Wiring?

[ringadingh]

The accessory wires are fused at 10amps, more than enough to power the radio.

[coacha]

PCD/PDC? please elaborate on what those are.

[ringadingh]

I was wondering that myself Ron. Guys use the abbreviations, not realizing most of us have no idea what they mean.

[Rotorboy]

I believe he means Power Center and Distribution or Power Distribution Center. i.e., Fuse box. Modern cars have relay ports built in so you can run a relay by just dropping power in and then running to your load. The relay it's self is then just plugged in. Makes for a very clean compact setup. Could you post a simple list of everything you want to run? Thanks

[Monkeyman]

I ordered this today. http://www.wiringproducts.com/contents/en-us/p519.html It has a place for grounds, too so I hope it will work. I have: stereo (12v constant/12v switched/ground), 3 gauges, power for 4 ways (per Gadgets site), lighter.

[Jackag]

Originally Posted by Monkeyman

That's a constant lead? I assumed it was switched. Hmmm... Still, a wire straight to the batter for constant power then one to a relay that went to a fuse block might keep things a bit tidier? Especially if I'm trying to connect everything between the fairing and bike with 4 pin trailer connectors.

I figured I'd need (3) 4 pin connectors. One for the whole headlight wiring thing (from Eastern Beaver, no less), and a total of 2 for the other misc stuff. I was thinking about connecting the turn signals through another connector for ease in removing the fairing (in the event of an accident or for when I need to paint). Perhaps I can just plug those in to the OEM connectors. I'll have to lengthen the wires anyway.

If you are interested I can provide you with some part numbers for a single 14pin connector. Would be easier than several connectors.

[Monkeyman]

I think I have the wiring figured out. I drew it on paper but it looks like a bowl of spaghetti. I'll redo it this morning (with pretty lines and such) and snap a pic of it to post. Ya'll can see what you think.

[ringadingh]

That fuse panel you chose should work well, thats the same as I had, but mine doesn't have the ground terminals. Ive never seen them before like that but its exactly what you need.

[Monkeyman]

Well, that'll be one thing I've done right so far. I'm off to a good start. :)

[ringadingh]

You can connect it with a 30-40 amp relay so it becomes switched if you need.

[macmac]

The only thing missing is a ground wire from the forks to the frame in a heavy enough size to be the ground the head bearings are right now! Probably a 10 gauge wire in black bolted to any bolt near the head stock to the forks, as a ground.

Maybe you added one in another of my rants already?

The whole reason is about keeping bearings, bearings and not turning them into rocks. When current passes through bearings that are greased, and are not good connections in the first place arcing occures, and little by little the bearings are turned into steel rocks. Pebbles of steel make for very poor bearings. I call these pebbles because that's what they end up looking like. They get black and irregular.

[collinr]

Originally Posted by ringadingh

The accessory wires are fused at 10amps, more than enough to power the radio.

I would want far more in mine. Running an inverter from the outlet would be nce on occasion. So would the ability to jump start a buddy without having to do anything other then pull out a custom cable.

Originally Posted by Rotorboy

I believe he means Power Center and Distribution or Power Distribution Center. i.e., Fuse box. Modern cars have relay ports built in so you can run a relay by just dropping power in and then running to your load. The relay it's self is then just plugged in. Makes for a very clean compact setup. Could you post a simple list of everything you want to run? Thanks

Yup Power Distribution Center, its an all in one deal. The bigger problem is probably finding one thats not crazy overkill. Even say a Jeep Wrangler doesn't have too many circuits since it's a rather basic vehicle the PDC is a long narrow design that would probably be tough to fit in a fairing.

Originally Posted by macmac

The whole reason is about keeping bearings, bearings and not turning them into rocks. When current passes through bearings that are greased, and are not good connections in the first place arcing occures, and little by little the bearings are turned into steel rocks. Pebbles of steel make for very poor bearings. I call these pebbles because that's what they end up looking like. They get black and irregular.

Thats definately true, I would consider the highway bar as I think that is one of your chassis connections. You don't want your path to ground to go through bearings.

[collinr]

I can only think of a few wires I would need coming from the bike.

Chassis ground
Unswitched hot
Park position from key switch, not sure where to source. One of you guys know???

You can make unswitched hot switched by using the headlamp low beam to trip a relay. No need to have a seperate switched lead coming from the bike.

Me personally I would probably run an overkill lead for hot and ground and then some stranded Cat5 for the rest. If you use a shared ground you can run 8 signals on a single Cat5. Once you have a good hot supply into the fairing it only takes a few miliamps to trip the relays, 22 or 24 gauge Cat5 is plenty for that task. Since it's stranded it will handle the vibration and movement like automotive wire. However unless you can find CMX you would need to run it inside a wire loom to protect it from UV.

I think the park feature is just underutilized so I want to do something cool with it.

[Monkeyman]

Originally Posted by ringadingh

You can connect it with a 30-40 amp relay so it becomes switched if you need.

That's my intention. I only need 1 constant power lead (for the radio) so I'll have 1 hot to the radio, 1 hot to a relay powering the fuse block and a ground off of the fuse block (ground junction thing).

Originally Posted by macmac

The only thing missing is a ground wire from the forks to the frame in a heavy enough size to be the ground the head bearings are right now! Probably a 10 gauge wire in black bolted to any bolt near the head stock to the forks, as a ground.

Hiya, buddy! I have 2 ground wires running from the front of the bike (where they'll plug into the fairing) back to the battery. I think they're 12 gauge so it should be big enough. Good thinking.

Originally Posted by collinr

I can only think of a few wires I would need coming from the bike.

Chassis ground
Unswitched hot
Park position from key switch, not sure where to source. One of you guys know???

You can make unswitched hot switched by using the headlamp low beam to trip a relay. No need to have a seperate switched lead coming from the bike.

Me personally I would probably run an overkill lead for hot and ground and then some stranded Cat5 for the rest. If you use a shared ground you can run 8 signals on a single Cat5. Once you have a good hot supply into the fairing it only takes a few miliamps to trip the relays, 22 or 24 gauge Cat5 is plenty for that task. Since it's stranded it will handle the vibration and movement like automotive wire. However unless you can find CMX you would need to run it inside a wire loom to protect it from UV.

I think the park feature is just underutilized so I want to do something cool with it.

Please, don't confuse me. I've got this overthought already.