings....they take a good pounding, especially if you put alot of miles on your bike.
Vibe at speed in 4th gear... Caused by what?

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Old 06-04-2017, 01:03 AM   #7
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Well, as per normal, what starts as a planned job turns sideways. Took the back end all apart right down to the swim arm removal and found my final drive leaking at the pinion seal. Not a lot, but enough to warrant addressing now or face a major leak at the worst time. Rear tire and hub assembly ready to go to the shop to have the rubber re and re and balanced. Now, have to order seals and o-rings to reassemble my final drive. Once that's done, then off the stand and onto the kick stand so I can do my clutch. Oh well......
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Old 06-11-2017, 11:38 PM   #8
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So, not only did I find my pinion seal leaking, once I got that repaired and ready to reinstall, I remounted the swing arm and found my side to side play was way to excessive for my liking. At least .150" so now I have to shim it up. Just a reminder for those doing the same type of maintenance, check you side play on your swing arm, it's a real weak spot on these bikes and poorly designed.
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Old 06-12-2017, 01:37 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by voyager View Post
So, not only did I find my pinion seal leaking, once I got that repaired and ready to reinstall, I remounted the swing arm and found my side to side play was way to excessive for my liking. At least .150" so now I have to shim it up. Just a reminder for those doing the same type of maintenance, check you side play on your swing arm, it's a real weak spot on these bikes and poorly designed.
I'm going to change out the rear wheel bearings and the swing arm bearings soon. The belt tension was not aligned correctly (new tire put on when I bought the bike) and run that way until I replaced the rear tire. I'm worried about excessive wear on those bearings as a result.

Anyway, my questions are - could your play be caused by worn bearings, and how much play is OK? I don't see anything in the manual about testing or limits for side to side play and I assume the there is no push/pull play or you would have concluded that the bearings are bad. I'm guessing that you would put a washer on the outside of collar on the left side as a shim.
 
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Old 06-12-2017, 01:44 PM   #10
Sabre-t   Sabre-t is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by voyager View Post
Well, as per normal, what starts as a planned job turns sideways. Took the back end all apart right down to the swim arm removal and found my final drive leaking at the pinion seal. Not a lot, but enough to warrant addressing now or face a major leak at the worst time. Rear tire and hub assembly ready to go to the shop to have the rubber re and re and balanced. Now, have to order seals and o-rings to reassemble my final drive. Once that's done, then off the stand and onto the kick stand so I can do my clutch. Oh well......
My pre-trip maintenance has been sidetracked a couple of times, too . Had to rebuild the front calipers due to sticking pistons and I went ahead and ordered a kit for the back caliper, too. Had a hard time finding a 36 mm socket for changing the stem bearing and had to make a tool to torque down the indexed stem nut. Forgot to order seals for the banjo bolts (big DUH! ) so had to wait for those as the dealer doesn't stock them.

That's just for the front end. I still have to do the rear and the cooling system . Good thing the rally isn't until later in July!
 
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Old 06-12-2017, 03:41 PM   #11
voyager   voyager is offline
 
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swing arm side play

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sabre-t View Post
I'm going to change out the rear wheel bearings and the swing arm bearings soon. The belt tension was not aligned correctly (new tire put on when I bought the bike) and run that way until I replaced the rear tire. I'm worried about excessive wear on those bearings as a result.

Anyway, my questions are - could your play be caused by worn bearings, and how much play is OK? I don't see anything in the manual about testing or limits for side to side play and I assume the there is no push/pull play or you would have concluded that the bearings are bad. I'm guessing that you would put a washer on the outside of collar on the left side as a shim.

Correct, there is no spec from Kawi on the side to side play in the swing arm. The needle bearings only deal with the up and down motion as the swing arm travels with the tire and road. The side to side is directly controlled by the width of the frame tube and the yolk on the swing arm along with the grease seals installed on either end. Problem is that the grease seals being used as thrust washers is a bad idea and they wear out quickly. No swing arm should have any side to side play ( only a few thousands of an inch to allow free travel ) I will shim up the gap but with equal amounts on both sides to keep the swing arm in alignment.
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Old 06-12-2017, 06:01 PM   #12
Sabre-t   Sabre-t is offline
 
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Correct, there is no spec from Kawi on the side to side play in the swing arm. The needle bearings only deal with the up and down motion as the swing arm travels with the tire and road. The side to side is directly controlled by the width of the frame tube and the yolk on the swing arm along with the grease seals installed on either end. Problem is that the grease seals being used as thrust washers is a bad idea and they wear out quickly. No swing arm should have any side to side play ( only a few thousands of an inch to allow free travel ) I will shim up the gap but with equal amounts on both sides to keep the swing arm in alignment.
Thanks! What is a good material to use for a shim, should I need it. From what you said, I shouldn't with new seals, but...
 
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Old 06-13-2017, 08:16 AM   #13
4b316   4b316 is offline
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I,m going to put gas in mine
 
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Old 06-13-2017, 01:45 PM   #14
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Use steel shims if possible. With new grease seals you'll still have side to side play. New from factory there is still too much play in my opinion.
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Old 06-19-2017, 02:39 PM   #15
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Job completed. Very pleased with shimming the side slop on my swing arm. Slipped in .030" steel shims on either side of the yolk and now only have .003" side play. Put the back end back together, final drive resealed, u-joint inspected, changed the boot, installed new rear tire, cleaned out K&H filter, then took the clutch apart to change out my main spring. Took her for quick ride to heat things up, checked for leaks and all is good. Ready for the rally in August.
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