Drive Shaft Pin

[sturmannderss]

I just went to do my Drive shaft and swing-arm service. I was able to pull the driveshaft right back, because the lock pin was missing. Apperently, it was never installed at the factory. I ask you, being that the final drive is bolted to the drive shaft tube(part of swing-arm). How critical do you guys think that pin is.

I just went to WWW.cheapcycleparts.com. They have the pin. It is $1.48, but they want to charge me $11.50 for shipping. Plus, it's going to take 7-10 days to get here. I held off on that and am going to see if my local dealer has one in stock. I'm asking you guys you're opinion, because if the dealer doesn't have it, I might go without..

[blowndodge]

I'd be kind of spooked without that pin once I knew it wasn't in. Superstition does that to me.

[macmac]

You need the pin even if no problems were created so far as you can tell.

Inside the spline where it goes is the flat circle spring still there? The spring holds the pin from falling in.

What year is the bike and is it on the golden plan?

And i would be madder than hell and take it out on the dealer you bought the bike from anyway. Now don't get too hot, because the dealer didn't know the pin was missing either, but i would want a free one and then maybe something more. Like saddle bag rails a new helmet and bling

How are ALL the splines? Is wear even? Are there any wear steps in any of them?

Is there any 'chatter' markings?

[sturmannderss]

I bought the bike used with 3,500 miles on her, so I can't complain to dealer here. Everything looks fine. I'm going to see when I pull off the swingarm, if it dropped in the hole. I'm just hoping the dealer has the part, because I really don't feel like waiting for 2 weeks.....

[damark115]

If you are going do the swing arm, order the swingarm seals and the pin plus anything else you can think of needing from cheap cycleparts.com That is what I did to make the shipping more desirable. But first I would chat the dealer up to see if they can help you out. I would never ride without that pin though.

[macmac]

I didn't think to measure the pin and get specs. ABout now I wish I did. This pic is the best I can do.


I am hoping that it didn't get away and that there was nothing to press down on, other than the probe you used hitting the flat circle spring ...

If you lost it that is one thing, if you lost it inside the case that is quite another thing.

For right now I am assuming you were there and so KNOW it wasn't there.

I read about 1 guy who allowed the pin to pop up and out and when it fell, the pin entered the case behind the bevel gear spline.

The flat circle spring has ends, and that causes me to wonder if the end gap lines up with the hole and pin fell inside, and has moved to some other place.

Look around hard for the pin. The best reference I have is that tape is standard duct tape.

[redjay]

If I remember correctly its about 3/16th in Dia and 1/4 long (imperial equivalent).

They are easy to lose, are you sure it was not there ? I think the pin is there to keep the driveshaft in place during assembly of the swing arm at the plant ???

[macmac]

Why at 3,500 miles are you in there for?

[sturmannderss]

No. I bought the bike from the original owner and it had 3,500 miles on it. I did locate the pin. I think what happened was the circle spring was in a position where the seam was right there at the pin. So, when I pushed in, it fell inside. Once I got the swing arm down and out of the way I could see it. I've gotten all that put back together. I've done the rear brakes and am airing up my 195/65 16 Conti Vanco... I'll let you know how this "Darkside" thing works out. I appreciate all the feedback...

[sturmannderss]

Just got back. I think this is the way to go!! Bike handles great...

[macmac]

i wondered if that circle spring was installed so the pin could drop.....

SO there is 7,000 + on the bike ??? You were doing a rear tire because the brick was dead right?

Another caution, is the bike should get new gear oil now, which you probably did, but if the bike was dead vertical IMO that is an error. I like to have less oil than 6.2 oz... So I set a hunk of 2x4 under the side stand for a smidgen less oil level.

I change my rear end gea oil at each engine oil change, as that measlely 6 ounces is not going to be much good at book main spec... just not enough oil over all IMO.

But what happens and has all to many times here and at other Kawi sites i go is leaks in the seal at the gear box... What IS happeneing is the seals are flooded (drowning I call it)

Once a seal does that it does that untill one of two things happen. 1 and most common is a new seal, 2 is the old seal is removed cleaned and the shaft it rides is cleaned the used seal like a new one is greased and then re-installed.

When you grease a new seal pretty much you are filling the back side void/well groove.

If you did fill it right up, then a bot should come back out IMO... That can be done with a tubing used as a syphon, or a bit messey laying the bike over with the top filler cap out.

I run apx 5.8 to 6 oz.. No leaks yet in 11,000 miles.

Oils like these tend to expand alot once heat is applied... I might guess the level hot would be 1/2 deeper!

[redjay]

Hi macmac. Have you changed the seal at the final drive that you are talking about in the above post ? I did the driveline service in the Fall and discovered final drive oil (red) in the swing arm tube. I removed the final drive unit from the bike today (2005 Nomad). How do you get to the seal ? Is it just a case of taking off the splined gear to get to it ? How do you remove it ? Do you have to split the final drive by removing the 8 or so bolts where the large spline that engages with the wheel are ? Does the drive have to be re shimmed to get the correct gear backlash ? Thanks.

[sturmannderss]

Yes. I did change the final drive oil. I had the bike level on the stand and filled to the point that it started to run on the threads.

[ringadingh]

You should have left the bike leaning on the stand when you added the gear oil, it may begin leaking again. Id pull the plug while its on the sidestand and let a bit of oil run out. It tends to overfill a bit when the bike is standing up level, even though this is the recomended process.

[macmac]

Originally Posted by redjay

Hi macmac. Have you changed the seal at the final drive that you are talking about in the above post ? I did the driveline service in the Fall and discovered final drive oil (red) in the swing arm tube. I removed the final drive unit from the bike today (2005 Nomad). How do you get to the seal ? Is it just a case of taking off the splined gear to get to it ? How do you remove it ? Do you have to split the final drive by removing the 8 or so bolts where the large spline that engages with the wheel are ? Does the drive have to be re shimmed to get the correct gear backlash ? Thanks.

The oil is red? I have never seen a red hypoid gear oil, bit I suppose it can be about any color. I just hope it isn't ATF.

And no I have never had a leak, and no one I know has brought me a bike that was leaking here, so I have never changed these seals and o rings..

The larger 'Ring Gear' seal is in plain site.

The pinion gear seal is behind the spline and the unit much come apart. You would replace seals and O rings pg 11-11. Part 5 O Ring part 15 O Ring, and seal part 16 at the same time, if you have the book.

You would reuse the same shim stack over again, and torque to spec. Part 18 is the pinion gear bearing housing that holds all of these and the pinion bearings.

You would clean this housing as each new part of it is exposed and keep it clean.

Part 5 is a O ring between the spline pinion shaft and the matching drive shaft collar not shown. (the spline and drive shaft spin as one unit.)

Part 15 is a O ring between the pinion bearing housing and the rear end case.

Part 16 is a seal between the input spline shaft and the bearing housing.

Any and all of these could be leaking.

The short way out if it is just the seal leaking, pt 16 is to pull the input spline nut, washer, shim pack, and spline.

reack in to the now exposed seal with 2 or 3 long decking screws, AND NOT running these screws hard up into the bearings behind the seal, and pull the seal out any way you can.

If you find it will not move then there is no choice but to pull the rest of the bearing housing.

While I haven't done this exact seal set before personally I have done thousands of these seals in other near to like applications, on car, boats trucks tractors chain saw and etc etc..

This one is set in pretty deep, and will just take some time to pull.

I have special tools which have hooks which can be driven into a seal, and the tool has a hammer hit place to wack it and a added on handle to grip and pull at the same time.