Nomad stearing oscillation

[mick56]

I just remembered, i read somewhere, maybe on gadgets or some other similar page, about unclamping the fork legs, losening the wheel spindle, applying the front brake and pushing down hard on the handlebars, this causes the forks to align themselves correctly, worth a try !

[Rasta]

mick,
Are you listening to anything people are saying mate????Tighten the freakin' stem bearing and forget about it!!! I don't know how many people have said they tightened it doing the bounce method and problem was solved!! Yes Gadgets page says when changing the front tire to do the shock compression by putting the front wheel against a block and pushing without applying the breaks. This is done to align the wheel but listen to the guys that have tightened the bearing and have taken care of the wobble problem.
End of story!
Thanks

[mick56]

Originally Posted by Rasta

mick,
Are you listening to anything people are saying mate????Tighten the freakin' stem bearing and forget about it!!! I don't know how many people have said they tightened it doing the bounce method and problem was solved!! Yes Gadgets page says when changing the front tire to do the shock compression by putting the front wheel against a block and pushing without applying the breaks. This is done to align the wheel but listen to the guys that have tightened the bearing and have taken care of the wobble problem.
End of story!
Thanks

Yes i am listening, and i have tried ALL the suggestions on here, the magic handlebar bounce method may have worked for you, and other,s but MY bike still has the problem, so i am going to try the compression method, if thats ok with you, now thats, End of story!

[Rasta]

Mick you have done the stem bearing twice which is well and good.....actually not well and good since it did not take care of your problem. When this was done you said you put it back together and torqued it the recommended specs. Here is where the problem comes in....we are saying that the recommended specs is the problem because that is not tight enough to eliminate the wobble problem So you might ask what is the correct torque then Mr Smarty Pants since you seem to know it all? Well I don't have the magic torque number for you but that is were the bounce method comes in. I just about guaranty it if you do that and not do the wheel alignment you are talking about the problem will be resolved. I did replace my front tire a couple weeks ago and I did use gadgets method to make sure it was aligned.

[talon]

Same story as VulcanE. A little more torque on steering stem fixed mine and it has not reoccurred. But be careful, too much torque can screw up the bearings too.

[ubernomad]

Originally Posted by mick56

I just remembered, i read somewhere, maybe on gadgets or some other similar page, about unclamping the fork legs, losening the wheel spindle, applying the front brake and pushing down hard on the handlebars, this causes the forks to align themselves correctly, worth a try !

Interesting method to align the front.

Just curious....how is it going to get misaligned given the fact the front fender, forks, wheels axle, and steering assembly all work together to self-align the front end? I mean, there are no adjustments built into the mounting holes for the fender, fork tubes, etc. I would assume that if all the parts and pieces are bolted together correctly the overall assembly should be aligned relative to the frame and centerline of the bike, right?

[mick56]

Originally Posted by ubernomad

Interesting method to align the front.

Just curious....how is it going to get misaligned given the fact the front fender, forks, wheels axle, and steering assembly all work together to self-align the front end? I mean, there are no adjustments built into the mounting holes for the fender, fork tubes, etc. I would assume that if all the parts and pieces are bolted together correctly the overall assembly should be aligned relative to the frame and centerline of the bike, right?

I take your point, but i had my forks rebuilt last year and there are clamps on both the top and bottom yokes that hold the fork legs, so there was every chance that they were not realigned correctly, as i said, i read somewhere how to do that, i am not sure where, but it would seem that it would,nt have to be more than a fraction out of line to make a difference.

[mick56]

Originally Posted by Rasta

Mick you have done the stem bearing twice which is well and good.....actually not well and good since it did not take care of your problem. When this was done you said you put it back together and torqued it the recommended specs. Here is where the problem comes in....we are saying that the recommended specs is the problem because that is not tight enough to eliminate the wobble problem So you might ask what is the correct torque then Mr Smarty Pants since you seem to know it all? Well I don't have the magic torque number for you but that is were the bounce method comes in. I just about guaranty it if you do that and not do the wheel alignment you are talking about the problem will be resolved. I did replace my front tire a couple weeks ago and I did use gadgets method to make sure it was aligned.

You obviously did,nt read my post where i said that i had tried ALL of the suggestions on here, and if i did know it all i would,nt be seeking advice on here, now would i jackass !

[Rasta]

Here is what mick is talking about.It on the Gadget page on doing "Front Axel Installation"

Installation
We'll assume your bike is still where you left it with the front end pointing skyward.
1. If you've had a new tire mounted, check the pressure. From the tire store it's almost guaranteed not to be your normal pressure so make the adjustment now. It's easier than when the wheel is on the bike.
2. Grab the spacers you set aside with the axle earlier (still keeping track of left and right sides) and put a little bit (emphasis on little) of grease on the spacer where it will fit into the grease seal (not on the portion you'll be able to see when the wheel is mounted). The grease will help lubricate and protect the grease seal which spins on the spacer as you roll down the road. Put the spacers in the wheel. (as noted above the speedometer drive replaces the spacer on bikes with mechanical speedos. Be sure the drive is locked into the wheel properly before tightening the axle nut or you'll have a bound up front wheel).
3. Roll your wheel between the axles. Grab the axle and put a thin coating of grease on it (but not on the threads of the 1600 axle). Insert the axle while lifting the wheel. This is where you'll appreciate only having that wheel a tiny bit off the ground.
This question seems to come up quite a bit on various motorcycle forums: "Do I tighten the pinch bolt and then the axle bolt or the other way around?"
The simple answer is, axle bolt first and then the pinch bolt. This will ensure the axle has been pulled all the way through both forks before being locked down on the (for Vulcans) right side.
4. To ensure your fork tubes travel up and down smoothly without one being slightly higher than the other, tighten the large axle nut on the 1500, the axle itself on the 1600 to the manufacturers spec ( 79.6 foot pounds) but leave the clamp bolt loose.
5. Reinstall your brake caliper(s). You checked the pads for wear right? Tighten the 12 mm bolts to 25 foot pounds.
5. Get the front wheel back on the ground and with the front tire butted against something solid (wall, garage door, cabinet...) repeatedly pump the front end up and down as far and fast as you can both pushing and lifting on the handlebar at least half a dozen times. DO NOT use the front brake because the calipers clamping on the disks might prevent the legs from centering themselves. This procedure will align the fork tubes for the smoothest possible operation.

When you're finished with the above tighten the axle pinch bolt (25 ft lbs) and go ride with your forks riding at exactly the same height, possibly for the first time ever.

[Rasta]

Mr Smarty Pants was referring to me mick so chill mate! I like jackass! It fits me!

[ubernomad]

Originally Posted by Rasta

Here is what mick is talking about.It on the Gadget page on doing "Front Axel Installation"

Installation
We'll assume your bike is still where you left it with the front end pointing skyward.
1. If you've had a new tire mounted, check the pressure. From the tire store it's almost guaranteed not to be your normal pressure so make the adjustment now. It's easier than when the wheel is on the bike.
2. Grab the spacers you set aside with the axle earlier (still keeping track of left and right sides) and put a little bit (emphasis on little) of grease on the spacer where it will fit into the grease seal (not on the portion you'll be able to see when the wheel is mounted). The grease will help lubricate and protect the grease seal which spins on the spacer as you roll down the road. Put the spacers in the wheel. (as noted above the speedometer drive replaces the spacer on bikes with mechanical speedos. Be sure the drive is locked into the wheel properly before tightening the axle nut or you'll have a bound up front wheel).
3. Roll your wheel between the axles. Grab the axle and put a thin coating of grease on it (but not on the threads of the 1600 axle). Insert the axle while lifting the wheel. This is where you'll appreciate only having that wheel a tiny bit off the ground.
This question seems to come up quite a bit on various motorcycle forums: "Do I tighten the pinch bolt and then the axle bolt or the other way around?"
The simple answer is, axle bolt first and then the pinch bolt. This will ensure the axle has been pulled all the way through both forks before being locked down on the (for Vulcans) right side.
4. To ensure your fork tubes travel up and down smoothly without one being slightly higher than the other, tighten the large axle nut on the 1500, the axle itself on the 1600 to the manufacturers spec ( 79.6 foot pounds) but leave the clamp bolt loose.
5. Reinstall your brake caliper(s). You checked the pads for wear right? Tighten the 12 mm bolts to 25 foot pounds.
5. Get the front wheel back on the ground and with the front tire butted against something solid (wall, garage door, cabinet...) repeatedly pump the front end up and down as far and fast as you can both pushing and lifting on the handlebar at least half a dozen times. DO NOT use the front brake because the calipers clamping on the disks might prevent the legs from centering themselves. This procedure will align the fork tubes for the smoothest possible operation.

When you're finished with the above tighten the axle pinch bolt (25 ft lbs) and go ride with your forks riding at exactly the same height, possibly for the first time ever.

Huh. Cool info thanks. I'm replacing my front wheel bearings and brake pads so I'll have to give this a try when putting everything back together.

[mick56]

Originally Posted by Rasta

Mr Smarty Pants was referring to me mick so chill mate! I like jackass! It fits me!

Got me proper bumswizzelled here mate ! dont know who,s firing off at who !

[mick56]

Originally Posted by Rasta

Here is what mick is talking about.It on the Gadget page on doing "Front Axel Installation"

Installation
We'll assume your bike is still where you left it with the front end pointing skyward.
1. If you've had a new tire mounted, check the pressure. From the tire store it's almost guaranteed not to be your normal pressure so make the adjustment now. It's easier than when the wheel is on the bike.
2. Grab the spacers you set aside with the axle earlier (still keeping track of left and right sides) and put a little bit (emphasis on little) of grease on the spacer where it will fit into the grease seal (not on the portion you'll be able to see when the wheel is mounted). The grease will help lubricate and protect the grease seal which spins on the spacer as you roll down the road. Put the spacers in the wheel. (as noted above the speedometer drive replaces the spacer on bikes with mechanical speedos. Be sure the drive is locked into the wheel properly before tightening the axle nut or you'll have a bound up front wheel).
3. Roll your wheel between the axles. Grab the axle and put a thin coating of grease on it (but not on the threads of the 1600 axle). Insert the axle while lifting the wheel. This is where you'll appreciate only having that wheel a tiny bit off the ground.
This question seems to come up quite a bit on various motorcycle forums: "Do I tighten the pinch bolt and then the axle bolt or the other way around?"
The simple answer is, axle bolt first and then the pinch bolt. This will ensure the axle has been pulled all the way through both forks before being locked down on the (for Vulcans) right side.
4. To ensure your fork tubes travel up and down smoothly without one being slightly higher than the other, tighten the large axle nut on the 1500, the axle itself on the 1600 to the manufacturers spec ( 79.6 foot pounds) but leave the clamp bolt loose.
5. Reinstall your brake caliper(s). You checked the pads for wear right? Tighten the 12 mm bolts to 25 foot pounds.
5. Get the front wheel back on the ground and with the front tire butted against something solid (wall, garage door, cabinet...) repeatedly pump the front end up and down as far and fast as you can both pushing and lifting on the handlebar at least half a dozen times. DO NOT use the front brake because the calipers clamping on the disks might prevent the legs from centering themselves. This procedure will align the fork tubes for the smoothest possible operation.

When you're finished with the above tighten the axle pinch bolt (25 ft lbs) and go ride with your forks riding at exactly the same height, possibly for the first time ever.

Good shout nipper, thats my weekend boxed off then.

[Rasta]

Originally Posted by mick56

Got me proper bumswizzelled here mate ! dont know who,s firing off at who !

That's what we are trying to do on this forum is learn how to take care of our machines and pass on what we have learnt along the way.

[toogun]

Originally Posted by mick56

Got me proper bumswizzelled here mate ! dont know who,s firing off at who !

Say what??? Never heard the term "bumswizzelled" before. Not sure I want to be bumswizzelled either! Is it a medical condition? Does it have anything to do with Gay Pride??? BACK AWAY!!!