Teknykal question

cactusjack · 01-27-2009, 12:50 PM

I replaced my rear tire last Saturday, which provided my first opportunity to look closely at the rear wheel assembly. I noticed on the drive side there are a series of holes maybe 3/4" in diameter circling the hub area. Inside those holes, I could sort of see rubber parts. I also noticed an internal lock ring holding what appears to be a cover over the entire drive side hub area.

Is there some sort of dampener inside the rear wheel to provide a little "give", maybe, to the final drive? So the splined drive sort of "floats" and is less rigid?

Just wondering if anyone knows. This was my first time examining the drive system on a shaft drive bike. Previously, all my experience was with chain-driven assemblies.

misunderstood · 01-27-2009, 03:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cactusjack

I replaced my rear tire last Saturday, which provided my first opportunity to look closely at the rear wheel assembly. I noticed on the drive side there are a series of holes maybe 3/4" in diameter circling the hub area. Inside those holes, I could sort of see rubber parts. I also noticed an internal lock ring holding what appears to be a cover over the entire drive side hub area.

Is there some sort of dampener inside the rear wheel to provide a little "give", maybe, to the final drive? So the splined drive sort of "floats" and is less rigid?

Just wondering if anyone knows. This was my first time examining the drive system on a shaft drive bike. Previously, all my experience was with chain-driven assemblies.

If it's the same thing, I saw a thread over at the VR. They're drive shafts as well. See if this helps any.

http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/j...omad/icon3.jpg

cactusjack · 01-27-2009, 03:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Misunderstood

Quote:

Originally Posted by cactusjack

I replaced my rear tire last Saturday, which provided my first opportunity to look closely at the rear wheel assembly. I noticed on the drive side there are a series of holes maybe 3/4" in diameter circling the hub area. Inside those holes, I could sort of see rubber parts. I also noticed an internal lock ring holding what appears to be a cover over the entire drive side hub area.

Is there some sort of dampener inside the rear wheel to provide a little "give", maybe, to the final drive? So the splined drive sort of "floats" and is less rigid?

Just wondering if anyone knows. This was my first time examining the drive system on a shaft drive bike. Previously, all my experience was with chain-driven assemblies.

If it's the same thing, I saw a thread over at the VR. They're drive shafts as well. See if this helps any.

http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/j...omad/icon3.jpg

Not Really, Dave. That's a link to a small pic of someone's bike.

misunderstood · 01-27-2009, 04:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cactusjack

Quote:

Originally Posted by Misunderstood

If it's the same thing, I saw a thread over at the VR. They're drive shafts as well. See if this helps any.

http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/j...omad/icon3.jpg

Not Really, Dave. That's a link to a small pic of someone's bike.

Oops sorry :-[ Try this http://www.volusiariders.com/viewtop...=84922&start=0

lomax · 01-27-2009, 04:59 PM

....hey CJ
You are correct with your ideas on the rubbers inside the rear wheel coupling. The purpose of those little rubbers is to take some jolt outa the driveline. I can't recall anyone ever talking of a failure with them. I hear it can be a bit of a bitch to remove the coupling if you ever have to. But its just remove a snap ring and grab on and pull hard or use some kinda of puller. :)

VulcanE · 01-27-2009, 06:44 PM

If you are familiar with a "LOVEJOY COUPLING" (used often when connecting a motor to a pump, eg. electric motor to a hydraulic pump), this is very similar. It is designed to give a little flex when torque is applied or reduced, thus saving a little shock on the drive-line gears where they mesh metal to metal.

cactusjack · 01-27-2009, 08:14 PM

Damn. You said "Lovejoy Coupling" and my mind went blank.

dogdoc · 01-29-2009, 12:52 PM

Mine went racing. :-)

waterman · 01-29-2009, 01:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cactusjack

Damn. You said "Lovejoy Coupling" and my mind went blank.

Blank, ya right. It went straight to the gutter!!!! ::)

cyclecat · 01-31-2009, 09:34 AM

Just hope you never have a leaking seal on the differential on a Nomad. Mine was leaking and after taking it to 3 different large stealerships, with large service departments, we were told they just replace the whole diff for about $1500,00. Told them they were nuts and found a machine shop to pull out the old seal and bearing. The machine shop got the seal and bearing out, with a lot of cutting and pounding and 2 hours labour. They put the new seal and bearing in, we came home and left on holidays. Got back from holidays and realized my Ruby was once again leaking. Removed the diff and the damn seal was in crooked. Once again we were on the hunt for someone to take the seal and bearing out, but no luck since there is no puller, the one sold by Kawi does not work, to do the job. My husband and our neighbour invented a type of slidehammer/gear puller and had the seal and bearing out in about 5 minutes, put the new ones in and Ruby hasn't leaked since then.

01-27-2009, 12:50 PM	#1
cactusjack Mega-Contributor Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Where it doesn't snow...ever! Posts: 21,926	Teknykal question I replaced my rear tire last Saturday, which provided my first opportunity to look closely at the rear wheel assembly. I noticed on the drive side there are a series of holes maybe 3/4" in diameter circling the hub area. Inside those holes, I could sort of see rubber parts. I also noticed an internal lock ring holding what appears to be a cover over the entire drive side hub area. Is there some sort of dampener inside the rear wheel to provide a little "give", maybe, to the final drive? So the splined drive sort of "floats" and is less rigid? Just wondering if anyone knows. This was my first time examining the drive system on a shaft drive bike. Previously, all my experience was with chain-driven assemblies. __________________ Scott "Cactusjack" Hanks VBA #00105 H.O.G. #4250060 2011 H-D Ultra Limited 103ci :: 2011 HD Electra Glide Ultra Limited w/Stage 1 :: Rallies: Mesquite '08\|Custer '09\|Cortez '10\|Crescent City '11\|Kanab '12\|Antlers '12\|Estes Park '13\|Antlers '13\|Orofino '14\|The Dalles '17 Login or Register to Remove Ads
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01-27-2009, 04:59 PM	#5
lomax Advanced Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Morinville, AB Posts: 904	Teknykal question ....hey CJ You are correct with your ideas on the rubbers inside the rear wheel coupling. The purpose of those little rubbers is to take some jolt outa the driveline. I can't recall anyone ever talking of a failure with them. I hear it can be a bit of a bitch to remove the coupling if you ever have to. But its just remove a snap ring and grab on and pull hard or use some kinda of puller. :) __________________ ________________________________ "lomax" 2014 Voyager Mike Donahue Morinville, AB VBA#17 "Every day above ground is a good one!" _________________________________ Login or Register to Remove Ads
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01-27-2009, 06:44 PM	#6
VulcanE Sr. Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Cartersville, Georgia Posts: 4,838	Teknykal question If you are familiar with a "LOVEJOY COUPLING" (used often when connecting a motor to a pump, eg. electric motor to a hydraulic pump), this is very similar. It is designed to give a little flex when torque is applied or reduced, thus saving a little shock on the drive-line gears where they mesh metal to metal. __________________ Cliff "VulcanE" Evans 2005 Blue & Silver 1600 Nomad VBA # 320 VROC # 20381
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01-27-2009, 08:14 PM	#7
cactusjack Mega-Contributor Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Where it doesn't snow...ever! Posts: 21,926	Teknykal question Damn. You said "Lovejoy Coupling" and my mind went blank. __________________ Scott "Cactusjack" Hanks VBA #00105 H.O.G. #4250060 2011 H-D Ultra Limited 103ci :: 2011 HD Electra Glide Ultra Limited w/Stage 1 :: Rallies: Mesquite '08\|Custer '09\|Cortez '10\|Crescent City '11\|Kanab '12\|Antlers '12\|Estes Park '13\|Antlers '13\|Orofino '14\|The Dalles '17
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01-29-2009, 12:52 PM	#8
dogdoc Top Contributor Join Date: Jul 2007 Posts: 5,263	Teknykal question Mine went racing. :-)
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01-31-2009, 09:34 AM	#10
cyclecat Advanced Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Magrath, Alberta Posts: 648	Teknykal question Just hope you never have a leaking seal on the differential on a Nomad. Mine was leaking and after taking it to 3 different large stealerships, with large service departments, we were told they just replace the whole diff for about $1500,00. Told them they were nuts and found a machine shop to pull out the old seal and bearing. The machine shop got the seal and bearing out, with a lot of cutting and pounding and 2 hours labour. They put the new seal and bearing in, we came home and left on holidays. Got back from holidays and realized my Ruby was once again leaking. Removed the diff and the damn seal was in crooked. Once again we were on the hunt for someone to take the seal and bearing out, but no luck since there is no puller, the one sold by Kawi does not work, to do the job. My husband and our neighbour invented a type of slidehammer/gear puller and had the seal and bearing out in about 5 minutes, put the new ones in and Ruby hasn't leaked since then.
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