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Old 10-14-2016, 01:08 AM   #16
DragonLady58   DragonLady58 is offline
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Well yes, you could accidentally hit the seal, BUT, If your careful, you can stake the edge without moving the seal. If it came out once, it can come out again.
Me, myself, I stake the hole slightly before I put the seal in, which is what I guess I should've suggested to start with, but I didn't.
What you do is get a flathead screwdriver, put the blade of screwdriver 1/2 way on the seal visualizing it in the hole, (but with no seal in the hole), and 1/2 on the alum. around where the seal is driven in. Tilt the very end of the screwdriver handle to where the pushrod would be if everything was installed in the hole (Visualize the centerline of the hole coming up and the very end of the screwdriver handle hitting it) Don't hit it hard, or you could knock a chunk out....
Just tap, not HIT, just tap it firmly in 3 places equidistant around the dia. of hole. What your looking for is 3 slight indentations in the alum., heavier toward the bore where the seal goes in, then fading out as it goes up into the alum. around the hole.
---- DON'T GO SMACKING ON THE DAMN THING WITH A 5 POUND SHOP HAMMER!!!!!!---- USE A BIG SCREWDRIVER WITH A SMALL BALLPEEN HAMMER!!!!! USE SOME FINESSE!
What you are doing is slightly distorting the edge of the hole, making it fit the seal tighter.
I would not use loctite, because when you change out the seal at a later date, the hard loctite can crack off from around the seal, and find its way into some bearings, which would be a bad thing.
You can also use a small, sharp centerpunch, and pop a couple of places lightly inside the seal hole ID, before seal installation, to tighten it up on the seal as it goes in.....

If it slid out without help, if you just put it back in, it could just as easily come back out unless you tighten it up....
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Last edited by DragonLady58; 10-14-2016 at 02:19 AM.
 
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Old 10-14-2016, 11:59 AM   #17
Top Cat   Top Cat is offline
 
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OK I understand what you are saying. It is a little different than I thought, but, I had the seal come out on my 07 and I put it back in with just gasket sealer. It never came out again and I put 88,000 miles on that bike before I sold it.
I like to keep things as simple as possible
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Old 10-14-2016, 04:19 PM   #18
VulcanE   VulcanE is offline
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Mine popped out about a week before our rally this year, and I just cleaned up everything and used some ultra black sealant on the OD. While at the rally, I noticed it leaking again. After getting home I checked it to see if it had popped back out, and found it still in place, but leaking around the rod. Ordered a new one and installed it (with the ultra black) and no more leaking. The old seal had actually shrunk on the OD, so while in place, it wasn't squeezing it around the rod like it should to create a good seal.
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Old 10-14-2016, 09:29 PM   #19
dholmer   dholmer is offline
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Thanks guys for your information. I have a new one ordered and hopefully it will be here tomorrow. I was just going to use the black permatex RTV around the new seal like VulcanE mentioned. I understand what your talking about with the screwdriver dragonlady58. I actually do something similar when installing dowel pins when the dowelpin hole is a little oversized.
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Old 10-19-2016, 09:23 AM   #20
Jllm02199   Jllm02199 is offline
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Thanks BudMan for the info. I will probably use some RTV instead of the silicone, I hear they sometimes push out. I will use the washer trick, but what about the clutch lever pulled down to the grip and wire tied there? Also, where are you getting the part number? I have looked at the local dealers OEM parts finder, and at RockymountainATV.com web site OEM parts finder. Both list #92049-1165. Maybe they changed the number?
If you pull the clutch lever in it will put pressure on the slave cylinder and when you take it of the engine it will blow the inside parts out. What's the point.
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Old 10-19-2016, 09:28 AM   #21
Jllm02199   Jllm02199 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VulcanE View Post
Mine popped out about a week before our rally this year, and I just cleaned up everything and used some ultra black sealant on the OD. While at the rally, I noticed it leaking again. After getting home I checked it to see if it had popped back out, and found it still in place, but leaking around the rod. Ordered a new one and installed it (with the ultra black) and no more leaking. The old seal had actually shrunk on the OD, so while in place, it wasn't squeezing it around the rod like it should to create a good seal.
That's what happens to the seal on the rear end input shaft. The rubber gets hot and hardens. Note: I put a seal in the rearend thats made out of a synthetic material. Got it from Fastenal. Don't know about one to fit the clutch rod application.
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Old 10-19-2016, 11:20 AM   #22
Snake Ranch   Snake Ranch is offline
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Originally Posted by Jllm02199 View Post
That's what happens to the seal on the rear end input shaft. The rubber gets hot and hardens. Note: I put a seal in the rearend thats made out of a synthetic material. Got it from Fastenal. Don't know about one to fit the clutch rod application.
A good bearing house like "Motion Industries" should be able to supply you with a good seal. They will need to know the shaft diameter and the bore diameter, double or single lip and thickness.

So, if you have the old seal, they can usually measure it and give you what you want.

There is a seal material called "viton". It is a redish brown and it is made by Dupont. A little more money but you don't have to worry about it ever again.

When a black o-ring or seal gets old they get hard and lose their elasticity. I have seen them just like glass. This Viton material does not do that.

When I first started working with this material I had removed some o-rings from an engine and they were very distorted, triangle shaped. I tossed them aside. A little later I happened to look at them and they had regained their original shape. And these o-rings had a high number of hours on them but they were still serviceable.

Just my 2 cents worth.
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Old 10-20-2016, 08:41 PM   #23
Jllm02199   Jllm02199 is offline
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Originally Posted by Snake Ranch View Post
A good bearing house like "Motion Industries" should be able to supply you with a good seal. They will need to know the shaft diameter and the bore diameter, double or single lip and thickness.

So, if you have the old seal, they can usually measure it and give you what you want.

There is a seal material called "viton". It is a redish brown and it is made by Dupont. A little more money but you don't have to worry about it ever again.

When a black o-ring or seal gets old they get hard and lose their elasticity. I have seen them just like glass. This Viton material does not do that.

When I first started working with this material I had removed some o-rings from an engine and they were very distorted, triangle shaped. I tossed them aside. A little later I happened to look at them and they had regained their original shape. And these o-rings had a high number of hours on them but they were still serviceable.

Just my 2 cents worth.
Thanks Snake that is what fastenal provided me.
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Old 12-06-2016, 10:52 PM   #24
scooter1600   scooter1600 is offline
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What happens when you loose the seal inside the hole and cant find it?
pull it down?
or hope for the best?
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Old 12-12-2016, 11:43 AM   #25
mbarr10   mbarr10 is offline
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I went with hope for the best, Not a wise choice but that is what I did. Mine fell inside also. 8 years later and 42,000 miles I forgot about it being in there. But I do remember not to reinvent the wheel, and follow instructions. ( I did not use the right size washer). I hope this helps you sleep at night. I made a mad rush to sign up for the extended warrantee, just incase. It wasted a lot on money in hind sight, but who knows. Every one in a while I get lucky, not often. So from my experience and only my experience in this one, you should be OK. ?
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Old 12-12-2016, 10:16 PM   #26
DragonLady58   DragonLady58 is offline
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Well, theres room on the shaft for it to be there, its not gonna get ground up, or crushed, its just sit in there and rotate, theres nothing for to get caught up in. Just clean the bore good with some carb cleaner, just stick another seal in, put some silicone or sealer on it....
Done deal....
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1500 Meanie, fresh rebuild (sold)
90s BUBF Bobber (sold)
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Old 12-13-2016, 10:45 AM   #27
Vulcan Bill   Vulcan Bill is offline
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Older thread but I'd like to add something. The third time my clutch rod seal popped out I used silicone like the others. That was a long time ago and it hasn't popped out since. I also polished the rod smooth with fine sandpaper and steel wool. The surface was so rough I could see it acting as a rasp and wearing the seal out prematurely. Pay attention to which way you insert the rod. One end is round , the other cupped. The cupped end goes in first.
This seal and the high idle knob location is about the only things about this bike I can think of I feel was poorly engineered.
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Old 05-06-2018, 06:59 PM   #28
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I had a clutch rod seal come loose on my '86 Yammie FJ.; good thing I saw oil spray come from rear wheel going down the road and pulled over before a nasty crash. When I got home I took off the seal cleaned it and the little opening real good . Put a little Permatex on outside of seal pushed it back in place and added a little oil to clutch rod . Lasted until bike was sold (20,000+ miles later)
 
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