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Old 06-07-2017, 09:36 PM   #16
redjay   redjay is offline
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Universal joint in the drive shaft maybe.



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Old 06-07-2017, 10:33 PM   #17
alwhite00   alwhite00 is offline
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Personally with 18k miles I wouldn't touch it just because you have put parts into your old motor. If it means that much to you just put it in the corner if you ever need them.
 
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Old 06-08-2017, 04:47 AM   #18
MAS Tequila   MAS Tequila is offline
 
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There are three bearings in the bevel gear area, one on the gear, one in the cover, and one in the case.

Not to mention the different combination of shims.

Which did you have changed, and are you sure the person doing it got the shims back in the correct places?

The labor to pull the parts will likely be more than the cost of the parts.

If you end up putting the bevel gear cover from the carb engine on the FI engine, it doesn't have the extra hole for the speedo sensor, I would definitely be interested in the cover from the FI engine.
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Old 06-08-2017, 07:06 AM   #19
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Mas if the decal whine persist after He does the engine swap will it be the rear diff like on cars/trucks off throttle on throttle whine ?
 
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Old 06-08-2017, 07:42 AM   #20
MAS Tequila   MAS Tequila is offline
 
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Originally Posted by vulcanscott View Post
Mas if the decal whine persist after He does the engine swap will it be the rear diff like on cars/trucks off throttle on throttle whine ?
Anything, almost, is possible.

It would be really difficult to misdiagnose the final drive whine, which is extremely rare and completely different sounding, as the front bevel gear.

I would bet that one of the other of the three bearings was bad, or the shims got mixed up and something is misaligned.

It's also a possibility that the oil line is plugged and the bearing isn't getting enough oil.

I'm curious as to what the idle was set at before the first noise started.

I have a theory that some Kaw owners set the idle down to mimic the HD sound.

This WILL cause the engine to run with less than optimal oil pressure while idling.

The oil line that bathes the front bevel gear bearing, the one that always goes bad, is at the end of the line, literally and yes the pun was intended.


So I believe that some of these bearings are being starved for oil while idling and being damaged.

And as we all know, once it's damaged it doesn't get any better.

Even the HDs are supposed to idle faster than that 'classic HD sound'.

That's why so many need top ends around 30-40 thousand miles.
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Old 06-08-2017, 07:46 AM   #21
MAS Tequila   MAS Tequila is offline
 
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Originally Posted by vulcanscott View Post
Mas if the decal whine persist after He does the engine swap will it be the rear diff like on cars/trucks off throttle on throttle whine ?
Well now if it's just some sticker (decal whine) making noise, then just scape that sucker off.

Sorry, but someone has to be an asshole now and then.

And I'm good at it!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 06-08-2017, 10:20 PM   #22
DragonLady58   DragonLady58 is offline
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MAS IS DA MAN! Give him case of cigars! The big vulcans have oil lines the squirt oil on all the important bearings in the lower crankcase including that final drive....but if your idling below 750 or 850 rpm, that jet of oil coming from those lines doesn't have the pressure to make it thru those spinning bearings....
Yes, while sitting still, its getting a nice little bath, but, it needs a steady stream going down the road. While you do the HD imatation at a low idle, you aren't pumping near enough oil....
Thats why these bikes can run 150,000 usually before rebuilds.
Idle that bitsh up until you have a slight vib., she'll still sound like a HD....but live alot longer. That 800 rpm vib. is the key....idle any lower, your doing more harm than good....
On my bike, when my idle starts to hunt, thats a sign that my throttle body needs cleaning....then she regains her idle. I have a lope till about 850 to 950 rpms caused by my nonstock cams I run....mine doesn't smooth until 1000 or 1050....
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Old 06-19-2017, 11:48 AM   #23
Tadyccs   Tadyccs is offline
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Originally Posted by MAS Tequila View Post
The FI engine will work in the carb equipped bike.

You will have to bolt your intake in place using 1 bolt on each head, then mark the other location, drill and tap for the 2nd intake bolt in both heads.

Everything else bolts right on to the FI engine.

You can call me @5612103399 with any questions, if you like.
My mechanic has the 2000 motor and is trying to mount the intake manifold. The bottom bolt lines up but he states that there is not enough material on the head to drill and tap the top bolt. Any suggestions?
 
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Old 06-19-2017, 12:18 PM   #24
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There is plenty of meat there to drill the holes and tap them! Call MAS, he will talk you thru the procedure....no, you don't have to disassemble anything, just cover and tap off thing good before hand.
Take your time and don't rush....
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Old 06-19-2017, 01:44 PM   #25
MAS Tequila   MAS Tequila is offline
 
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His mistake is that his guy is doing it backwards.

Bolt up to the top holes and there will be plenty to drill and tap at the bottom.

It's not as easy to get to, but that's why he's the wrench and not the customer.

He probably doesn't have a right angle drill, and doesn't want to get one.
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Old 07-12-2017, 07:29 PM   #26
Tadyccs   Tadyccs is offline
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Engine Swap

Thank you for all for your help. The 2000 fuel injected motor (now carbureted) is in my 1999 bike. The bike is running well. Couple things I need to point out for anyone attempting to do this. First off the bottom bolts need to be mounted first and then the top bolts need to be drilled and tapped. There is no room for error here. There is not much metal to work with either here. You cannot mount this intake by mounting the top bolts as it just will not physically fit. You will also have to elongate the intake mounting bolt holes for this to fit. You'll need to create a gasket for this mounting also. Yamabond works well. Costs;

New motor 18,000 miles on it $650
Shipping $100
Mechanic install including oil, coolant, gaskets, etc $425
Total $1275
3 weeks out of service

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Old 09-26-2017, 02:35 AM   #27
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Top or bottom holes first.There are 2 different opinions here,which one is right.Something so important needs to be clarified,as it could render the engine useless if its done wrong.
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Old 09-26-2017, 11:10 AM   #28
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Good catch. I had to rub my eyes and read both posts again to be certain that they DO NOT agree. One of them is not right. I won't, personally, ever have to do this swap but the incorrect post needs to go away or be corrected to save someone a heart ache down the road. I suspect the guy who had to hire the work done is incorrect on the bolt holes and drilling just as his math on total costs is wrong also.
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Old 09-26-2017, 11:25 PM   #29
denny 606   denny 606 is offline
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Originally Posted by dhuttonkc View Post
Good catch. I had to rub my eyes and read both posts again to be certain that they DO NOT agree. One of them is not right. I won't, personally, ever have to do this swap but the incorrect post needs to go away or be corrected to save someone a heart ache down the road. I suspect the guy who had to hire the work done is incorrect on the bolt holes and drilling just as his math on total costs is wrong also.
I'm going to go with Mas being correct because he and DragonLady have both done engine swaps in their day. I'll take experience of someone on here over what someone told someone every time.

Even if I did have to Lay Healing Hands on Mas' Meanie after some particulary fierce rain
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Old 09-27-2017, 11:34 AM   #30
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Agreed. But as in this case where the OP joined the forum to get "an answer" (joined May 2017, asked question May 2017. Total 7 posts and gone.) and doesn't know anyone or their background or experience the next guy could find one of the two answers and drill incorrectly following the wrong information and be screwed big time.
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