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12-23-2020, 12:53 AM | #16 | |
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: K.c. Missouri
Posts: 128
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Quote:
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12-24-2020, 10:14 AM | #17 |
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: K.c. Missouri
Posts: 128
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On my set up the light green and red from 1600 meets up to light green and red in 1700 gauge. The 1600 light green and black meets with the blue to the 1700 gauge set. And black and yellow are of coarse ground on both. While the bright red and yellow wire for the 1700 gauge set is a meter 3 according to the diagram if I put momentary power to it it controls clock settings so that's how I confirmed that to be correct
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Love team green owned almost all of them from atvs to baggers and even a lawn mower My dog is my co pilot
Last edited by Kawi_addict; 12-24-2020 at 04:20 PM.
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12-24-2020, 10:25 AM | #18 |
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: K.c. Missouri
Posts: 128
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I didn't use it!! I didn't think it matters but if the speed sensor circuit is not complete with out it then wtf.... What do I hook it to on the 1700 gauge set??? Getting close! I can feel the progress coming together I just need to think about where I hook into to make it happen
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Love team green owned almost all of them from atvs to baggers and even a lawn mower My dog is my co pilot |
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12-24-2020, 10:27 AM | #19 |
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: K.c. Missouri
Posts: 128
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Where to I tie the turn signal speed sensor into the 1700 gauge set do I tie it into the regular speed sensor and just have two wires in the same loop?
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12-30-2020, 03:02 PM | #20 |
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Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Green Bay WI
Posts: 755
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Hmm. Study the wiring diagram for the 1700 and the Nomad for the connections between the sensors and the turn signal control, and I bet both are very similar. The turn signal control must send the signal to the turn indicator lights for both the 1700 and the Nomad. Should just need to connect the Nomad turn signal control box to the appropriate pins at the 1700 gauge set. For the turn indicator lights I bet the signal to the gauge set has to come from the turn signal control box, whether its on the Nomad or 1700. The speed sensor just sends a signal to the turn signal control box so it can determine the distance the bike covers before it cancels the signal to the indicator ligts.
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01-08-2021, 05:51 PM | #21 |
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Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Green Bay WI
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Back on cruise, FACTORY cruise that is. Today I scored what should be the complete Kawasaki factory cruise system from a ZG1200 Voyager. Kawasaki produced the electronic cruise control from 1987 to 2003, so there are lots of them out there and the parts are reasonable cost wise. I got the ECM, the electric actuator, the complete throttle cable/junction box (four cables), the center console switches, and the chassis wiring harness (which includes the relays), for $100. I also had the RH handlebar control cluster with the wiring and cruise control switches.
On the ZG1200, like the VN1600, two cables from the handgrip control the cam on either the carbs or throttle body. So the ZG1200 cables and splitter/junction box should work on the 1600. I plan to mount the ECM on the inside of the fairing I'm installing, and the throttle actuator will mount on the fairing mount at the steering head, so the actuator cable to the throttle body cam operates in the same direction as the stock throttle cables. The VN1600 already has switches for the front brake, rear brake and clutch, similar to the ZG1200. Only thing the 1600 doesn't have is a gearshift indicator, so for the cruise I'll have to jumper the pin input at the ECM to fake it to think the bike is in top gear. Here are the system diagrams for the ZG1200 cruise control:
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My $1200 Vulcan, to start from.
Last edited by andyvh1959; 01-11-2021 at 08:59 PM.
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01-11-2021, 08:59 PM | #22 |
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Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Green Bay WI
Posts: 755
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With the info on those diagrams I should be able to bench test the system, by applying power and ground to the right pins. May have to fake the signals for the clutch, brake and shift sensors. For the "speed" signal I may be able to use an adjustable voltage regulator to create a voltage varying from 1v to 12v and see how the actuator reacts. The actuator is an electric stepper motor, so it gets the signal from the cruise ECM to hold the throttle based on the info from the speed. The actuator is about the size of older smart phone, and about two inches thick so it should be reasonable to mount on the bike.
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01-13-2021, 07:31 PM | #23 |
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: K.c. Missouri
Posts: 128
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Awesome!! Excited to see this come together
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01-14-2021, 05:37 PM | #24 |
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Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Green Bay WI
Posts: 755
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Only challenge may be getting the speed signal. On most inductive or Hall effect sensors, the signal degrades by half if you tap another output line from the sensor. If I just tap into the current speed sensor signal, I may only get half the standard signal strength from it. Perhaps with a Hall effect sensor I'd have to double the input voltage to tap off a 2nd output.
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