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03-30-2015, 04:24 PM | #1 |
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Oil question
I changed oil in my 1500 nomad. I thought I put in the right amount with filter. But when I stand the bike upright the sight glass appears to be full or over full. Where is it supposed to be in the sight glass. Would over filled make the clutch slip. And Im using mobil 1 high mileage synthetic 10w40. Are synthetics ok for these bikes. Thanks for all the replies.
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03-30-2015, 04:28 PM | #2 |
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Half to three quarter up the sight glass would be good. check the level when the bike is upright, not on the sidestand.
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03-30-2015, 04:37 PM | #3 |
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Synthetic oil is fine. I use the same oil.
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03-30-2015, 05:06 PM | #4 | |
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Quote:
Look on the back of the oil container. If it lists "JASO MA" it is safe to use. Do not assume normal car/truck motor oil is safe to use....it may not be. More info here: http://www.oilspecifications.org/jaso.php I checked Mobil 1 website for the oil you are using....it appears it is NOT safe for wet clutch bikes. https://mobiloil.com/en/motor-oils/m...1-high-mileage
Last edited by ubernomad; 03-30-2015 at 05:11 PM.
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03-30-2015, 05:16 PM | #6 |
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Found more info about Mobil 1 oil from their FAQ page:
So how is Mobil 1™ synthetic motor oil for passenger cars different from Mobil 1 for motorcycles? First, let's be clear about the overall benefits of Mobil 1 synthetic motor oil compared to those of conventional motor oils, whether for passenger cars or motorcycles: • Superior long-term engine protection • Superior high-temperature stability • Excellent low-temperature starting • Outstanding engine performance • Low volatility/low oil consumption It's a little hard to generalize about the difference between Mobil 1 passenger-car motor oils and Mobil 1™ motorcycle oils. That's because not all viscosities of Mobil 1 passenger-car oils have the same levels of zinc and phosphorus, and there are even greater differences between the two Mobil 1 motorcycle oils. • In general, Mobil 1 motorcycle oils have additive packages balanced differently for motorcycle engine and transmission operation. • For passenger vehicles, fuel economy and emission system protection are higher priorities. These require low phosphorus systems and the use of friction modifiers. • Motorcycle oils do not require friction modifiers for fuel economy and for better clutch friction less/no friction modifier is optimum. • Motorcycle oils allow the use of higher levels of anti-wear additives such as ZDDP (phosphorous). |
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03-30-2015, 05:51 PM | #7 |
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Mobile 1 high mileage 10w40 is non energy conserving and is safe for wet clutchs my o8 nomad had 34000 miles on it with No clutch problems when i sold it
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03-30-2015, 06:22 PM | #8 | |
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Quote:
Why not just run slightly more expensive motorcycle-specific oil you know is engineered for a wet clutch system? Is saving a few dollars really that important over knowing you have a motor oil specifically designed and tested in a motorcycle application? |
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03-30-2015, 06:24 PM | #9 | |
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Bingo. That specific oil is rated JASO MA and is safe to use. Look at the spec sheet. http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lub...ycle_Oils.aspx |
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03-30-2015, 06:48 PM | #10 | |
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Quote:
Ride safe.
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04-02-2015, 01:17 AM | #11 |
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The oil debate is the same in every motorcycle forum, same with the break in procedure, lol. I have to agree, JASO MA for clutches, some have found some oils that have similar specs, thing to ask yourself, are they shear stable? The pressures in the transmission gears are pretty hard on oils and fact that the oil is shared with the top end. Where is bob the oil guy? hahaha
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04-02-2015, 10:04 AM | #12 |
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Rotella T-6 synthetic
88,000 miles on my previous Nomad and 18,000 on my present Nomad
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04-02-2015, 12:39 PM | #13 |
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And T6 is jaso ma rated so is the T 15w40 conventional oil
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04-02-2015, 10:16 PM | #14 |
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I have run that oil in my June bought 06 Nomad since after 1000 miles and still do. The level upright should be around 3/4ers in the window.
No this oil won't make the clutch slip. If your clutch is slipping the spring is bad. if you over filled the oil more than to the H mark pull the filter and dump it. Then install it again and run the engine a moment and check the oil in the window again. Engine off of course.
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