Help with new 1999 Nomad

[mick56]

I have a 99,and i've pulled most things apart in the area's that you have been in.I cant imagine where that part goes.Somebody probably has an APP,where they can punch in that photo and get a response.Way above my capabilities though.

[gleam]

Originally Posted by mick56

I have a 99,and i've pulled most things apart in the area's that you have been in.I cant imagine where that part goes.Somebody probably has an APP,where they can punch in that photo and get a response.Way above my capabilities though.

Yeah right, I wish. I was starting to work on a sort of index of pictures like that with the Virago last year. Might still do that some day.

Swingarm
I got the swingarm back together, and it doesn't look quite right. You can see the spacers with it all put back together, so that means water can see it too. I checked in the Clymer manual and it shows a step with the picture below to 'replace the cap'. I have no memory of such a cap, and I don't have one in my parts bin. It definitely looks like some sort of seal should be covering that, but I took this apart quite a while ago and I don't remember exactly if it was like this or not. Does anyone know what this cap is all about? It's not in the Kawi parts diagrams either. I thought it might've been a later upgrade but it's not on the 2001 diagrams, and for some reason on the FI Nomads there is no 'battery case' diagram where these bearings are on mine.

Edit: Just saw in my video notes that when I took it off there wasn't any caps on there. Looks like there should be something though, hopefully someone knows.

[minst7877]

The rubber piece looks like the one on the inside edge of the stator cover

DC


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[Jllm02199]

Originally Posted by gleam

Yeah right, I wish. I was starting to work on a sort of index of pictures like that with the Virago last year. Might still do that some day.

Swingarm
I got the swingarm back together, and it doesn't look quite right. You can see the spacers with it all put back together, so that means water can see it too. I checked in the Clymer manual and it shows a step with the picture below to 'replace the cap'. I have no memory of such a cap, and I don't have one in my parts bin. It definitely looks like some sort of seal should be covering that, but I took this apart quite a while ago and I don't remember exactly if it was like this or not. Does anyone know what this cap is all about? It's not in the Kawi parts diagrams either. I thought it might've been a later upgrade but it's not on the 2001 diagrams, and for some reason on the FI Nomads there is no 'battery case' diagram where these bearings are on mine.

Edit: Just saw in my video notes that when I took it off there wasn't any caps on there. Looks like there should be something though, hopefully someone knows.

I just had mine apart for the 3rd time. No rubber seals. That picture looks like mine.
Looks like you are missing the rubber boot on The drive shaft.

[gleam]

Okay that helps. If I can find one that fits, I might put an o-ring on it. I know the real seal is supposed to be there to seal, but it just doesn't look right and it certainly can't hurt anything to put one there that I can think of.

The boot is just pulled back, yeah cause I wasn't quite done.

Handlebars
I was going to buy a set of risers recommended on this forum, can't recall the name of them atm but the price was very reasonable. There's no room left in the build for something like that anymore, now, so that'll have to wait. Does anyone happen to know how much rise and pullback you can add before the cables and hoses become an issue?

[redjay]

It looks to me like you have to add shims between the swing arm and the frame to reduce the side play on the swing arm ? Could be wrong.

I believe Ringadingh knows where to get the shims ?

[mick56]

I have adjustable risers,and am 4in up and 3in back with no problem.

[gleam]

Because I was able to find a shim in town, but had to wait until Monday for it to arrive, I decided to switch the order of things around a bit. I was gonna wait until it was on its own feet to pull the side cover and look for the gear, but with four days of downtime I decided to make a stand for the front end instead.

Plastic Oil Gear
It's not good news. There's a nylon gear in there. I'll edit this post in a bit with a picture once it's ready. What are my options now? The judges oil gear doesn't sound too appealing with the failures I've read. I'm not really happy about having to spend a hidden $400 dollars on this garbage now, but if I don't all my money and effort are wasted anyway. I hope someone can help me out here. If you say Kawi pretends there isn't a problem, I don't imagine I can just order up a gear and take a few things apart, eh? If the clutch has to come out, do I need a special tool for this? Thanks, please help if you can, this is beyond ridiculous at this point.

[minst7877]

To totally change the POG (Plastic oil gear) to the SOG (Steel oil gear) the motor has to come out and the cases split. That was the reason behind the JOG (Judges oil gear)which didn't require splitting the cases as it used the original gear shaft. There are also those who are welding a steel gear to the original shaft. Many have just acquired a donor engine with the steel oil gear in it and swapped motors. This will be cheaper than having your motor split. Good luck

DC

[gleam]

Originally Posted by minst7877

To totally change the POG (Plastic oil gear) to the SOG (Steel oil gear) the motor has to come out and the cases split. That was the reason behind the JOG (Judges oil gear)which didn't require splitting the cases as it used the original gear shaft. There are also those who are welding a steel gear to the original shaft. Many have just acquired a donor engine with the steel oil gear in it and swapped motors. This will be cheaper than having your motor split. Good luck

DC

Thanks a lot for the quick reply. Doesn't sound like something I could do myself, is that why you said cheaper? Most people need to have someone else do this? I would attempt it myself but it sounds a bit too far out of reach for my current skillset. If you have to pull everything apart, that is.

My only option is going to be to ride it this year and hope for the best. I might be able to do something major with it over the winter but there's no way I'm going to be able to this summer. Is there anywhere you can put an oil pressure guage to have some sort of warning that it's failed?

[mick56]

That cog looks in good condition to me,and is unlikely to give you any immediate trouble,and there is an oil light on the tank to warn you of any problem.But it will be on your mind until you fix it,so you have 2 sensible options,one is the Judges cog,the other is to buy a Kawasaki cog and have the shaft machined off,leaving a cog with a hole in the centre,and fitting it as Phil Halling did.I met Phil last year,and told him about the POG on his bike,he came up with the best fix for it that i know of.Here are his words. "Just sorted my oil gear out, got the replacement complete with shaft, had the shaft machined off to leave an exact hole the size of the existing shaft, broke the plastic gear off - then heated up the new steel gear and slid it on and put 3 tack welds on it.costings wise, it was about £55 for the gear and a new RH gasket, then £75 to have it machined and took us 2.5 hrs to do. In my mind a better fix than Judges oil gear and a lot easier than splitting the crankcase or dropping the oil. The only testing bit was stopping the existing shaft from going back into the case a few mm, we got over that by using one of those little round magnets on a car ariel type thing - the magnet was the same diameter as the shaft, so the hot (expanded) new gear just slid down the "ariel" and popped straight onto the shaft.
Pity they dont sell just the gear with a 12mm hole in the centre"
So its not such a major drama as you might think.The clutch basket needs to come off to get at the POG,so you might want to check out how to do that.Good luck with it mate.

[minst7877]

I changed out my POG for a JOG. I then put almost 11000 miles on the bike when the screws that hold the lock plate broke and the gear started oscillating and failed. I chose to have the engine rebuilt so that I would have peace of mind. Having someone do this cost me almost $3000. You can find used motors for right around $1500 then would have to pull your old one out and put in the donor.

That gear looks to be in a lot better condition than mine when I changed it. Just remember that when these fail there is no warning. It either works or it doesn't.

DC


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[mick56]

Originally Posted by minst7877

I changed out my POG for a JOG. I then put almost 11000 miles on the bike when the screws that hold the lock plate broke and the gear started oscillating and failed. I chose to have the engine rebuilt so that I would have peace of mind. Having someone do this cost me almost $3000. You can find used motors for right around $1500 then would have to pull your old one out and put in the donor.

That gear looks to be in a lot better condition than mine when I changed it. Just remember that when these fail there is no warning. It either works or it doesn't.

DC


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The cog can either wear the teeth out,or shatter.Wearing the teeth out is a gradual process,and the oil light on the tank may not let you know about it until the engine has been short of oil for a while.A shattered cog should put the light on straight away.The only answer for your peace of mind,that i am aware of, is to change the cog.Phill Halling has come up with the best/cheapest solution, that i have come across.

[gleam]

The replies really helped me out with this one here. Finding that gear really took the joy out of this for a few days there but it's going better now. Getting that old gasket off was a chore but it's all buttoned up now and it's on with the rebuild. I've got the forks on and tomorrow I will be cutting a socket to make a tool to torque down the stem nut. I don't know how I could set the bearing without having the handlebars on there and also without having a wrench version of the tool to slide under the top triple, so I'm doing it this way. I'll set it to the two stages that I've read about on here, and then see how it feels with the bars on.

Risers

Originally Posted by mick56

I have adjustable risers,and am 4in up and 3in back with no problem.

I've decided to get risers after all. I have this set of 4 1/2" straight risers bookmarked so I must have read about them here. I saw the same seller also has these similar ones with more pullback. I'd really like to get these and I was wondering if anyone else has these installed. From what mick56 said they should be pretty close to what the hoses need for length but it'd be good to know before buying.

[minst7877]

Just be aware that you will have to drill out the top triple tree to accommodate the bolt that the Harley risers use. It's not a problem and will open up a lot of choices in risers.

DC


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