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Old 12-23-2020, 12:53 AM   #16
Kawi_addict   Kawi_addict is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andyvh1959 View Post
A bit. The 1600 and the 1700 both have a three wire speed sensor. On the 1600, the speed sensor wire colors in the harness are BK/Y, LG/R and LG/BK. On the 1700, the speed sensor wire colors in the harness are BR/Y, BL and LG/R. The speed sensor on each bike is different from the other, they mount similarly, but the shape of each is different enough that one can't replace the other. Each one puts out a voltage signal. On the 1700 the manual says the speed sensor has a output voltage range of 0.05V to 4.9V. On the 1600 the manual only gives a test to check the sensor output by registering a "twitch" on a voltmeter when a screwdriver blade is waved over the end of the sensor. Perhaps the 1600 speed sensor does produce a specific voltage output but the 1600 manual does not specify any range. When I get to that point I'll test the sensor on the 1600 to the test parameters for the 1700 speed sensor to see if the 1600 sensor sends the right signal to the gauge panel.

Both speed sensors send signals to the ECU and to the turn signal cancel system on each bike. Since the 1700 has cruise control, the speed sensor sends a signal to the instrument cluster on the LG/R wire. I assume that is to show the "set" speed on the gauge center section. Aside from that I have not found where else on the 1700 sends a signal from the speed sensor.

On the 1600, the speed sensor wire colors in the harness are BK/Y, LG/R and LG/BK. On the 1700, the speed sensor wire colors in the harness are BR/Y, BL and LG/R. Perhaps one of the wires from the 1600 speed sensor can send a signal to the LG/R wire on the 1700 gauge set. I'm guessing on your wiring of the gauge set you did not use the LG/R wire yet?
Wish I would've red this properly the first time now I need to see if I used the light green and red wire
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Old 12-24-2020, 10:14 AM   #17
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On my set up the light green and red from 1600 meets up to light green and red in 1700 gauge. The 1600 light green and black meets with the blue to the 1700 gauge set. And black and yellow are of coarse ground on both. While the bright red and yellow wire for the 1700 gauge set is a meter 3 according to the diagram if I put momentary power to it it controls clock settings so that's how I confirmed that to be correct
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Old 12-24-2020, 10:25 AM   #18
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I didn't use it!! I didn't think it matters but if the speed sensor circuit is not complete with out it then wtf.... What do I hook it to on the 1700 gauge set??? Getting close! I can feel the progress coming together I just need to think about where I hook into to make it happen
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Old 12-24-2020, 10:27 AM   #19
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Where to I tie the turn signal speed sensor into the 1700 gauge set do I tie it into the regular speed sensor and just have two wires in the same loop?
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Old 12-30-2020, 03:02 PM   #20
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Hmm. Study the wiring diagram for the 1700 and the Nomad for the connections between the sensors and the turn signal control, and I bet both are very similar. The turn signal control must send the signal to the turn indicator lights for both the 1700 and the Nomad. Should just need to connect the Nomad turn signal control box to the appropriate pins at the 1700 gauge set. For the turn indicator lights I bet the signal to the gauge set has to come from the turn signal control box, whether its on the Nomad or 1700. The speed sensor just sends a signal to the turn signal control box so it can determine the distance the bike covers before it cancels the signal to the indicator ligts.
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Old 01-08-2021, 05:51 PM   #21
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Back on cruise, FACTORY cruise that is. Today I scored what should be the complete Kawasaki factory cruise system from a ZG1200 Voyager. Kawasaki produced the electronic cruise control from 1987 to 2003, so there are lots of them out there and the parts are reasonable cost wise. I got the ECM, the electric actuator, the complete throttle cable/junction box (four cables), the center console switches, and the chassis wiring harness (which includes the relays), for $100. I also had the RH handlebar control cluster with the wiring and cruise control switches.

On the ZG1200, like the VN1600, two cables from the handgrip control the cam on either the carbs or throttle body. So the ZG1200 cables and splitter/junction box should work on the 1600. I plan to mount the ECM on the inside of the fairing I'm installing, and the throttle actuator will mount on the fairing mount at the steering head, so the actuator cable to the throttle body cam operates in the same direction as the stock throttle cables. The VN1600 already has switches for the front brake, rear brake and clutch, similar to the ZG1200. Only thing the 1600 doesn't have is a gearshift indicator, so for the cruise I'll have to jumper the pin input at the ECM to fake it to think the bike is in top gear.

Here are the system diagrams for the ZG1200 cruise control:
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File Type: jpg ZG1200 Cruise ECM.jpg (67.6 KB, 2 views)
File Type: jpg ZG1200 cruise diagram.jpg (80.5 KB, 3 views)
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Old 01-11-2021, 08:59 PM   #22
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With the info on those diagrams I should be able to bench test the system, by applying power and ground to the right pins. May have to fake the signals for the clutch, brake and shift sensors. For the "speed" signal I may be able to use an adjustable voltage regulator to create a voltage varying from 1v to 12v and see how the actuator reacts. The actuator is an electric stepper motor, so it gets the signal from the cruise ECM to hold the throttle based on the info from the speed. The actuator is about the size of older smart phone, and about two inches thick so it should be reasonable to mount on the bike.
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Old 01-13-2021, 07:31 PM   #23
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Awesome!! Excited to see this come together
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Old 01-14-2021, 05:37 PM   #24
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Only challenge may be getting the speed signal. On most inductive or Hall effect sensors, the signal degrades by half if you tap another output line from the sensor. If I just tap into the current speed sensor signal, I may only get half the standard signal strength from it. Perhaps with a Hall effect sensor I'd have to double the input voltage to tap off a 2nd output.
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