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Old 10-21-2011, 12:12 PM   #16
Monkeyman   Monkeyman is offline
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Late to the game but the $39 ones are what I bought, too. Should get them today.
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Old 10-21-2011, 07:51 PM   #17
macmac   macmac is offline
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Lets us have a picture or a link to these..... If they have any rubber seals, they are likey junk. That means today they look fine, but will look like hell and split inside 1 year, and you won't be able to buy anymore.

There are 2 rubbers to use. 1 is roofing screw rubber washers which last no less than 25 years, and 2 the faucet washers.

I used the roofing screw type because i had them.

The curve changes where to drill, so you must one way or another account for the height of the rubber spacers you use.

If you simply drop the rack on, line it up and drill, what happens next will make you sick.

You will find the holes you drilled are too close together for use with which ever rubber washers you chose. At that point you will have no choice but to make bigger holes.

The fast way to do this is to tape the paint with a few rows of masking tape 2 inches wide. This allows pencil markings. Once the rack is lined up you can drill the 2 holes as a pair with out any worry. Then mount the rack easy, like finger tight for those 2 bolts and figure the last solo bolt.

That is if this rack has 3 points to stand on. My rack is Kawii after market, which may or not be like your racks.

For guys who fail to consider the arc change and drill they are some wicked bummed out to have to enlarge any holes. I suggest you don't, and get it right the first time.

Not knowing what these are, I really suggest you are dead sure these are what you will live with. There is no real way to go back and no way to change out what you mount.
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Last edited by macmac; 10-21-2011 at 07:54 PM.
 
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Old 10-22-2011, 03:44 AM   #18
Monkeyman   Monkeyman is offline
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Mac---Got mine yesterday. I'll mount them as soon as I can get the stickers off the bags. They seem to be fairly decent quailty although the "rubber" (more like hard plastic) spacers are crap. I can see those rubbing through the bags in about a year. Heading to town today to find some washers and some painters tape (on the bike, of course). Here's a link to the racks http://www.ebay.com/itm/SADDLEBAG-TO...item2eb8a4271e

I'll measure once, then twice (then 3 or 4 more times) then drill the back 2 holes. Hold the front washer in place, then remove the rack and mark the spot under the front washer. Should be dead on then.
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Old 10-22-2011, 09:35 AM   #19
macmac   macmac is offline
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That wasn't what I was expecting..... The bag rails look just like Kawii after market.

So yeah the method you under stand is correct. One more point is these rails get the mounts welded on by a man I think. So far no 2 racks are exactly the same. Your 2 racks are probably not exactly the same.

Once you set up a rack ready to drill do not switch sides ever again. I suggest a bit of tape on one rack, and none on the other. Lets just say the bit of tape is the left rack forever more.

Last take a real hard look at the mounts (welded tube nuts) I have seen many not plumb. All of this can be adjusted for, but if you are not ready to see bolts going in at odd angles it is a little frustrating. I hope yours are plumb.

At this point I am probably prechin' to the choir, but when drilling use a 1/16th bit first as if you were drilling 1/2" steel plate.

This will give the next bit a path to follow, and doing this will reduce cracking and splitting, Once the holes are sized so the bolts can pass, BY HAND with a drill 2 sizes bigger i chamfer the holes inside and outside, for the reason to get rid of 90 degree edges on the hole shoulders. This reduces the chances of bolt threads grabbing a 90 degree corner. Mostly boat builders use this when the boat has more meaning for what ever reason and the builder wants top quailty work.

Driving a long sliver out of a mahogany deck is verbotten.
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