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Old 05-22-2013, 08:04 AM   #16
Kawhead   Kawhead is offline
 
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What's going on Ross. You ain't hung yourself have you?
I can prolly get down there Friday, but if you're hunged I don't want to waste a trip.
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Old 05-22-2013, 12:41 PM   #17
trosco   trosco is offline
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Ok, Nomad is back together. Now has, new oil and filter, new coolant, fresh grease in swing arm bearings and end play was still good, greased the splines on drive shaft, checked universal and changed final drive oil. Did the shock mounts at the same time and put new rear tire and new rear brake pads with fresh fluid on. (Note that the Dunlop E-3 160/80x16 went 21,000 miles and was just touching the wear bars) Then changed steering head bearings and races, went to 20w fork oil and added grease to wheel bearings. Put new brake pads on front and did all new fluid also. Battery, front tire and air filter were new last fall so believe other than packing I am ready for the 8,000 mile trip out west that include seeing ya all at the National!!!
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Old 05-24-2013, 04:19 PM   #18
Chili   Chili is offline
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After I fought with my races I borrowed a small mig welder, three little tacks to a washer and then tapped it out from the opposite side. Only wish I had started with that plan instead of fighting with it first.
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Old 09-16-2013, 01:06 AM   #19
hammer   hammer is offline
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I found this post and some others as I plan to do the stem bearing and races this winter. I came across a similar tool in the video, http://www.chaparral-racing.com/Prod.../315-1250.aspx

I thought I would give it a try to see if it would work. Has anybody tried this

This may also seem odd but what is the easiest way to remove the front fender. I have always removed the front fender bolt and just tilted it back to roll my front wheel out. I have fender tips front and back and thought that could be an issue.
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Last edited by hammer; 09-16-2013 at 01:08 AM. Reason: Oops
 
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Old 09-16-2013, 04:31 PM   #20
macmac   macmac is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hammer View Post
I found this post and some others as I plan to do the stem bearing and races this winter. I came across a similar tool in the video, http://www.chaparral-racing.com/Prod.../315-1250.aspx

I thought I would give it a try to see if it would work. Has anybody tried this

This may also seem odd but what is the easiest way to remove the front fender. I have always removed the front fender bolt and just tilted it back to roll my front wheel out. I have fender tips front and back and thought that could be an issue.
Are the bearings and races bad? If not, just grease is all you need to do. And maybe new fork oil.

I am lovin' that 20 w fork oil and the new Avon Cobra. I still need to do a new rear CT over winter, as it is on the way out, but will do for the rest of Fall. never the less my Nomad has never handled better.

If there is a better i wouldn't know of it. The bike for the first time feels like it is super glued to the road.

Now of i could just get better night vison be come 19 years old. Ummmmm get better looking, errr have MORE folding money

And or maybe less plastic body parts....
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Old 09-16-2013, 05:27 PM   #21
hammer   hammer is offline
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I have a slight notch at dead center otherwise the steering turns freely lock to lock. I know a lot of bikes will have that slight notch so I am not really worried about it. I did re-grease the bearings last winter and felt nothing on the races at all.

I just figure while I am taking the front end apart to do forks, why not be prepared for stem bearings.

So what's the easy way to drop the front fender out without scratching anything?
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Old 09-16-2013, 05:45 PM   #22
macmac   macmac is offline
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Well when you do the job, you may as well remove the brakes and then the ft wheel then the fender.

At that point I removed the gas tank. padded up the frame and engine and layed down the top tripple tree handle bar mount upside down, and then removed the head lamp and bucket, tins are around the forks, the fork tubes next, then the bearing nut and then drop the neck out so you can access the bearings and races........
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Old 09-16-2013, 06:29 PM   #23
minst7877   minst7877 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hammer View Post
I found this post and some others as I plan to do the stem bearing and races this winter. I came across a similar tool in the video, http://www.chaparral-racing.com/Prod.../315-1250.aspx

I thought I would give it a try to see if it would work. Has anybody tried this

This may also seem odd but what is the easiest way to remove the front fender. I have always removed the front fender bolt and just tilted it back to roll my front wheel out. I have fender tips front and back and thought that could be an issue.

I saw something similar to this that someone had made out of a piece of metal conduit pipe. I couldn't remember where I found it when I did my stem bearings and races. I was able to use a drift punch but it took quite a bit of patience and sharpening the end of the punch several times. In theory this tool should work if you can get it to catch on the race.

DC
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Old 09-16-2013, 07:51 PM   #24
hammer   hammer is offline
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I may try it to see if it does work. A drift punch or sharpened screw driver seems to be all that the shops are using. Patience I have some of. So much for special tools.
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Old 06-11-2014, 09:44 PM   #25
sshorenomad   sshorenomad is offline
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the botom one is a pain, i played around for hours making a tool that did not work and i wish i had check this before, but i had the same idea, took the mig welder one tack got colder then just a small hit and it fell to the ground amazing the best way by far to do this,

does any body have the part number for the lower oilseal, its the bearing seal for a 2000 1500fi

cheers
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