Dutch Bypass

[jandreu]

I saw macmac comment on the "Dutch Bypass" on mattdaelectrician's thread about de-baffling.

I've seen this talked about on gadget's list but can't find any info.

Can someone explain the "Dutch Bypass" it sounds like a set of pipes made to replace the "goats bladder", if so how or who can I get info from?
Thanks,

[radco]

Your right it was a cluster of pipes made to bypass the GB..(about 350/400$ US) The guy who made the lived overseas and quit making them, Someone else was going to start but has posted he did,,, Several say a custom exhaust shop can make one...Someone with better info will pop in soon,, or PM Mac,, he can probly tell you where the guy lived and any new links to a GB,,,,,,

[ringadingh]

I think the guy was selling them as a kit that you weld together as well, I don,t see why a exhaust shop couldn't make one either easily. For the price you would be better off replacing the complete exhaust system.

[clayton]

Yes, Ring has a good point.
You can grab a good deal on Cobra's or V&H's for just a few bucks more than the Dutch setup.
In the same breath however, if your local Midas or Ma n Pa muffler shop can make one for less than $50 then your in like flint.
Keep in mind that if you go that route or new pipes you better invest in some type of digital fuel processor at the same time.
:)

[snarleybill08]

the bypass is no longer available. i was going to make one, but do to the angle of the oem pipes and the sharp bends needed in the bypass, it just wasn,t feesible. it would be alot more work than meets the eye. a jig would have to be fabricated to align all the tubing while welding. i decided to go with cobra true duals after much research. bill

[jestephens]

Originally Posted by radco

Your right it was a cluster of pipes made to bypass the GB..(about 350/400$ US) The guy who made the lived overseas and quit making them, Someone else was going to start but has posted he did,,, Several say a custom exhaust shop can make one...Someone with better info will pop in soon,, or PM Mac,, he can probly tell you where the guy lived and any new links to a GB,,,,,,

It's still worth an inquery. I had gotten mine done for $100 originally. It just depends on the shop. ;)

[macmac]

Don't do this bi-pass and also de-baffel... Somewhere there needs to be back pressure. I know how these work, but never saw one.

IMP de-baffeling isn't the bet thing to do, but new slightly used oem at e-bay are cheap...... still.

The most of why is if i was forced by law to go back to stock....for a day, I could.

All the mods i did to date have been so in a few hours, maybe 8, I could go back to dead bare bones stock, except for the saddlebag rails.

The price for the bi-pass was to close to V&H, so I never went in that direction.

Someone handy with a vise and hand help pipe bender probably could make his own for less than 50 bucks is car adapters and pipe fittings.

If you do make 3 or 4 to keep since they will burn out sometime. If you are really handy make them in stainless. That would cost more than a Road House set up...

[jestephens]

Originally Posted by macmac

Don't do this bi-pass and also de-baffel... Somewhere there needs to be back pressure. I know how these work, but never saw one.

IMP de-baffeling isn't the bet thing to do, but new slightly used oem at e-bay are cheap...... still.

The most of why is if i was forced by law to go back to stock....for a day, I could.

All the mods i did to date have been so in a few hours, maybe 8, I could go back to dead bare bones stock, except for the saddlebag rails.

The price for the bi-pass was to close to V&H, so I never went in that direction.

Someone handy with a vise and hand help pipe bender probably could make his own for less than 50 bucks is car adapters and pipe fittings.

If you do make 3 or 4 to keep since they will burn out sometime. If you are really handy make them in stainless. That would cost more than a Road House set up...

Mac, mine had the bypass, debaffled, and 2" holes through the rest of the insides, as well as a hyper charger, and fuel processor. I didn't have any trouble with back pressure, power, or mileage. The pipes were small enough, and there was still enough turbulance through the muffler body to keep things in balance. I ran it that way for +30k miles before I bought V&H.

Running V&H with no baffles or torque cones left me needing some pressure though, for sure!

[macmac]

I stand corrected, but which pipes stayed smaller? Seems surprising you didn't loose too much back pressure. What sort of MPG's did you get like that? I assume this is a 1500.. Problem there is in the sig pics i don't think I see any 1500..

[jestephens]

No, Mac, you're right, it's a 1600.
The pipes entering the muffler body were relatively small in diameter. I don't have them around any more to double check, but that was always my impression.

[novne1600]

I was wondering if someone out there has an abandoned goats bladder cat for an '08 Nomad Fi. I work at a place that has a complete shop, and would like to gut one, and see how it goes. Referenced the article on Gadet's page, and looks do-able. I'll pay for shipping, if someone would be so kind to help one deep on the dark side. Have been tossing around building a jig, then loaning it out for all to use if I can experiment.

[redjay]

Hi, I bought a complete stock exhaust system for my 05.

I gutted the goatbelly and I did not like the extra noise and the performance seemed flatter.
I put the stock goatbelly back on after a few days. I like the sound of the debaffled stock mufflers but not a gutted goatbelly as well.

If you want to go ahead and gut a goatbelly I cut mine in half in a drop saw at 90 degrees to the stock weld. One half was in the vice while the other half was clamped to the area near the blade. Cut (drop) very slowly. Getting the baffle plates out of the two halves is the hardest part after you remove the honeycomb. In my opinion way too much work for more noise and flatter performance. Just my 2 cents.

[jestephens]

I agree. I gutted my goat's belly originally, but wasn't happy with it. Not worth the time and effort.

I cut mine along the seam with a band saw, torched out the inside stuff, and tig'ed it back together. It would have been time much better spent to make my own bypass.