Kawasaki Oil

[canuckrider]

I have been using the Kawasaki S4 Synthetic since my first oil change and have no issues with it at all. I had the Kawasaki extended warranty plan so decided to stick with it so there couldn't possibly be any issues down the road.

My local dealer doesn't normally stock the 4 litre jugs but does order them in for me; better price than buying the single 1 litre containers. Will have to check what Garry said about taking my own jug in and having them refill it from their bulk tank. Maybe save even more money.

PS - I always use the Kawasaki brand filter and always used a new crush washer when I was using the bottom drain plug (now use the LH side drain with the filter).

[BigAl1952]

I will bet money the Kawasaki oil like a lot of the other oils that claim they are synthetic is not a true or full synthetic oil. Royal Purple, Amsoil, Motul, Mobil 1, and Redline, are the major synthetic oils. Many of these companies claim theey have synthetic oil because there is one or two synthetic additives in there dino oil. Harley Davidson claims theres is synthetic and it isn't. The filter is just as important as the oil. If your going to run synthetic you better get a filter that is designed to run with synthetic oil or your wasting your time. Id like to know how your backing your claim up of the bike not running cooler. You would of needed to have an oil temp gauge on the bike with the old oil in it and then with the new oil to make the claim. I doubt you would ever see a change water temperature wise. Al

[99xcsp]

Originally Posted by BigAl1952

I will bet money the Kawasaki oil like a lot of the other oils that claim they are synthetic is not a true or full synthetic oil. Royal Purple, Amsoil, Motul, Mobil 1, and Redline, are the major synthetic oils. Many of these companies claim theey have synthetic oil because there is one or two synthetic additives in there dino oil. Harley Davidson claims theres is synthetic and it isn't. The filter is just as important as the oil. If your going to run synthetic you better get a filter that is designed to run with synthetic oil or your wasting your time. Id like to know how your backing your claim up of the bike not running cooler. You would of needed to have an oil temp gauge on the bike with the old oil in it and then with the new oil to make the claim. I doubt you would ever see a change water temperature wise. Al

True!..

[gv550]

Originally Posted by BigAl1952

I will bet money the Kawasaki oil like a lot of the other oils that claim they are synthetic is not a true or full synthetic oil. Royal Purple, Amsoil, Motul, Mobil 1, and Redline, are the major synthetic oils. Many of these companies claim theey have synthetic oil because there is one or two synthetic additives in there dino oil. Harley Davidson claims theres is synthetic and it isn't. The filter is just as important as the oil. If your going to run synthetic you better get a filter that is designed to run with synthetic oil or your wasting your time. Id like to know how your backing your claim up of the bike not running cooler. You would of needed to have an oil temp gauge on the bike with the old oil in it and then with the new oil to make the claim. I doubt you would ever see a change water temperature wise. Al

I doubt very much a company such as Harley or Kawasaki would market an oil labelled synthetic if it were not true. There are laws and stiff penalties and no company would take the risk just to make an extra $2.
There are synthetic oil filters, but this only means the filter is manufactured from synthetic materials rather the usual paper screen. Synthetic filters can be used with synthetic or Dino oil, and so can normal filters.

[BigAl1952]

Grab an amsoil magazine and check it out on the Harley oil its in fact not full synthetic. http://www.syntheticsbestoil.com/mobil.htm. Might want to give this article a look. Then you can make your own judgement. Not trying to start a oil war thread. I also doubt the kawasaki oil filter is made up of nothing more than paper media which doesn't filter as fine of a partical as the K&N or the Amsoil filter. After all Ford GM and Chrysler will all recommend there oil and filter they want to make more money off of you. Al

[otter]

You sell Amsoil and related products.... right?

[BigAl1952]

Originally Posted by otter

You sell Amsoil and related products.... right?

I have used it since 1978. Do I sell it? No. I use it and will continue to do so. I have seen what it does and done several tests with it myself to prove some of there claims. One of them was an oil temp test in motorcycles. It does or did for me reduce oil temp. Al

[otter]

Originally Posted by gv550

I've been using Kawasaki S4 full synthetic in all my Kawasaki bikes and have been problem free for 962,000 kms. It is currently supplied by NOCO lubricants company. Definitely good stuff and reasonably priced. My dealer sells the 4 litre jug for $42, and if I bring my own jug they will fill it with bulk S4 for $35. They also have the oil change kit, includes 4 litres of S4, a filter, drain plug washer, plastic gloves and a Vulcan hat.
I change oil every 10,000 and use only Kawasaki filters.

So I did a little bit of digging... and called NOCO. I asked if they blend Kawi oil or are simply a supplier. They say they are supplier only and when they get it, it is already Kawi oil. Would not say who the actual source is. I did notice the word Mobil keeps popping up around their website. I wonder what the chances are that Kawi oil is rebranded Mobil?

[Dieago62]

When it comes to oil and other things people are looking for a bottle filled with magical power. Its not there just keep it changed and you will be fine with any oil brand. Unless you are a chemical engineer all you have is what you read and want to believe and convince yourself into believing!

[Johnny Y]

Does the oil we use have to have all the API SG,SH,SJ,SL,SM on it or is something with just SM & SL useable ? The local Farm & Fleet has Mystik 15-50 JT-8 Syn. Blend on sale. 5 Gal. for 50.00.

[gv550]

From the owners manual, any API type SE thru SM is suitable provided it also has JASO MA and viscosity of 10w40.

[cnc]

Originally Posted by BigAl1952

I will bet money the Kawasaki oil like a lot of the other oils that claim they are synthetic is not a true or full synthetic oil. Royal Purple, Amsoil, Motul, Mobil 1, and Redline, are the major synthetic oils. Many of these companies claim theey have synthetic oil because there is one or two synthetic additives in there dino oil. Harley Davidson claims theres is synthetic and it isn't. The filter is just as important as the oil. If your going to run synthetic you better get a filter that is designed to run with synthetic oil or your wasting your time. Id like to know how your backing your claim up of the bike not running cooler. You would of needed to have an oil temp gauge on the bike with the old oil in it and then with the new oil to make the claim. I doubt you would ever see a change water temperature wise. Al

Very few oils in North America labeled as synthetic are in fact true synthetics made from pao bases. Are they pulling a fast one, not really. Most conventional oil and synthetic oils are mineral based. The synthetics come from group III - this is a highly refined mineral oil made through a process called hydrocracking. In North America this group is considered a synthetic oil, for marketing purposes.

The American Petroleum Institute, or API, classifies oils into five groups.

Group 1 oils are produced by simple distillation of crude oil, which separates the components of the oil by their boiling point, and by the use of solvents to extract sulfur, nitrogen, and oxygen compounds. This was the only commercial refinement process until the early 1970s, and the bulk of commercial oil products on the market are still produced by this process.

Group 2 and Group 3 oils are refined with hydrogen at much higher temperatures and pressures, in a process known as hydro-cracking. This process results in a base mineral oil with many of the higher performance characteristics of synthetic oils, and the more heavily hydro-cracked Group 3 oils have a very high viscosity index - above 120 - making them the equivalent of PAO synthetic oils.

Group 4 oils are all of the synthetic polyalphaolefins, the PAO group, and Group 5 includes all other types of synthetic oil.

[hlknvlcn60]

I run Kawasaki petroleum based 20/50 with K&N filter KN303 and the motor loves all of it and runs quiet and fine. Every time I pull off the K&N it is full of oil and spills out all it can hold so it is working like expected. I also ran the K&N in my Vulcan 1500 Meanstreak and the same thing, no issues whatsoever.

[dhobbs74]

Originally Posted by Dieago62

When it comes to oil and other things people are looking for a bottle filled with magical power. Its not there just keep it changed and you will be fine with any oil brand. Unless you are a chemical engineer all you have is what you read and want to believe and convince yourself into believing!

Exactly, keep the oil changed and you won't have a problem no matter what kind you use.

[H8BUGZ]

Originally Posted by gv550

I recently serviced a Vulcan that the owner complained about rattling noise on startup. It had a K&N oil filter and when I removed it no oil came out, it was empty, it either had no anti-drainback valve or. it didn't work. I installed a new Kawasaki filter and the noise was gone after the initial start.
Without a functioning anti-drainback valve the oil pump has to fill the filter and lines before the cams and lifters get any lube. I know the K&N is less money and has the handy hex on the end, but not worth the risk IMO.

I don't doubt your expertise, but tell me how the OEM Kawasaki filter is better. Ever take one apart? Most filters have similar construction with different filter media used. The K&N KN303 used on the 1700 has a silicone filter media which is an improvement over a lot of filters out there. It does not have a silicone drainback valve though. There is a fine line with manufacturers concerning quality vs. profit margins. I doubt Kawasaki makes their own filters.