'09 Nomad Front Tire Install

zylar · 11-01-2013, 09:11 PM

I am in middle of changing front tire for first time on my '09 Nomad and trying to decide if I am over thinking the process. When I first disassembled the front wheel I anticipated front axle being tight (manual calls for 94 ft. lbs.) however it came out with very little effort almost as if not even tightened originally. Then while reassembling, the manual calls out a distance between right front fork and collar of 2mm (.080") and specifies "if out of tolerance, remove wheel and check for damage" What would be the tolerance? I have axle torqued to 94 ft. lbs. and the distance is 3mm (.112"). Should this be of concern of this distance or axle torqued to tight?

Section 10-7 from Manual

•Install the front wheel, and insert the front axle.
•Remove the commercially available jack.
•Tighten:
Torque - Front Axle : 127 N·m (13.0 kgf·m, 94 ft·lb)
•Before tightening the front axle clamp bolts, pump the
forks up and down [A] 4 or 5 times to allow the right fork
leg to find a neutral position on the front axle.
NOTE
○Put a block [B] in front of the wheel to stop moving.
○Do not apply the front brake.
•Tighten:
Torque - Front Axle Clamp Bolts: 20 N·m (2.0 kgf·m, 15 ft·lb)
○Tighten the inner bolt [A] first, tighten the outer bolt [B]
second, and then tighten the inner bolt again.
•Check the clearance [C] between the right fork leg [D] and
collar [E]. There should be about 2.0 mm (0.08 in.) of
clearance.
If the clearance is out of this range, remove the front wheel
again and check the axle, wheel hub and other related
parts for damage.
•Install the front calipers (see Caliper Installation in the
Brakes chapter).
•Check the front brake effectiveness.

chuckster131 · 11-02-2013, 06:10 AM

Ok never been aware of this one before, but as I read the install its states to ( to allow the right fork
leg to find a neutral position on the front axle.) Yours could be neutral with a bit more gap. If everything is tight and it rides ok I would believe its ok.
For it not being tight as 94 ft lb upon disassembly , that could have been from the dealer.

gcsteve · 11-02-2013, 07:20 AM

Before tightening the front axle clamp bolts, pump theforks up and down [A] 4 or 5 times to allow the right forkleg to find a neutral position on the front axle.NOTE○Put a block [B] in front of the wheel to stop moving.○Do not apply the front brake.

I did not do this step properly. Think I applied brake then tightened clamp bolts. Rode 500 miles then bearings were toasted. Had to stop in middle of PA and get bearings replaced. Owner of shop told me as soon as he loosed the clamp bolts the fork sprung out as if it were under tension. So dont apply the brakes when pumping fork.

RACNRAY · 11-02-2013, 09:33 AM

The proper procedure my shop uses is as follows...

Once the wheel is installed and the axle torqued we put the skoot in first gear, back the skoot up to take all the movement outa the drivetrain, put a wheel chock in front of the front tire, Mark holds the chock and I vigorously pump the front end, he then tightens all of the pinch bolts.

THE MOST IMPORTANT aspect which I left out is with the calipers. IF the calipers are installed onto the forks as they were removed THEY have a tendancy to hold the wheel in a fixed position, then tightening the axle and pinch bolts WILL cause a bind on bearings, pads and rotors.

BEFORE the calipers are re-installed use a screwdriver to spread the pads out(i.e. you are pushing the pistons BACK INTO the caliper bores). Install the calipers and procede with the front end pumping. ONLY after the pinch bolts have been tightened do you pump up the brake to push the pads out to their proper position.

This process garantees there is no binding of the forks (aka stiction) and the brakes will not cause excessive drag on the rotors.

I suggest removing the calipers, spreading the pads, loosening up the pinch bolts, repeating the fork pumping with a helper. You may find all will be well after.

RACNRAY

zylar · 11-02-2013, 09:47 AM

Thank you all for your suggestions! I did pump the front forks (without calipers installed) however most likely not as vigorously as RACNRAY described. I'll grab a helper and give that another try this weekend. Thanks again!

RACNRAY · 11-02-2013, 09:53 AM

BTW....the front fender can have a influence on how the forks sit on the axle. A tweaked front fender can actually pull the forks inward, or in your case spread the forks out.
That is something you may want to check also.

RACNRAY

gcsteve · 11-02-2013, 09:53 AM

I wish I asked Ray before I did mine but High Strenth Vtwin in Harrisburg P.A. took care of me when I was stranded. They drove me to and from hotel and got me on road next day at 1p.m. for $67. Great people.

zylar · 11-02-2013, 05:17 PM

UPDATE;

There does not appear to be anything binding so I aggressively pumped front forks and the gap actually increased slightly. If I pump forks and leave bike in upright position it measures .115-.125". However I have found if I pump forks and rest bike on side stand is will drop down to .095". Safe to assume the fork neutral position would be at the upright measurement(1mm over spec.)and lock down....move on?

11-02-2013, 06:10 AM	#2
chuckster131 Sr. Member Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Jackson, Michigan Posts: 1,367	Ok never been aware of this one before, but as I read the install its states to ( to allow the right fork leg to find a neutral position on the front axle.) Yours could be neutral with a bit more gap. If everything is tight and it rides ok I would believe its ok. For it not being tight as 94 ft lb upon disassembly , that could have been from the dealer. __________________ Joe (Chuckster) Norris Jackson, Michigan 2007 Goldwing 2010 Voyager (Blue/Silver)sold 2001 Nomad (gone, but not forgotten) www.chucksterscustoms.com
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11-02-2013, 07:20 AM	#3
gcsteve Member Join Date: Aug 2012 Posts: 217	Before tightening the front axle clamp bolts, pump theforks up and down [A] 4 or 5 times to allow the right forkleg to find a neutral position on the front axle.NOTE○Put a block [B] in front of the wheel to stop moving.○Do not apply the front brake. I did not do this step properly. Think I applied brake then tightened clamp bolts. Rode 500 miles then bearings were toasted. Had to stop in middle of PA and get bearings replaced. Owner of shop told me as soon as he loosed the clamp bolts the fork sprung out as if it were under tension. So dont apply the brakes when pumping fork. __________________ 04 Meanstreak sold Nomad sold 15 Roadmaster
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11-02-2013, 09:33 AM	#4
RACNRAY Sr. Member Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: SOUTH FLORIDA Posts: 1,210	The proper procedure my shop uses is as follows... Once the wheel is installed and the axle torqued we put the skoot in first gear, back the skoot up to take all the movement outa the drivetrain, put a wheel chock in front of the front tire, Mark holds the chock and I vigorously pump the front end, he then tightens all of the pinch bolts. THE MOST IMPORTANT aspect which I left out is with the calipers. IF the calipers are installed onto the forks as they were removed THEY have a tendancy to hold the wheel in a fixed position, then tightening the axle and pinch bolts WILL cause a bind on bearings, pads and rotors. BEFORE the calipers are re-installed use a screwdriver to spread the pads out(i.e. you are pushing the pistons BACK INTO the caliper bores). Install the calipers and procede with the front end pumping. ONLY after the pinch bolts have been tightened do you pump up the brake to push the pads out to their proper position. This process garantees there is no binding of the forks (aka stiction) and the brakes will not cause excessive drag on the rotors. I suggest removing the calipers, spreading the pads, loosening up the pinch bolts, repeating the fork pumping with a helper. You may find all will be well after. RACNRAY __________________ "TRUE HAPPINESS IS IN THE HEART, NOT IN THE OUTSIDE FIXES" WITH OVER 46 YEARS AS A MOTORCYCLE TECHNICIAN/HI-PO SHOP OWNER I AM A PURVEYOR OF FACT NOT FICTION! "WE LIVE OUR LIVES IN CHAINS NEVER KNOWING WE HAD THE KEY"
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11-02-2013, 09:47 AM	#5
zylar Jr. Member Join Date: Sep 2009 Posts: 5	Thank you all for your suggestions! I did pump the front forks (without calipers installed) however most likely not as vigorously as RACNRAY described. I'll grab a helper and give that another try this weekend. Thanks again! Login or Register to Remove Ads
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11-02-2013, 09:53 AM	#6
RACNRAY Sr. Member Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: SOUTH FLORIDA Posts: 1,210	BTW....the front fender can have a influence on how the forks sit on the axle. A tweaked front fender can actually pull the forks inward, or in your case spread the forks out. That is something you may want to check also. RACNRAY __________________ "TRUE HAPPINESS IS IN THE HEART, NOT IN THE OUTSIDE FIXES" WITH OVER 46 YEARS AS A MOTORCYCLE TECHNICIAN/HI-PO SHOP OWNER I AM A PURVEYOR OF FACT NOT FICTION! "WE LIVE OUR LIVES IN CHAINS NEVER KNOWING WE HAD THE KEY"
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11-02-2013, 05:17 PM	#8
zylar Jr. Member Join Date: Sep 2009 Posts: 5	UPDATE; There does not appear to be anything binding so I aggressively pumped front forks and the gap actually increased slightly. If I pump forks and leave bike in upright position it measures .115-.125". However I have found if I pump forks and rest bike on side stand is will drop down to .095". Safe to assume the fork neutral position would be at the upright measurement(1mm over spec.)and lock down....move on?
	0