Dead Bike

[ringadingh]

Originally Posted by bedouin418

I am having a similar issue with my '08. I got it out of storage last week. Pulled off the wheels/tires to have new tires mounted & balanced. After getting it all back together, time to fire it up. I had the battery on an automatic battery tender all winter so figured the battery should be fully charged. It fired up almost immediately and ran great, idled smooth. Let it run for 10 minutes or so, shut it off, went in house to get helmet and leathers. When I turned the ignition on, everything lit up, fuel pump on, speedometer needle doing it's cycle. Lookin' good! Hit the starter switch and a slight click and everything went dark. Turned the key off, back on and everything was still black and then lights started to flicker and then after about 20 seconds or so, everything lit up, fuel pump on, hit starter, dead again.
I have found where the click is and I believe it is the starter solenoid, right side of bike behind coolant tank with red cap and 30 amp fuse under it? Every time the bike powers up again, hit the starter and it clicks.
I have recharged the battery, cleaned every connection I can get to in the area of the battery box and put dielectric grease on everything at reassembly, ensuring that all connections are good and tight.
Is my battery pooched? It is 2+ years old. Could the starter solenoid be bad. It is still under warranty so I'm thinking I need to trailer it to the dealer for diagnosis but I hate to find out it's just a bad battery and end up paying the dealer a crazy price for a new battery.
Any ideas? Any all suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

Try to boost it with a car battery, Just make sure the car isn't running while your boosting. If it starts and runs ok, it probably your battery. Yes it could be your starter, but eliminate the battery before you go looking further.

[ringadingh]

Originally Posted by Concho

Connections to the battery are great, just checked. Where is the main fuse on the right. I do have a singular fuse that rides on top of the backbone (15 amp). It seems to me to be a Ignition or a fuse because there is nothing working, fuel pump, lights and all do not function. I cant even push start it.

Find that main fuse, it there on the RH side but youll have to dig around and find it. Its not in the open like the others.
The top 15amp fuse is where your anti tilt switch is, in case the bike is ever dropped it shuts off the fuel pump.

[concho]

I'm about to head out to the garage and see if I can find the problem. I wished I had the problem of the flickering, I dont have any lights or power to anything. If its the ignition, it may be time to look into the keyless ignition like on a friend of mines Ultra Classic.

[ringadingh]

Originally Posted by Concho

I'm about to head out to the garage and see if I can find the problem. I wished I had the problem of the flickering, I dont have any lights or power to anything. If its the ignition, it may be time to look into the keyless ignition like on a friend of mines Ultra Classic.

Make sure the battery has power in it, check it with a voltmeter to make sure.

[nighthawk11]

I had a similar issue earlier this year. Went to start, everything looked and sounded good until I hit the start button. Everything simply went dead. I checked all the stuff mentioned in this thread and all was good. Took a meter to my battery. It read 12 volts, but when I hit the start switch, it dropped to almost nothing. Needless to say, the battery was gone.

[ells]

Like Nighhawk says, the battery can't be determined to be good until load tested. After setting all winter it is a reasonable possibility that its gone. Modern batteries can be flaky regardless of age.

[macmac]

I replied to your thread at beartooth, but will repeat you must get a meter and a test light.

The difference between here and beartooth is these guys are crack techs for the better part. You get real fast answers and if you buy the bloomin tools we say, you get damnned accurate answers, and will be told how to test.

My current thinking is the cable ends need to be cleaner, brushed clean, or sanded, but the little devils are tough to sand.

I do wonder if that charger was really clipped on well, but the battery is just 2 years old. These AGM batts are good, very very good.

[concho]

Well, checked the battery (11.6 volts, battery is 7 months old), cleaned the terminal cable ends, found and checked the main fuse (good) and still nothing. I cant load test it because the bike will not turn on at all. Guess I'll be buying a new ignition.

[leadbelly]

Buy a load tester, or better yet take out the battery and get the local auto parts guy to load test it... That will be way cheaper then throwing parts at a problem.
What makes you think it's ignition?
Did you test your ignition switch?

[upside22]

Originally Posted by Concho

Well, checked the battery (11.6 volts, battery is 7 months old), cleaned the terminal cable ends, found and checked the main fuse (good) and still nothing. I cant load test it because the bike will not turn on at all. Guess I'll be buying a new ignition.

If your battery voltage is only 11.7volts with no load there is a distinct possibility that your battery has a bad cell in it or it is actually discharged. A fully discharged battery will read something right around what you are measuring.

I would still expect the battery to have enough energy to dimly light the turn signals but unless the starter solenoid kicks in your headlight relay may not trigger so you won't see any headlight.

This sure sounds to me like you have a bad connection somewhere though. It sounds like the charging circuit has not kept the battery charged, probably because of a bad connection. This can be one of the hardest things to chase in any kind of system.

Substituting a known good battery is one trick. Disconnect the ground and positive leads from your existing battery and use jumper cables to connect them to a known good battery and see what happens. You have to be careful to not short anything to the frame and don't short the jumper cable ends together.

Good luck on the trouble shooting and let us know what you find.

[concho]

I think it's the ignition switch because even if the bike would not turn over, the lights and the fuel pump would come on. Probably weak but they would turn on. I can't even push start the bike. My old Sportster had a battery would not hold a load, but it would turn on and the lights would somewhat work.

[concho]

I'm going to take the battery out tomorrow after work and have it load tested. I'll then test the ignition switch. I hate electrical grimelins. I really appreciate the help and suggestions.

[AlabamaNomadRider]

Greg, it shouldn't be a bad battery. Sounds like something isn't making a connection. These batteries should last a minimum of five years and maybe up to eight years. I would make sure everything is tight. It shouldn't be a starter problem but then you never know. At least you are covered by warranty. You can take the battery out and have it checked at a parts store.

[nighthawk11]

You checked the battery while hitting the start switch? That's the trick. Mine read good while static, but when I hit the start switch....nothing. It turns out one of the cells was bad. Mine was 2-1/12 years old. The warranty on the battery was 2 years. Replaced with new one, fired right up.

[concho]

Ok, I removed the battery and looked at the battery in my 4 wheeler and got an idea. I started the 4 wheeler with my Nomad's battery with no problem, and tried to start the Nomad with the 4 wheelers battery and got the same results as the Nomad's battery. Does anybody have a wiring diagram for the 1500 Nomad FI? I rechecked all the connections under the seat, handle bars and the few under the triple trees. I figure there are a few in the headlight bucket, but would they effect the bike in this way?