EJK install question

[Ken Vega]

I received the EJK gen 3 kit from Dobeck last night. Question is, the injector plugs on the kit are not labeled front and rear. Does it matter? There is nothing in the instructions and the plugs are not color coded for front and rear. Just want to make sure so I dont booger anything up.

[redjay]

Send an email to Dobeck ? Do they have a 1-800 number ?

[Ken Vega]

They do, but it is mountain time when they open. I was hoping someone here knew. I am pretty sure it does not matter, because unlike the PCV, you are not mapping individual cylinders.

[redjay]

Someone on here probably knows. I think on the Cobra unit there was an F on one of the leads. Or the F was on the Kawasaki wiring harness. I forget which.

I think it is important once you do determine which one is the front on the TFI unit that you do one connector at a time so as to put the same connector back on the same cylinder from the bike wiring harness.

Is the wiring on the TFI unit longer on one cylinder than the other ?
That would tell you which lead goes to the front cylinder ?

[Ken Vega]

Originally Posted by redjay

Someone on here probably knows. I think on the Cobra unit there was an F on one of the leads. Or the F was on the Kawasaki wiring harness. I forget which.

I think it is important once you do determine which one is the front on the TFI unit that you do one connector at a time so as to put the same connector back on the same cylinder from the bike wiring harness.

Is the wiring on the TFI unit longer on one cylinder than the other ?
That would tell you which lead goes to the front cylinder ?

No they are the same length. I know which is front and back on the bike, brown rear, grey front. Easy enough, but the connectors on the EJK are the same color with no labeling.

[redjay]

RacnRay in Florida would probably know.

Are there any EJK videos on Youtube ?

[Peg]

It doesn't matter which set is plugged into which injector, but it's important to keep each EJK male / female set of plugs with the same injector... While it's not mentioned in the install instructions you got with the unit, in EJK's generic instructions it says:

For multi-cylinder vehicles, it usually does not matter which controller harness connector grouping gets plugged into which injector.

[Ken Vega]

I got her all buttoned up. Hopefully this weekend I can run her and see where we are at. I left the factory settings with the exception of Green/Blue mode. I changed the value from 6 to 1. Bike seems to be running fine. I took it around the neigborhood but could only get to 3rd gear max. No decel pop at all. Running 89 octane at RacnRays suggestion when I first took the bike to his shop to get the throttle mod.

[kpmhspirit]

Originally Posted by Ken Vega

I got her all buttoned up. Hopefully this weekend I can run her and see where we are at. I left the factory settings with the exception of Green/Blue mode. I changed the value from 6 to 1. Bike seems to be running fine. I took it around the neigborhood but could only get to 3rd gear max. No decel pop at all. Running 89 octane at RacnRays suggestion when I first took the bike to his shop to get the throttle mod.

Cool. Let us know how it works. I heading down the same road....Will maybe do a Chuckster intake too.

Thanks

[jase64]

The connector with the yellow wire is for the front cylinder (recommended)
I love my EJK ..The bike never ran better.. I find my bike loves 89 or 87 octane. The higher the octane the more fuel should be added to stop deceleration popping.

[Ken Vega]

Originally Posted by kpmhspirit

Cool. Let us know how it works. I heading down the same road....Will maybe do a Chuckster intake too.

Thanks

Pete, I think I am gonna hold off on any air intakes. I am worried about the knocking noise everyone complains about, in addition, my understanding is the open intake improves top end full throttle. I dont ride like that, at least not since I had my sport bikes in my 20s. I cruise now. I added a k&n filter to the stock air box. I am not looking for big gains just smoother running and cooler temps with the fuel processor. Was impressed how easy the install was of the EJK. I took off the right side dog bowl and raised the rear of the tank with a towel to get my big mitts under there and run the wires neatly. The rest is plug and play. Tested before bolting everything and she started right up. Only took a spin in the neighborhood but she feels more responsive and I could not make her pop, just a nice backdraw from the pipes on decel, just like my 1500 classic but a deeper tone. Sounds like a muscle car. Almost the same decel burble the flowmaster mufflers on my Hemi charger make. I am happy. I will report back after my ride on Saturday. Gonna run maybe 100 miles or so.

[Ken Vega]

Originally Posted by jase64

The connector with the yellow wire is for the front cylinder (recommended)
I love my EJK ..The bike never ran better.. I find my bike loves 89 or 87 octane. The higher the octane the more fuel should be added to stop deceleration popping.

Jase, I called Dobeck performance and spoke to Matt. Nice guy. He told me it does not matter as long as the correct males and female connectors are hooked up. It is simply a loop back to the controller.

[Peg]

They really do look after their customers... I had follow this follow up email from them:

My name is Patrick and I am writing you in order to follow up on your order of an EJK fuel controller. I am just trying to catch up with you about how the controller is working for you, and to make sure that you are happy with its performance. If you have a chance, please call me or email me with your comments.
Thank you for choosing Dobeck Performance.

I asked them why I had red & green flashing error light at idle... Patrick replied:

Paul,
I talked with one of our techs about the blinking red and green light. That is the normal “bad connection” signal, except on the Voyager 1700. The ECU on the Voyager 1700 is a little different than most ECU’s on the market. The programming in that particular ECU uses a “batch fire” system at idle. This means that it is firing like a 2-stroke engine. For this reason, the controller thinks that there is no injector signal at idle. As soon as you touch the throttle, the injectors get the alternating signal that the controller is used to and immediately kicks into operating mode. The controller sounds like it is working exactly as it should. If you have any trouble with it, or, if you need to adjust fueling at idle for some reason, please let us know and we will do everything within our power to rectify the situation.

As far as the green/blue setting is concerned, you are essentially getting the controller to kick in and add fuel as early as possible with it set at .5. Take a look at the interactive demonstration at the bottom of the EJK website. It is our best tool for teaching people how the controller is working. It is at the bottom of this webpage.

I hope this has helped to answer your questions. Please let me know if you have any further questions.
Thank you for choosing Dobeck Performance.

I was impressed with that.

[rick6375]

When I 1st got mine I noticed I did not get a steady green, but a red and green. Called them and was told its the way the Vulcans are programmed, but I should get steady lights above idle. I do and havent had an issue at all with it.

[Ken Vega]

Originally Posted by rick6375

When I 1st got mine I noticed I did not get a steady green, but a red and green. Called them and was told its the way the Vulcans are programmed, but I should get steady lights above idle. I do and havent had an issue at all with it.

I think red and green means no signal coming from the injectors, this usually happens when the ignition is only in the on position but the bike has not been started. Once the bike is started the lights should go back and forth green (like knight rider) for a few seconds then steady green, mine its the first 2 LEDs when warming up.

I had also asked him, why when I rev, from a stand still in nuetral, the lights only remain green up to maybe the 3rd LED if I rev hard. I saw a viseo in youtube where a guy did the same and his all lit showing the different color zones. Matt explained that the bike has to detect LOAD otherwise I could rev all day in nuetral and it would not change LED colors.

I am just going to leave it to the experts, ride the bike today and see if she needs any adjusting beside what I already did with the green / blue setting.