Idle Adjustment

[redjay]

The one on Amazon is the way to go, good price too.

[Yellow Jacket]

Both of those are the Doebeck TFI plug and play.
The Kuryakyn just has their label on it.

Plug and play means they connect to the existing wires with crimp on connectors. While they work, I personally don't like the crimp on connectors. They can work loose or in the worse case, cut into the existing wires.

You do have the option of cutting off the connectors and soldering the wires which is what I would have done if the one I bought had been the plug and play version.

Yeah, I know. When it comes to wiring I'm anal. It comes from my Air Force training and 30 plus years as a Field Engineer in the computer industry.

[macmac]

Yes to both. You found the rebranded TFI and i was unable in the few seconds i spent to tell if it is the older type solder on or the other at amazon which is plug n play.

I am assuming you would prefer the plug n play. The solder on is only soldering for 2 wires. These 2 wires are a bit difficult to reach though, but i still prefer that to plug n play, probably due to I can solder and at the time there was no other choice.

If it happens solder on is what you get, my way is to solder on pig tails to the 2 wires at the ECU, and then use std shielded spade connectors, so the TFI can be removed completely from the bike in seconds.

[macmac]

Originally Posted by Yellow Jacket

Both of those are the Doebeck TFI plug and play.
The Kuryakyn just has their label on it.

Plug and play means they connect to the existing wires with crimp on connectors. While they work, I personally don't like the crimp on connectors. They can work loose or in the worse case, cut into the existing wires.

You do have the option of cutting off the connectors and soldering the wires which is what I would have done if the one I bought had been the plug and play version.

Yeah, I know. When it comes to wiring I'm anal. It comes from my Air Force training and 30 plus years as a Field Engineer in the computer industry.

YJ, I don't think he can cut this up other than to shorten wire or route wire some place unusual.

So far as i know there are 2 plug in that mount directly on the injectors and then the injector connectors plug in to the TFI on the top.The plug n play get power straight from the injector pulse unlike the old solder on.

The last wire besides these 2 connector plugs is ground, and can go to any decent ground.

That's it un do both injectors and add on the plugs to TFI and ground it.

I think guys have done this will just raising the gas tank.

[Bull Durham]

Originally Posted by Yellow Jacket

Yeah, I know. When it comes to TC I'm anal.

Yellow,

You said "anal" but what does that have to do with TC?

Mac,

I like to solder, do it for all my stuff, so I don't have a problem with that. That's a good idea about the pig tails on it.

I wonder if the solder type are even cheaper than the plug and pray.

[Top Cat]

Originally Posted by Bull Durham

Yellow,

Mac,
I like to sodomize, do it to all my friends, so I don't have a problem with that. That's a good idea about the pigs I might get on some.

I can edit words too Bull.

[Bull Durham]

Originally Posted by Top Cat

I can edit words too Bull.

Good one, TC! Was just making sure you were paying attention! Always love your humor on the forum!!

[macmac]

Bull, I have no idea if you can buy the old fashion type. If you can it will have 4 wires.

One to come On with the key, one to be ground, and 2 to the ecu.

The wires on the ECU are not for the color blind by any means! I have no idea if you are, and I am not, but still it is hell with the pastle colors they have there.

There is a green/gray blue and a green/pink and then there is a gray/pink and telling which pink is which is hard.

For me i get my Bride, and then because she is a woman and I don't believe her I still probe the terminal number to the correct wire for a reading of Closed circuit.

Then i cut wires and set to solder. I reverse the male/female insulated terminals too, but it makes no difference which goes where.

The only reason I cut the ECU wires is because i can't get shrink wrap on the wire with out the cutting.

So once the wire is cut the first thing I do is add shrink wrap, then I solder the wire back with the pig tail on it.

Then do the next.

Run the TFI wire thru the cover back where the velcro will be, plug in the TFI to the ECU, solder on the red wire to the running lights for a keyed circuit, and ground to the battery hold down acorn nut on the left.

The 2 hardest things are seeing which pink wire is the right one and getting the blasted battery out on a 1600.

Worst battery box I have ever seen on anything yet. The 1500 was cake.

Some engineers aren't!

[Bull Durham]

If I have any problems with the pink wires, I'll just ask TC...

I know I started out with why wouldn't you put a tach on a bike, here's my other gripe: Why wouldn't you make the bike seat hinged, like on the old bikes? I think it's ridiculous to have to use a #8 wrench on the seat to be able to get to your battery!

And trying to get the damn little bolt back in the hole without stripping the threads, nuts. I ended up getting the same size bolt, just a little longer, and come up from underneath the rear fender with a flat head screw, so I can just "drop" the seat onto the bolt thru the seat hole, then it's a lot easier to put a nut on and tighten it down.

Thanks for all the info Mac, I'm going to look give it some serious consideration when I get back from my trip.

[BC RED VAQ]

I have a 2011 vaquero with7400 miles and18 months old has a wobble in front end at low speed jacked the front end up and a little play in the forks put new tires onit 1400 miles ago. Took it to the dealer and was told normal wear and tear pay to fix it 7400 miles seams to soon to ware out. Put new tires under it at 6200 miles michlin comander ll front and back. Called rep he said same thing need your help on this one Thanks All.

[macmac]

BC RED VAQ...... I have no idea what you did but your in the 1500 / 1600 room on a thread about being anal

This has nothing to do with wobble unless the wobble is anal! Is It?

This I think is where you want to be
http://www.vulcanbagger.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=29894

i sure hope so...

Bull I am not to sure TC can fix up any thing pink. I am fairly certain that is correct and true info no matter what anyone else says.

As to hinged seats i hated them, BUT i agree instead of a bolt there should be a quick release latch, and 2 dawgs that lock up on the other end.

Something happened in the industry, but I can't put a finger on it.

What i think is a lot of quasi engineers supposedly graduated and not one of them had any idea about hands on anything. Never had a hang nail, never got a blister, and most important never got into any grease or dirt, much less rust.

And last the real kicker never rode a real motorcycle. As much as I like the 15's and 16's Nomads they are full of pet peeves.

On my 81 triple yammi i can work on the valves and or the cam and it's cahin with the engine in the frame, and I can do most anything I want with the case in the frame to include yank the pistons. But i like that the seat pops off with one latch.

I don't like the way the cam tensioner is on Vulcans, and am not happy that the water pump is chain driven and or that is shares a oil and water seal on the same shaft.

I really don't like no possible way to set fuel mix from the factory and or the the fact there is no possible preload on the swing arm. There is more....

But never the less i think the Nomad still delivers the best bang for the buck.

I am not sold on the 1700's in any shape and form.. At best they may be a slight bit faster. But as i see it are not the long distance 2 up bike the 15's 0r 16's are.

[Top Cat]

Originally Posted by Bull Durham

If I have any problems with the pink wires, I'll just ask TC...

What a funny guy
Real men don,t do pink

[BudMan]

Originally Posted by Yellow Jacket

Plug and play means they connect to the existing wires with crimp on connectors. While they work, I personally don't like the crimp on connectors. They can work loose or in the worse case, cut into the existing wires.

You do have the option of cutting off the connectors and soldering the wires which is what I would have done if the one I bought had been the plug and play version.

Originally Posted by macmac

YJ,
So far as i know there are 2 plug in that mount directly on the injectors and then the injector connectors plug in to the TFI on the top.The plug n play get power straight from the injector pulse unlike the old solder on.

The last wire besides these 2 connector plugs is ground, and can go to any decent ground.

Correct Mac. The Dolbeck TFI plug-n-play does not use crimp connectors.
The connectors are matched to the connectors on the injectors.
I agree with Bob, if it meant using crimp connectors, then solder.
But this setup just plugs in. It's as solid as the bikes factory connection. You don't need to solder.

[IntheWind]

Originally Posted by macmac

This is the right one, but the costs have gone up a lot.......
http://dobeckperformance.com/shoppin...uct.asp?pid=70

Check around for better prices or seek used ....

Both the TFI units I have/had were old fashion solder on, which are no longer made. The last time i installed a TFI both were choices and i went for what I knew best the solder on. But the Plug N' Play has to be easier and faster.

IMO this is the unit to have on a Nomad that has no O2 sender... You plug it in fire up the bike, set pot 4 to 9:00 on it's dashpot and then run the engine to full warm riding if you like to set pot 1 to best RPM, refine pot 1 to best, and then go either to a dyno or know how the bike was (your good in this case) and make 1/4er miler runs in 2nd and 3rd to fund Pot 2's best for passing.power.

Pot 3 is OFF since the ECU does that part on Nomads well enough.

This will stop ping once set up, allow the engine to run on the correct fuel, and get you the most bang for the buck, cuasing the engine to run cooler.

You may also get better MPG's.

The next step it you ever do is after market the exhaust for better air flow and swap out the intake for a right side feed for more power.

My 06 gets apx 10% more power, and gets 42/44 MPGs running only 87 octane and is cooler. I am not sure if living in NH means the fan almost never runs or the engine is just that much cooler.

Once before I ran with a rear car tire i was getting 46/48 MPGs and still with the more power.

Now all that came as a surprise on my 01. I was used to engine mods as i am a x foreign car tech and making engine mods was a part of life for me and customers. never before had i ever added fuel to any engine and got better MPG's, never not once.

That was very telling. That proved the current factory setting is WRONG, and in fact the 1500 and 1600 strain to just idle and the PING is due to being overly lean. Ping is a little gremilin with a very big hammer and a sharp chisel.

Back in the 70's i saw a lot of cars that ping chopped up valves, vales seats and cut holes in pistons.

I don't add a lot of stuff either.. I did add some used saddlebag rails uppers and lowers, more lights because this is Moose bear and Deer country, with flocks of wild turkey too. More rear red lights for Run/ brake so maybe I don't get rear ended by texters!

A inexpensive tach for grins. A $6.00 womans bag as a screen bag from wallmart, and related other cheap junk for power take off and a volt meter. I like knowing the charging system is up and working.

With those miles after this trip it is time to look at the your cam chain extenders. I am not sure of your techy skills but never the less it is time to check.....

I have a 1981 Xs 850 sh Yamii triple too. It's not on the road but it sure could be. It needs a battery,, oil filter, and 2 tires if it is gonna do over 30. Not so fast as that 900, but plenty fast enough for me.

It has engine mods i did too, including 3 sets of sterling silver shims in the carbs. The sheet metal was a precision thickness and I had it on hand.

Phat Performance still carries the solder on version. That's the one I bought, cost me $168.00.

My settings are 1:30, 1:30, off, 9:00. Running very smooth. I haven't checked my mileage yet but it doesn't appear to have changed.
_________
IntheWind
'08 Nomad

[Yellow Jacket]

Originally Posted by BudMan

Correct Mac. The Dolbeck TFI plug-n-play does not use crimp connectors.
The connectors are matched to the connectors on the injectors.
I agree with Bob, if it meant using crimp connectors, then solder.
But this setup just plugs in. It's as solid as the bikes factory connection. You don't need to solder.

That makes a difference. I couldn't tell from the pictures that was how they connected.

Should have found my glasses I guess.