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Old 12-14-2020, 07:51 PM   #31
andyvh1959   andyvh1959 is offline
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Have you confirmed how the 1700 speedometer gets the speed signal? I'd assume the speed sensor feeds a signal to the speedometer. According to the 1700 manual, the sensor reads 29 teeth per one shaft rotation. If the 1600 speed sensor does not produce a similar signal that may be part of the issue. Though, if the 1600 speed signal is slightly different than on the 1700, I'd assume the speedometer would work but perhaps not at the right calibration. On the 1700 the speed sensor does send a signal to the gauge set on the light green/red stripe wire. On the 1600 the speed sensor sends a signal to the speedometer on two wires; the light green/red stripe and the light green/black stripe wires. Not sure which of those two are the one needed to send a signal to the 1700 gauge set, but the signal goes to the gauge set via this diagram:
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Old 12-16-2020, 05:35 PM   #32
Kawi_addict   Kawi_addict is offline
 
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Ok so an update. Still haven't messed with it. 3 kids ,job, house remodel, and non stop b.s. all related to the first three keep me out of the garage. But, the other day I did manage to go for another ride. The battery tender was plugged in and the bike started. As soon as I started the bike there was an battery warning light that came on the voyager gauges. So the computer is talking to the gauges to some degree... Unplugged the tender and light went away. I have a low fuel light, neutral indicator, high beam indicator, turn signal indicators, fuel gauge and oil pressure light all work...... I'm gonna get that speedo working if I have to pay nasa to do it. Though I am Determined to get it on my own if possible
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Old 12-16-2020, 05:37 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andyvh1959 View Post
Have you confirmed how the 1700 speedometer gets the speed signal? I'd assume the speed sensor feeds a signal to the speedometer. According to the 1700 manual, the sensor reads 29 teeth per one shaft rotation. If the 1600 speed sensor does not produce a similar signal that may be part of the issue. Though, if the 1600 speed signal is slightly different than on the 1700, I'd assume the speedometer would work but perhaps not at the right calibration. On the 1700 the speed sensor does send a signal to the gauge set on the light green/red stripe wire. On the 1600 the speed sensor sends a signal to the speedometer on two wires; the light green/red stripe and the light green/black stripe wires. Not sure which of those two are the one needed to send a signal to the 1700 gauge set, but the signal goes to the gauge set via this diagram:
You may have just solved.my issue!!! I'm gonna try both wires and see if one makes a difference thank you!!!!!
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Old 12-17-2020, 12:46 PM   #34
andyvh1959   andyvh1959 is offline
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You're welcome and good luck. Some more differences between the 1600 and 1700:
1. On the 1600, the speed sensor gets power from the speedometer unit. On the 1700 the speed sensor gets power separate from the gauge unit. So it may be a matter of powering the speed sensor on the 1600.
2. On the 1700, the toothed section on the tranny output shaft that the speed sensor reads has 29 teeth. On the 1600, near as I can tell from an image on page section 11 page 2 , the tranny output shaft that the speed sensor reads has 20 teeth. See the attached image of the 1600 output shaft.

So the 1600 speed sensor should be able to send a signal to the 1700 gauge set. But, the signal will be different, probably lower, indicating a lower speed relative to the 1700 gauge set. In the 1600 factory manual, section 16, pages 80 to 84 it gives detail on the pinout at the gauge connections. Page 16-83 details the sensor output signal. On page 16-84 it details the power output signal from the gauge set to the speed sensor. If the speed sensor on your 1600 is not getting six volts input power it won't send an output signal. Once it has power the issue may be the signal is not calibrated to the 1700 speedometer.

My bet is once you power the 1600 speed sensor the 1700 speedometer will respond. But my bet is also the 1700 speedometer will read an incorrect speed, either lower or higher than the real speed. Probably lower because the 1600 output shaft has less teeth per rev than the 1700 output shaft. Less teeth per revolution should mean less output voltage from the 1600 speed sensor. Less voltage, lower relative speed. However, and this may be a lucky result; the final ratio of the 1700 tranny (sixth gear) is lower than the 1600. So lets say for 60 mph the output shaft of the 1600 is spinning faster than the output shaft for the 1700. The 1600 has fewer output shaft teeth to read, but is spinning faster than the output shaft for the 1700. That, or you might be able to modify the output signal of the 1600 sensor and calibrate it to the required value for the 1700 speedometer to show the real speed: https://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=134983.0
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Old 12-17-2020, 02:16 PM   #35
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1700 in 6th gear at 70 mph = 2500 rpm. 1600 in 5th gear at 70 mph = 2863 rpm.

That difference amounts to a ratio of 1.142 :1 that the 1600 spins faster. The teeth the 1700 speed sensor reads is 29, speed sensor on the 1600 reads 20 teeth. So for both at 70 mph, given that the 1600 spins faster at the output shaft but the sensor reads fewer teeth per rev, the voltage signal from the sensor may be close. If you get the 1700 speedometer to read road speed, a speed app on your smart phone can check your real GPS derived speed versus what the speedo says the speed is. That may be enough for you to know how much lower or higher it registers your road speed. Or, it may give you the data needed to find a way to calibrate the 1600 speed sensor signal to the 1700 speedometer to get the speed right.

Found this on a search for speedometer calibration, for the 1700 Voyager:
http://shop.12oclocklabs.com/index.p...&product_id=59

Hopefully your next steps and results will prove we're both on the right track. If so I am all that more geared up to get the 1700 gauge set built into my fairing project. Next step is the tachometer. On the 1700 the tachometer gets the rpm signal from the ECU, the ECU gets the signal from the crankshaft sensor. So the tough part is what kind of signal the tachometer needs. The 1600 also has two crankshaft sensors (section 16, pages 47 to 49 in the service manual). The front sensor signal is on the black wire/yellow stripe. The rear sensor signal is on the black wire/reed stripe. The sensors put out a voltage signal; front sensor 2.2v minimum, rear sensor 2.0v or more. The sensor resistance should be between 380 to 560 ohms. The Classic/Nomad doesn't have a tach but the Mean Streak does. Assuming the crankshaft sensors on the Classic are the same as on the Mean Streak, they send a signal through the ECU to the tach, that may be the same logic to get the 1600 crankshaft sensors to send a signal to the 1700 tachometer.
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Last edited by andyvh1959; 12-17-2020 at 03:01 PM.
 
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Old 12-18-2020, 05:56 AM   #36
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What he said.
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Old 12-18-2020, 06:30 PM   #37
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Well if nothing else you’ve found the cure for insomnia... Good luck with all that other stuff, sounds really hard.
 
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Old 12-21-2020, 01:33 AM   #38
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Actually he's a fucking genius! It sounds easier than ever. I need an ignition hot wire to the 1600 speed sensor, with a resistor to get it to send 6 volts to the 1600 speed sensor constantly. From there I don't give a damn if the speedo is off 10-40mph. Just so long as I get a response from it, I can improve from there. The tach is very similar I'll find the wire from ecu that would run mean streak tachometer. Knowing kawi the wire Is on the nomad and just capped off. Anyway I will take that wire run it to the voyager gauges and same thing. Once I have gauge life tune voltage, amperage, and signal speed from there.....

Andy you are an absolute badass!!!!!
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Old 12-21-2020, 01:42 AM   #39
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That link to the speedo calibrator is awesome. I would absolutely pay $80 to be able to turn up my out put pulse from 20per rev to say 24.21( just a wild ass guess) per rev and get dead center in 6th gear with the actual speed. Or maybe if it's out put is 29per rev then the final drive difference wouldn't matter bc it is still reading actual roatatioms I just turned up the pulse rate so the sensor matches the gauges needs......... This just got allot more fun
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Old 12-21-2020, 02:01 AM   #40
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The only difference b/w mean streak and nomad wiring harnesses including the harness numbers are the same.... Is these two rectifiers I circled in the picture..... I plug in those rectifiers my tach will.likely come to life!!!!
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File Type: jpg Screenshot_20201221-005753~2.jpg (9.0 KB, 3 views)
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Old 12-21-2020, 03:04 PM   #41
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Way cool. I can't claim any genius status, WAYYYYYY too many times I'm swearing at myself in the shop for being such a dumbass. That's usually after I've modded something and THEN determine how I should have done it. Hope this works for you as I am planning the same gauges conversion (different fairing) for my full bagger build of a 2003 Classic.

"The difference between stupidity and genius is that genius has its limits."
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Read more: https://www.wisesayings.com/stupidit...#ixzz6hIB3ki4u
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Old 12-23-2020, 12:38 AM   #42
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I have been researching my wiring diagram as best I can tell there's a black and yellow (ground) a light green and red(unknown) and a red and black wire going to the speed sensor...... None of the schematics I have found show which wire should be supplied with 6 volts...... I know black and yellow is a universally ground for almost all Kawasakis so it leaves the other two...... Hoping I can get this dialed in on the long weekend
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Old 12-24-2020, 12:44 PM   #43
andyvh1959   andyvh1959 is offline
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When I look up the wiring harness from the Nomad and Mean Streak, at least for the 2006 model year, the wiring harness are not the same part number. The Nomad harness part number is 26031-0478 for $422.06. The Mean Streak harness part number is 26031-0225 for $446.08. I found this on ronayers.com in the OEM parts section. Can't tell the difference from the images shown on the website.

So there must be some minor differences, and I assume its for the tachometer circuits from the ECM to the tach. There may also be some minor fuel injection or ignition control logic difference between the Mean Streak and Nomad. The ECM for the Nomad is #21175-0048, $966.33. The ECM for the Mean Streak is #21175-0011, $951.93. There is a sub-harness unique to the Mean Streak which is for the speedo/tach as they are not mounted on the fuel tank like the Nomad. This shows the harness from the speedo/tach but I'm not certain where it plugs into the main harness. It must connect to the main harness inside the Mean Streak headlight.
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Old 12-28-2020, 12:03 PM   #44
andyvh1959   andyvh1959 is offline
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I found wiring diagrams for the 1500 Mean Streak on the Gadgets page.
https://gadgetsfixitpage.com/article...iring-diagrams
The crankshaft sensors on the Meanie send a signal to the ECM, and then on to the tachometer. The diagram also shows the speed senor (three wires) going to the Meanie gauges, but it shows the speed sensor going to the tachometer which I think is a mistake.

So I assume the signal for the speedometer comes from one one of the two LG/R wires in the harness. On the Meanie that's the Purple or OR/R wire from the sensor itself. On the Nomad that should be the LG/R wire from the sensor, to send the signal to the speedometer.

The crankshaft (pickup coils) are the same for the Nomad and the Meanie. The ECM have different part numbers for the Meanie and the Nomad, so that might be a minor programming issue, because both have the same number of pins in the connector. But, the Nomad uses 36 pins and the Meanie 35 pins. Aside from that there are definite wiring differences between the Nomad and Meanie. Best I can tell the speed sensor gets power from the ECU on the LG/R wire, and the signal goes to the gauges on the LG/BK, both of those are on the harness side of the sensor connection. The BK/Y is of course the ground side. The LG/BK wire in the harness also goes to the gauge panel on the Nomad. So the Nomad just monitors the engine RPM in the ECM without producing a signal to a tach. The LG/BK wire is my guess for the tach signal to the 1700 gauge.

I suggest studying the Meanie wiring diagram from the web address just above, and compare the tach, pickup/crank sensor wires and ECM wires to the similar components on the 1700 wiring diagram. I bet there are enough similarities exist to determine how the speedo and tach on the Meanie and 1700 compare, and apply that to the Nomad with the 1700 gauge set. A lot of jumping around from diagram to diagram, but i suspect the answers are there to find.
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Old 12-28-2020, 07:31 PM   #45
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I didn't use it!! I didn't think it mattered but if the speed sensor circuit is not complete with out it then wtf.... What do I hook it to on the 1700 gauge set??? Getting close! I can feel the progress coming together I just need to think about where I hook into to make it happen

Where do I tie the turn signal speed sensor wire from 1600 into the 1700 gauge set? do I tie it into the regular speed sensor and just have two wires in the same loop?
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File Type: jpg Screenshot_20201029-212043.jpg (8.5 KB, 1 views)
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