Starts, dies.

[ppgflyer]

If you only have 1.75v on the sensor wire with the VDS disconnected then check the voltage supply to the ECU and it's ground connection, that voltage should be around 5v when the VDS is disconnected. There is a separate ground connection with a diode in the circuit for the VDS supply which also goes to four pins of the ECU. Maybe the connection is high resistance or maybe the diode is faulty.

[minst7877]

Can the sensor wires be jumped to see if the bike will run?

DC

[Puddlejumper]

Have already jumped the sensor wire going direct back to the ECU. Made no difference. Bike still dies within 5 to 7 seconds. Will recheck voltage and ground to ECU this week as time allows and post results. Thanks.

[gillisfire]

Hay Puddlejumper, hopefully you have gotten your bike running correctly. I had been following this thread out of curiosity of what the problem may be. Do you have any updates?

[Puddlejumper]

OK, back working on the nomad. First of all, a big thanks to Ross for his time, help, and the use of his nomad in checking out my ECU. Took ECU and fuel pump to charlotte on Thur. afternoon and checked ECU in Ross's nomad. ECU good, check fuel pump which seems to be good also, praise the Lord as these two items are the most expensive concerning the fuel injection system. With that information now certain, will be looking at other things as time allows. Do not have to be in a big hurry as have purchased another ride already. Any other ideas will be appreciated. Again a big THANKS to Ross, I greatly appreciated what you have done for me.

[macmac]

I still think you have a wicked air leak by passing the the throttle plates. These are called vac leaks by the industry. If you blow off a vac lose, or where one was capped off then there is un-metered air enough to lean out a mix so fast that the injection spurt will burn off and then the engine starves for fuel. Cuts out.

[kawboysix]

Mac how do you know everything. Not being sarcastic either. Seems you've always been there and done that.

A little carb and choke spray around the throttle body gasket and vacuum lines is an easy trouble shoot. Try it and let us know.

[macmac]

Originally Posted by kawboysix

Mac how do you know everything. Not being sarcastic either. Seems you've always been there and done that.

A little carb and choke spray around the throttle body gasket and vacuum lines is an easy trouble shoot. Try it and let us know.

WD-40 used to work even better. I may have rebuilt 1,001 air cooled VW engings 500 Volvo B-18 and B 20 Engines, 100 MB engines 4 ckys and 6, 400 BMW 1800cc and 2000cc engines, 40 Porsche 356 engines 25 porche 911 engines 300 912 engines 2 914's. 2 Bently 80 XKE Jag engines, 1 triumph stag, many 1200 and 1500 spitfire, TR-4 etc many MGA, many Hillman, Voxhaul, 1 Jensen Healy, 25 Austin B-100 and 3000's, 1 Morris minor, many Asustin America, some Morgans, 3 Citeron SM's with masseratti V 6 cyl engines and 6 single down draft webber carbs on it. 6 Citeron DS 23. Hundreds of Saabs 2 stoke 95's 4 stroke 96's I forget the sprts car model's name with the same V-4 engine as the 96 but it will come to me and had a fiberglass body, then the Saab 99's 900's and 9000's. I forget the name of a 3 wheel pick up truck from Japan that could max out at 39 MPH

One Unimog from Logan Airport. many M Benze, Audi 3, 4, and 5 clyinder engines.

I know Su carbs models 4 and 6, Solex carbs, Stromberg, Cv carbs, Amal carbs, side draft Webber. down draft Webber, down draft holly, carter etc etc

I know 12 dcv systems as generators both pos and neg grounds , alternators brush type, and brushless. I have worked for Ciggartte Marine on 454 twin engines to build, rebuild and tune up. I have built (4) Chrystler 331 hemis for marine app, which have forged cranks not cast and one turns clock wise while the other turns counter clockwise.

Used to work for Avco Lycoming on small prop planes with boxer engine a lot like VW air cooled. Worked on magnetos for Ford T's. Found out why a hot rod willies was drawing down a battery over night. Every wire and cable in this was the same color bright yellow. Someone just did it all over in one color. The battery cables were both the same yellow as every single other wire in the wagon. Turned out the tach was hot all the time.... No light nothing to show it was ON, but it was ON .

I do chain saws bikes weed wackers you name it i can do it. I may have left out a few things. Like FIAT I don't like Fiat now and i didn't like them back when. This isn't the first time these for crap sheet boxes have been in the USA but i do hope it is the last.

Fix It Again Today and or Fix It Again Tomorrow.

The best thing you can do with a FIAT is buy it in spring, weld the doors closed cut off the roof and fill it with water for a bird bath lawn ornament. Then in Fall haul the rusty hunk of steel to the bone yard where they will crush it up and send it to china.
I refuse to work on them anymore. Say you put in a clutch cable, the next thing to break will be the weld on the clevis hook at the pedal. And rust??? Holy Molly will they rust.

[macmac]

Originally Posted by kawboysix

Mac how do you know everything. Not being sarcastic either. Seems you've always been there and done that.

A little carb and choke spray around the throttle body gasket and vacuum lines is an easy trouble shoot. Try it and let us know.

Or the short answer is i have a magic crystal ball

[kawboysix]

my old man is a mechanic and just does shit and it comes together. I know a lot of the basics but times I can't do something, he just makes it look easy. Reminds me of you. I stopped doin it for a living cause I had a family young and went to work where ever someone would pay me another dollar so I ended up in the donut shop parkin lot like that with my head spinnin and wish I stayed with the auto shop. It's where my heart is.

Don't wanna steal another thread. up to ya and thanks for all the pointers and info, you're a valuable member here.

[macmac]

I steal threads all the time. I think it's expected. Maybe not welcome. I have Snap On in SAE, Metric, and British Standard and it costs as much as a house. This is how i raised my son and paid for the damned divorce too.

[kawboysix]

Originally Posted by macmac

I steal threads all the time. I think it's expected. Maybe not welcome. I have Snap On in SAE, Metric, and British Standard and it costs as much as a house. This is how i raised my son and paid for the damned divorce too.

And raised me he did, and still is. God love him. He never had to pay for a divorce though. 44 years and countin. I haven't figured out if their passionate or just to stubborn.

He fixes cars by feel and ear. don't need a mic or feeler gauges and torque wrenches any more. He just knows. It's a beautiful thing.

[trosco]

Roger, your very welcome. Was glad to help. Hope we get a chance to get together as we discussed.
Been thinking about your problem. Seems to me that you need to determine if it is a fuel flow (or air to fuel mixture) or ignition issue. (personally I am leaning towards fuel flow but slightly less certain since pump seems good)
Rightly, folks cautioned you about to much use of either starting fluid although personally, I wouldn't worry about running off either for 15-20 seconds but that is just me and from time to time I do dumb stuff. But, if you got a Windex type trigger squeeze sprayer you could put a cup or two of regular fuel in it. Then pull the RH Air cover off so that the throttle body was revealed. Then you could prop the throttle open about a 1/4 way, crank her over and when it fires spritz some fuel into the throttle body. (sort of emulating what the injectors should be doing) Be careful no to feed to much fuel but see if it will run for about 30 seconds that way. Then confirm that it will only run 5-7 seconds with out the fuel spray.
If it keeps running then your problem is fuel delivery (or air to fuel ratio). If it is a vacuum leak then the extra fuel will utilize the extra air and the engine will just run a bit faster. But if it cut's off at 5-7 seconds even when adding the fuel then something is shutting down the ignition side of the process. This won't tell you what the problem is but it might narrow it down a bit???
Just thinking and though I'd share. Good Luck.

[Puddlejumper]

Thanks Ross, I am not sure right now what is going on. I put everything back together Mon. afternoon. Forgot to hook fuel line up, and when filled up with fuel, fuel began to run out the pump outlet, which had never happen before. Pump cycles but when try to crank will not start. Pulled plug out of rear cylinder and plug is dry, no gas residue at all on it. Also when turn ignition on battery voltage drops to just over 9.0 volts. I am charging the battery tonight, Tues. Is it possible I could have a battery developed a bad cell within 15 months? If battery has bad cell could that possibly be part of my problem?

[cnc]

9 volts when you just turned on the key or 9 volts while cranking, either way unlikely there would be enough voltage for it to fire.
You say the plugs are dry yet you have tried you pump and ecu on Ross's bike at it was fine. Have you given any thought to plugged injectors, just throwing that out there.