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Old 07-05-2012, 08:16 PM   #61
markclark57   markclark57 is offline
 
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Update: I've been getting tired of this PMS (parked motorcycle syndrome) . . . F#☆✖✠∞n finally the parts are all in and Grace is on the lift at the local dealer. I should have her back tomorrow.
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Old 07-05-2012, 08:18 PM   #62
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Congratulations on the good news.
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Old 07-05-2012, 08:19 PM   #63
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Old 07-06-2012, 04:00 PM   #64
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Congrats. I was following this and it's good to see you can have your ride back without a really punishing bill.
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Old 07-06-2012, 04:07 PM   #65
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This is "tomorrow", Mark. You get Grace back yet? Hopefully, you're not posting cuz you're out riding. Two thumbs up!
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Old 07-06-2012, 04:48 PM   #66
markclark57   markclark57 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hammer View Post
Congrats. I was following this and it's good to see you can have your ride back without a really punishing bill.
The bill is truly punishing . . . even took my beer money. (and I'm Irish!)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Monkeyman View Post
This is "tomorrow", Mark. You get Grace back yet? Hopefully, you're not posting cuz you're out riding. Two thumbs up!
They "hope" to have her finished by closing? ? ?
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2006 Vulcan 1600 Nomad "Grace" (Mark's)
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Old 07-06-2012, 04:48 PM   #67
macmac   macmac is offline
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For Utah.

When a bevel gear bearing decideds to go it just does. Good oil and not too beat up can help, since the bearing is living in engine oil.

The first sign will be a mushy clutch lever. This is because the bad bearing is letting the gear get too hot.

The gear and bad bearing heat the engine case and the brake fluid in the clutch slave boils. As the fluid boiled it gasses out and the gasses are trapped in the slave body and in the line. The bubbles create a sort of foaming in the hydralics line and slave body, and that's the end of a working clutch system, untill it cools. The Clutch Spring is fine still being far from the heat, on the other side of the engine.

The fluid is ok too, just needing to cool off.

By the time the bevel gear is howeling the oil seal in the engine case is melting and will start leaking oil. If the oil gets hot enough it can flash fire and burn down the bike completely.

Engine mods and car tires have nothing to do with this, as many Vulcans and Nomads have suffered a bad bevel bearing before and had no mods or car tires.

This is simply one of the items to check when doing a swing arm lube service. You simply grab the spline from the bevel gear where the pin is that locks up on the drive shaft, and see if the bearing on the spline is any good or not about the same as most any other bearing. You also shift the tranny into neutral and spin the spline feeling if it is free or if it feels gritty.

It's a real tuff call on what bike, and when and etc to predict a failed bearing.

The problem here was the bearing spun in the case, which has to be a part of the fix and has to have a cost in terms of machine work, and that of taking the engine out of the frame.

This bearing is under the strain of getting the bike to be moving. So if you ride like granny wants there is less stress, and if you ride like the little punk kid at the end of the street, that bearing take more stress, and one will fail before the other.

I was near this place, as I got to see the Grand Canyon myself once, and I doubt I would have done much different out in those boonies.

I might have stopped and let things cool, but then my wife ride 2 up with me, and um err maybe I wouldn't be as interested in getting 200 miles down the road, and a cooling period might not be a bad idea so long as I go beat the bushes looking for snakes!

The point being if you loose clutch pressure, stop and let it cool, and be heading to a repair shop ASAP. Also ck the oil level instantly.

I run full syn oil in 10w-40 cut with 10w-30 for 1/2 qt and live in NH. I change that oil each 3,000 miles whether it needs it or not. I hope my bevel bearing never fails, but it gets checked when the swing arm is off.
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Old 07-06-2012, 05:34 PM   #68
markclark57   markclark57 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by macmac View Post
For Utah.

When a bevel gear bearing decideds to go it just does. Good oil and not too beat up can help, since the bearing is living in engine oil.

The first sign will be a mushy clutch lever. This is because the bad bearing is letting the gear get too hot.

The gear and bad bearing heat the engine case and the brake fluid in the clutch slave boils. As the fluid boiled it gasses out and the gasses are trapped in the slave body and in the line. The bubbles create a sort of foaming in the hydralics line and slave body, and that's the end of a working clutch system, untill it cools. The Clutch Spring is fine still being far from the heat, on the other side of the engine.

The fluid is ok too, just needing to cool off.

By the time the bevel gear is howeling the oil seal in the engine case is melting and will start leaking oil. If the oil gets hot enough it can flash fire and burn down the bike completely.

Engine mods and car tires have nothing to do with this, as many Vulcans and Nomads have suffered a bad bevel bearing before and had no mods or car tires.

This is simply one of the items to check when doing a swing arm lube service. You simply grab the spline from the bevel gear where the pin is that locks up on the drive shaft, and see if the bearing on the spline is any good or not about the same as most any other bearing. You also shift the tranny into neutral and spin the spline feeling if it is free or if it feels gritty.

It's a real tuff call on what bike, and when and etc to predict a failed bearing.

The problem here was the bearing spun in the case, which has to be a part of the fix and has to have a cost in terms of machine work, and that of taking the engine out of the frame.

This bearing is under the strain of getting the bike to be moving. So if you ride like granny wants there is less stress, and if you ride like the little punk kid at the end of the street, that bearing take more stress, and one will fail before the other.

I was near this place, as I got to see the Grand Canyon myself once, and I doubt I would have done much different out in those boonies.

I might have stopped and let things cool, but then my wife ride 2 up with me, and um err maybe I wouldn't be as interested in getting 200 miles down the road, and a cooling period might not be a bad idea so long as I go beat the bushes looking for snakes!

The point being if you loose clutch pressure, stop and let it cool, and be heading to a repair shop ASAP. Also ck the oil level instantly.

I run full syn oil in 10w-40 cut with 10w-30 for 1/2 qt and live in NH. I change that oil each 3,000 miles whether it needs it or not. I hope my bevel bearing never fails, but it gets checked when the swing arm is off.
Thanks Mac, I've used full synthetic at regular intervals since the first service. I bought Grace new and she's never missed or been late for a service. When the clutch went out, it was soft on one pull and totally gone on the next. I checked all 3 "brake" fluids (front brake, rear brake, clutch) at Kanab along with engine oil (clean, clear, proper level) and coolant when I stopped for fuel. The spot I got to in North Flagstaff was IMHO the first safe place to stop.

I haven't got the total bill with taxes and all yet, but we had to raid the savings bonds to pull it off and they are not "matured" for another 6 years. I'm sure aching for that next ride.
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Old 07-06-2012, 05:42 PM   #69
macmac   macmac is offline
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Mark That is what I would expect. The fluid boiled in the slave cly, and when you used it you moved foam back up the line. A hydralic system can't work with any foam from gassing out or air. The system needs to be fully liquid, a solid.

The difference between gassing out and real air is the gasses will re-condence upon cooling. Air will given enough time work up into the master all by itself, but the time factor isn't human really, and the lever/ linkage must be moved for air to pass thru certain orfices.

And or in other words I can bleed brakes even if all the bleeders are missing havin' been rusted away, but it is a techy trick.

A bevel gear is just a risk we all take. There is no way to guess who's will go bad or when.

My wife is hangin over my shoulder and sayin all I wrote in a 'Dusky Voice'! She says this is how you guys should hear it too!

I think I have to go attend to some business............
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Old 07-06-2012, 07:24 PM   #70
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Just picked up Grace . . . Grand total including tax = $2757.49

It's 104° here now and Grace and I need to get reacquainted, so I'm going to go find some wind.
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Old 07-06-2012, 07:33 PM   #71
elvis   elvis is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markclark57 View Post
Just picked up Grace . . . Grand total including tax = $2757.49

It's 104° here now and Grace and I need to get reacquainted, so I'm going to go find some wind.
Very glad you got Grace back and are ready to roll.

Picked up this thread very late as I was road tripping' myself. Despite all the trouble, you saw some great country. Were you describing/riding on the road where Navajo Bridge is?

Anyways, easy on Grace for a little while.
 
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Old 07-07-2012, 01:25 AM   #72
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Does the bike ride any differently? Everything feel good?
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Old 07-07-2012, 01:39 AM   #73
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$2700.Ouch.

Glad you got her back on the road.
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Old 07-07-2012, 06:08 AM   #74
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Congrats for being back on the road!
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Old 07-07-2012, 08:14 AM   #75
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Good to hear that your back on the road Mark!
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