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Old 01-30-2015, 11:25 PM   #1
xlock   xlock is offline
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Cart Before the Horse - Electrical Question

Well I just went all in and ordered "Stage One" for the Vaquero I'm picking up week after next. Along with Chucksters Intake/V&H Slip-On Exhaust/Dobeck EJK and some new Kury controls to go along with my old Throttle mod I ordered all the parts to replace the front and rear turn signals with LED utilizing Rivco Signal Mirrors and a Signal Dynamics Plate Frame. I have read both jstephens and c3po's threads as well as the sticky in electrical and I'm still confused...can anyone tell me what I need to do to make the flash rate correct once I remove the OE hardware and install LED signal mirrors and plate frame to replace OE signals? I am sure it has to do with flashers or load equalizers but I need someone to basically draw me a map if they are so inclined
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Old 01-31-2015, 09:17 AM   #2
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You basically have 2 options that are easy, go with a flasher that is rated for LEDs, or go with load resistors, one for each blinker light. If you go with the flasher, you will lose the "self cancelling" feature, but you won't with the resistors. If you go with the resistors I would suggest using 50w 6ohm resistors, that's what I'm using. Here's a link to a set of 4. It even has pictures on how to wire them in.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-x-50W-6ohm...a25170&vxp=mtr
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Old 01-31-2015, 10:57 AM   #3
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Great info; thanks! I wonder if there is an easy spot to hide the resistors on a Vaquero. Anyone have any suggestions?
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Old 02-01-2015, 09:09 AM   #4
VulcanE   VulcanE is offline
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Can't answer on the Vaquero, but on my 1600, the rear resistors are built into the Kuryakyn run-turn-brake controller and I have it zip tied to the rear down tube of the frame that the rear fender is mounted to, the front two resistors I have mounted to the back bone of the frame under the gas tank with zip ties. I did have to solder longer leads to the resistors so I could hook them up in the headlight bucket. You having a Vaquero, you could find somewhere inside your fairing to mount them for the front, and some where under the seat or on the inside of the frame over the rear wheel that is out of sight and out of the way. Just remember, they do generate a little heat while the blinker is flashing, so don't put them near something delicate.
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Old 02-05-2015, 12:21 PM   #5
Jester03zx6r   Jester03zx6r is offline
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Xlock - did everything turn out as you expected? did you purchase the "resistors" or did you go with the "electronic relay "



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Old 02-05-2015, 03:45 PM   #6
Peg   Peg is offline
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The resistors for my LED front signals are zip-tied to the fairing's internal frame. They're well out of the way of everything, but the wiring is nice & handy to where the signals plug in.
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Old 02-05-2015, 05:22 PM   #7
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One advantage of using the electronic flasher is you save power for some other add-on. The resistors will use almost as much power as the old lamps did. The LEDs only require a small faction of the current, and the electronic flasher will not draw much.
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Old 02-05-2015, 10:51 PM   #8
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I decided to go with the resistors to keep the self cancelling function. Parts are arriving daily to my house and I'm picking up the bike next week so we'll see how it goes.
Thanks for the front placement info Peg, I just need to get a look at the bike to figure out where i can mount the rears...still taking suggestions on that if anyone has found a good spot.
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Old 02-06-2015, 04:07 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TX1700 View Post
One advantage of using the electronic flasher is you save power for some other add-on. The resistors will use almost as much power as the old lamps did. The LEDs only require a small faction of the current, and the electronic flasher will not draw much.
This is true about the resistors using almost as much power as the old lamps did, but that is only while the blinker is flashing, once your light stops flashing, the resistor stops working least ways on mine it does.
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Old 02-09-2015, 01:31 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VulcanE View Post
This is true about the resistors using almost as much power as the old lamps did, but that is only while the blinker is flashing, once your light stops flashing, the resistor stops working least ways on mine it does.
True, if current is flowing it isn't wasted.
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Old 03-27-2015, 04:59 PM   #11
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Just a little heads up if you are adding anything to the brake lights. I added some led brake lights and just tied them in to the existing system. This caused problems with the cruise control not working. As I decided to replace all but the factory run/brake light i needed a solution. I got the Kuryakyn run turn brake controller and it performed beautifully. but to avoid any problems, i by passed the entire stock braking lights and added a second brake switch at the handlebar and never had a problem again. My wire from my switch is what i attached to the controller.
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Old 03-27-2015, 06:41 PM   #12
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Thanks for the advice...I'm hoping to tackle everything in the next couple weeks; parts are piling up!
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Old 03-28-2015, 07:54 AM   #13
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Glad to see I am not the only one who had cruise control issues when adding a LED to the brake circuit. I added an trailer isolation relay to correct the problem.
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Old 03-28-2015, 04:35 PM   #14
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I went ahead and ordered the Kury Run/Turn/Brake unit after reading this...in your guys experience will that be all I need besides resistors for the front turn signals? Will swapping The Headlight for LED affect anything? Thanks for any info.
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Old 03-31-2015, 08:05 AM   #15
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Remember with the kuryakyn controller that all of the lights in the rear have to be red the running lights snd turn signals are the same wire so you cant have amber turn signals kinda stupid if you ask me. Should be a seperate wire.
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