Synthetic Oil or Not

[redjay]

It takes about 5 litres when changing the oil and filter on a 1700.

[ponch]

Originally Posted by redjay

It takes about 5 litres when changing the oil and filter on a 1700.

Not on a 1500/1600. I forgot it was a Vaquero. Even so, the oil is still shared.

[landman]

in my vaquero when i changed to syntetic it shifted quiter and ran cooler.valvoline 4t full synthetic 10w40.

[smokey]

Also don't forget the VN1700s have two oil plugs, you don't take out the front one and you will be leaving about a quart of dirty oil in there. FYI most oils that are 10w40 and above are not the ones with the additives that can make the clutches slip, at least I haven't found one yet up here in the GWN area. All the ones that are 10w30 and below have the label stating they have the additives.

[Kevinhyland]

Thank you, very well said.

[Kevinhyland]

Thank you all for the input, appreciated!

[jjg3]

I've had oil analysis done on 3 motorcycles at intervals from 3k to 10k miles (Triumph America 40k miles, BMW R11RT 45k miles, Suzuki DR650 5k miles) with very informative results. I wanted results more to preclude/identify component failure than extending oil changes. I got what I asked for. The only machine to have impeding failure as shown in the oil was the Beemer. Because it has separate engine/trans oil, the engine oil looked good even after 10k miles. The transmission came out once each for a seal failure and then bent a shift fork. Both identified in the analysis allowing for repair in the garage rather than on the road. For the Triumph the anaysis did show that after 5500 miles semi-synthetic Royal Purple was about maxed out. It appears full synthetic holds its properties longer. The DR sample was sent in only because I couldn't remember if I had changed the oil on purchase (got it used). The lab said it looked like I had not. Blackstone Labs has a pretty informative website and a funny newsletter, the owner has a great sense of humor. What you really learn if you're open to it is that the oil producer marketing departments really earn they're pay. When you ask someone what's the best oil for an automotive application and they give you a brand name response, well, that company's marketing department earned they're pay. That's ok, really. In my opinion oil is oil (viscosity as called for by your application, of course) and if you want to pay more for a certain brand name it's good for the economy and doesn't hurt anything.

By way of background, I've worked in military and civil aviation for several decades. This is where I learned about oil analysis. Was totally impressed with the Army lab that could tell us what part in a gearbox was failing before it failed. So you can take it or leave it.

But man, some guys really take it personally when you say something that might challenge their oil beliefs! So, really, if you're sold on a certain oil, I'll be the first to concede there's nothing wrong with it, it's great!

[ponch]

Originally Posted by jjg3

I've had oil analysis done on 3 motorcycles at intervals from 3k to 10k miles (Triumph America 40k miles, BMW R11RT 45k miles, Suzuki DR650 5k miles) with very informative results. I wanted results more to preclude/identify component failure than extending oil changes. I got what I asked for. The only machine to have impeding failure as shown in the oil was the Beemer. Because it has separate engine/trans oil, the engine oil looked good even after 10k miles. The transmission came out once each for a seal failure and then bent a shift fork. Both identified in the analysis allowing for repair in the garage rather than on the road.

The beemer was the only one that showed impending failure but the oil was good for 10K miles. Not sure what you mean.

What I discovered anecdotally is that temp probably factors in. When I changed the oil 2x in Iowa, the oil still looked like honey colored and relatively clean. When I changed it after a summer in AZ, it looked like crap and beat to piss. I had been using Castrol 4T dino and switched to Mobil 1 15W-50 this fall. I use Mobil 1 for the transmission and FD.

[jjg3]

The beemer engine/oil was fine. Transmission had issues. They are separate.

[ponch]

Originally Posted by jjg3

The beemer engine/oil was fine. Transmission had issues. They are separate.

I know, I own a R12RT.

[blowndodge]

Originally Posted by Top Cat

Most of the time yes.
Sometimes members get tired of answering the same questions over and over.
In my opinion, if they are tired of answering then they should move on to the next thread.
The title of this thread should be enough to help them make up their mind whether to click on it or not.

My how you've evolved TC!! Now I'm not afraid of starting a "loud pipes saves lives" thread!

[cactusjack]

Originally Posted by blowndodge

My how you've evolved TC!! Now I'm not afraid of starting a "loud pipes saves lives" thread!

Don't forget the "helmets are for pu**ies, and full face helmets are for bigger pu**ies" discussion.

[blowndodge]

I'm on it!!!

[trip]

I know oil posts and questions get old, but I trust some of you guys will develop more patience for the new guys. We all started out asking the same questions one time or another.

[degreaser]

I use Shell Rotella 15w40 dino in the summer and Rotella 5w40 in spring and fall. Here on the Atlantic coast its mostly cool. If I lived in hotter climate areas I would probably use synthetic to handle a hotter running motor. I don't think my water cooled 1500 classic runs that hot to need synthetic oil. The shared transmission/clutch/engine I believe will break down the Rotella faster so I change it out early. And I probably would be wasting money using synthetic because I don't like going long on OCI figuring that it's not good to leave dirty synthetic oil in there too long.