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Old 12-23-2016, 12:27 PM   #16
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1999,no pog,Yes i had the top off the rear cylinder to put the camchain back on the cog.I never touched lifters,just took the cam out,put the chain back on,and closed it all up. Surely if there was a problem,ie an airlock,the oil light would be on.
No, the oil light would not come on for a lifter that was not getting oil. The oil light is based on the over all oil pressure of the system and generally only comes on for a couple of reasons, failure of the oil pump, really low oil level, severely worn engine components ( you would probably be seeing lots of blue smoke long before this ), or a faulty oil pressure switch.

A lifter pumps up with oil cushioning the valve train noise and takes up small amounts of tolerances in the train due to changes in engine temperature.
This will give you a rough idea Mick.
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Old 12-23-2016, 12:31 PM   #17
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Relay, Rejay ? Too many cookie crumbs in the keyboard :)
 
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Old 12-23-2016, 01:04 PM   #18
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Thank guys for replies, the bike is 2000 VN1500 FI. There are no other problems with it except of this noise.
The work I done on it: removed engine, replaced all top gaskets dawn to cylinder head, replaced rocker cover because there was side crack in it. Replaced spring on KACR unit because it started to digging hole in rocker case (maybe it was be better to just get rid of KACR). Bleed air from hla, inspected camshaft and there was no obvious signs of wear... I know I should inspected piston while top end was removed, my bad didn't do it. Today tryed to block starter solenoids cause read somewhere that they could make noise similar with piston slap, so no changes happened but now it starts harder and the noise is still there. Exhaust is pretty tight, so probably it's not what causing my problems. Don't want remove engine again but if I dont find an easyer solution I'am gonna do it...
Here the guy posted video with piston slap and I bet it's sounds like mine problem
 
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Old 12-23-2016, 01:18 PM   #19
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Pizton slap, rod bearing, wrist pin....
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Old 12-23-2016, 01:19 PM   #20
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I reckon if your piston is slack enough to make that much noise,a compression test would pick it up easily enough.
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Old 12-23-2016, 01:21 PM   #21
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CNC.Thanks for the video mate.
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Old 12-23-2016, 01:39 PM   #22
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Relay, Rejay ? Too many cookie crumbs in the keyboard :)
Naw, my smart phone keeps trying to make it's self look smart by auto correcting and making me look like a dumb ass!
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Old 12-24-2016, 11:55 AM   #23
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I had this issue if some of you remember when my bike would not start. When it finally started I had told you there was a big bang. Well eventually it started this ticking that is in this video. If I let the bike seat idling the lifters would pump up and it would quiet down. After riding it hard for a while the noise would return. My final conclusion was that I a slash adjuster/ lifter that would bleed down. I planned to pull the motor and replace all the adjusters since it would be hard see which one it was. They are about $75 each, multiply that by 8. After talking to MAS TEQUILA I found a motor with about 20,000miles for a little over $1000. Since the original motor had 75,000miles on it, I got the other motor and put it in instead.
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Old 12-24-2016, 12:01 PM   #24
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I reckon if your piston is slack enough to make that much noise,a compression test would pick it up easily enough.
I tried that on mine trying to determine which cylinder was the issue. In these motors you can't get a proper compression reading. The readings jump all over the place.
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Old 12-24-2016, 12:10 PM   #25
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I tried that on mine trying to determine which cylinder was the issue. In these motors you can't get a proper compression reading. The readings jump all over the place.

Thinking about it.Doesnt one of the cylinders have a decompressor on the valves,to allow for easier starting.Would that prevent a true reading with the engine not running ? I am sure i read in the manual,that the psi is different in the cylinders,is this the reason.
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Old 12-24-2016, 12:18 PM   #26
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Thinking about it.Doesnt one of the cylinders have a decompressor on the valves,to allow for easier starting.Would that prevent a true reading with the engine not running ? I am sure i read in the manual,that the psi is different in the cylinders,is this the reason.
There are ways to do it but in my mind a leak down test would be more practical.
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Old 12-24-2016, 12:24 PM   #27
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According to the book the compression should be from 50 to 85 on this bike and I have around 75 of front cylinder and around 70 on rear... so either it's not a cylinder or compression test says nothing about piston slap.

I doubt that it's a lifter because there was no signs of wear when I bleed hydraulic adjusters but gonna check them out again when pull out the engine.
 
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Old 12-24-2016, 12:32 PM   #28
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That's an HLA not pumping up.

Put 3 or 4 ounces of SeaFoam in the crankcase and let it run for 10-15 minutes.

If that doesn't change anything take it for a ride and bounce it off the rev limiter a few times.

Then change your oil.

Did you change the screens in the heads, or look to see if they were clogged?

Put a mechanic's stethoscope or piece of broom stick up to the head and listen.

You will be able to tell where it's coming from.

Sometimes a little Marvel's Mystery Oil helps too.

Good luck and keep us posted.

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Old 12-24-2016, 12:40 PM   #29
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http://www.vulcanbagger.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=38403
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Old 12-26-2016, 05:23 PM   #30
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Tried seafoam today, run engine for about one hour, no changes...
Listen engine with mechanic stethoscope and noise is coming from the front cylinder top head, though maybe it lifters.

No, I didn't change screens in the heads, just cleaned them a little.

Removed engine today and in a couple days will try to find out what is coursing this noise.
 
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