Stem bearing replacement

[dougster]

Curious to know how you make out with the shim OP, and how you got the lower race off the stem.[/QUOTE]

I kept the original bottom dust seal, so I do not anticipate needing a shim. However, I compared the original with the All Balls seal, and I don't see where you should need a shim, if you put the new seal in the right side up. If you compare them, you can see what I mean.

[skiman]

Originally Posted by TacomaJD

My 06 Nomad has 17k miles and the bars flop way too easy while tire is in the air. I've read of being able to tighten the steering head nut due to being a little loose from the factory, but never crossed my mind that my bearings could also be worn? I haven't gotten around to trying to tighten it yet, but I hope that fixes the issue.

If there's any notchy feeling when turning the bars then you need new bearings.
As long as the steering is smooth I would grease the bearings and adjust them. You could just adjust them for now and do the grease when you have some down time.

[dougster]

Here is a follow-up: I got the bearings and races in, all is put back together.
When I took it apart, I was able to remove the stem nut with my fingers. It was loose. The bearing races had those shadowy marks from wear, so I replaced them all with All Balls.

Here is my concern now: My cables and wires don't let it all turn easily when I try to test it by bumping the handgrip.
I did set the bearings and races as instructed, and tightened the stem nut as instructed, and
I understand the concept, but I am having difficulty checking it. (Guess I am OCD enough that it bugs me.
How do I make sure it is not too tight?
It turns back and forth freely, but not so that it just easily hits the stops (like it did before).

Also, how do I make sure the forks tubes are aligned properly. I pulled it off with the fender and wheel still attached. I would think that would help keep everything lined up properly. I put it all back in this afternoon.

[skiman]

for the stem tighten to 58ftlbs move forks stop to stop about ten times this will seat and square the bearings, loosen nut not all the way just enough to re torque to 14.5 ftlbs
If the forks don't get real stiff when you go to 58ftlbs you'll need a 1mm shim, myself and a few others have had to use a shim.

[hammer]

OCD is not that bad a thing when it comes to the bike.

I had the same issue with cables and wiring for a bounce test. I pulled 15 lbs and it's all good though. I took the forks right off the bike when I did the stem bearings anyway. It was a good time to change fork oil and I replaced the front wheel bearings while I was at it.

The bounce alignment in the video is right on.

[VARider07]

It's been some time ago, but one of the guys used PVC to push bearings, races, in and out. He had pics of the rig. Will see if I can find it.

[dougster]

Originally Posted by skiman

for the stem tighten to 58ftlbs move forks stop to stop about ten times this will seat and squae the bearings, loosen nut not all the way just enough to re torque to 14.5 ftlbs
If the forks don't get real stiff when you go to 58ftlbs you'll need a 1mm shim, myself and a few others have had to use a shim.

That is exactly what I did. Thanks, that helps reassure me.

Originally Posted by hammer

OCD is not that bad a thing when it comes to the bike.

I had the same issue with cables and wiring for a bounce test. I pulled 15 lbs and it's all good though. I took the forks right off the bike when I did the stem bearings anyway.

That is what I finally did, too. I will take it out to test it next.

[skiman]

You'll know when you take it for a ride about 25-30 mph, too tight and it won't want to track straight it hold a line just not a straight one will want you be correcting the bike constantly. too loose and it will wonder back and forth and coming to a stop it will seem unstable. The 14.5 ftlbs is from the book. Good luck

[dougster]

Got it all back together, took it out, and it rode just fine. Around 15 ft-lbs, and it tracked well. I did not feel that I was fighting it nor constantly correcting it. (Sometimes hard to tell in Nebraska, with all the side breezes). No instability issues when stopping, either.

[Caveman]

This is what I did:

I used the AllBalls 22-1031 kit. Bearings are great. Seals threw me off for a minute, as the ID of the lower seal doesn't fit like the OEM seal but everything works perfectly.

For the forks I used Bel-Ray 15W.

I used a 1 foot piece of 1 1/2" PVC plus a male adapter to make a tool that works perfectly to seat the lower bearing on the stem and also to install the races into the neck. This along with a rubber mallet did the trick. Check this out:

[hammer]

Awesome seeing DIY solutions like that. Nice adaptation of simple, easy to find tools.