Removing rear tire

[csduncansnomad]

After you take out the axle does the rear rim just pull off or do you have to do something to the driveshaft and brake?

[zoom45]

You have to push the tire over to the right to get it to clear the gear then you can drop it down.
Zoom45

[macmac]

Well first you have to remove the rear brake caliper, then tie the caliper up with a line or a bungie, next un-do the braket that holds it (one bolt). If you have clearance to with draw the axel then, with out removing a muffler at least, then you can begin to extract the axel.

The first part that will fall is the caliper bracket, then the spacer next to it.

With the axel then removed, you will have to push the rear wheel off the final drive spline (away from the final drive)

I do that sitting on the floor using my knees to hold the weight of the tire and wheel.

If you are using the typicl HF or Craftsman lift, before you rdrop the rear wheel it is a wise idea to tie the ft brake in with a bungi or a line to be ON, and block the ft wheel. The loss of the rear wheel weight could upset a lift of this type.

With the wheel pushed off the spline it will fall, so be there to catch it. There is another spacer inside the final drive hosuing to get too, and make sure you get it, clean it grease it and re-install it.

The book say at each 7,000 miles to service the swing arm bearings and ck the U joint, plus lube the drive shaft at both ends. In A room called Preventive Maint, there is a write up I did.

That write up is missing that getting a new drive shaft boot is a wise idea. My 1600 is a 2006 and that blasted rubber boot is giving up life a tad early as i see things.

[macmac]

I just read your other thread on doing a CT. It is even more important to do the swing arm service since it will be a very long time before you are back in the area again.

I strongly suggest you do this service, and have 2 new swing arm seals, probably 2 new head pipe to head exhaust gaskets, a new rear axel cotter pin, a stiff high quality marine grade chassi grease for the swing arm bearings and 3 spacers, moly lube for everything else including the rear wheel splines.

If this is a 1600 there are needel bearing to lube on the top shock mounts, and the lower mounts should be siliconed or rubber lubed.

About 1/2 of the U Joints didn't get grease in one plane of travel from the factory, and you simply must know if the U Joint is any good or not.

When it comes time too install the new tire on the wheel under the bike, probably to squeeze the tire in no air will help.

[AlabamaNomadRider]

+1 on what said. Very good advice on what you need to do.

[csduncansnomad]

Tks for the advice it helped alot was a 27mm wrench to take off axle bigger than I thought. Can't wait to try the ct on bike.

[macmac]

I can't tell who knows what, so I try to add in stuff guys mmight miss. Another tip is do not mix up the 4 final drive acorns with the 4 shock acorns. Both are for 10mm studs/bolts in thread size, so they can sort of interchange. You won't like that if you do it though.

I found out by mistake, since i toss all the hardware in a box.