Buzz/Rattle in the front

[Sabre-t]

Originally Posted by mike07nad

This will require Video proof that it can be done. I suggest you do it in an instructional format that we all can learn.

In all the Voyagers and Miles, I've never taken my outer fairing off.

I'd like to see that as well. How do you get to the fairing bolts obscured by the lowers??? I can't even get a pass-through socket or any wrench that can get to the bolts in there. Sure would save a lot of time not having to take them off.

[Peg]

Originally Posted by Sabre-t

I'd like to see that as well. How do you get to the fairing bolts obscured by the lowers??? I can't even get a pass-through socket or any wrench that can get to the bolts in there. Sure would save a lot of time not having to take them off.

I have a special pair of ratchet 10mm spanners. One of them has a collar which is quite wide, (it's a combo 10mm one side, 12mm the other) and will operate well to get the bolts loose from where they're recessed and tight. Once I get them far enough out to get my other (very narrow) 10mm ratchet spanner on the head of the bolt, I can get them further out enough to finish by hand and finangle them out.

If I get those four bolts between the upper & lower fairings right off first, everything is held in place with the other bolts & various positioning posts. So it's simply a matter of getting the screen and speaker covers off (I have a 5mm hex tip screwdriver kindly supplied in a Whispbar roofrack fitting kit for that). My chrome trim is double-side taped to the screen to make that removal a little smoother (It also stopped it squeaking), then the two 10mm bolts under the speaker covers (socket & short extension), and I finish with the headlight surround (5mm allen key socket on a ratchet drive, then 10mm ratchet spanners from before, either one) to finish.

When all the bolts are off, you can pull the fairing far enough forward resting on the turn signals to easily reach inside for all three light wiring plugs (all three of mine have longer leads as a result of the JW Speaker headlight & aftermarket LED spot bulbs), and then it's a simple case of wriggling the fairing out above those turn signals.

Getting the fairing back on can take a little longer... Those four bolts between fairings are a real bitch to get started when there's not much room for fingers to work in, but I've gotten used to where the pressure needs to be applied to the fairing to get the holes to line up the best.

[mbarr10]

In the Vid I posted on page 1 Starting at 11:05 on the minute marker. watch that part.

[Sabre-t]

Originally Posted by Peg

I have a special pair of ratchet 10mm spanners. One of them has a collar which is quite wide, (it's a combo 10mm one side, 12mm the other) and will operate well to get the bolts loose from where they're recessed and tight. Once I get them far enough out to get my other (very narrow) 10mm ratchet spanner on the head of the bolt, I can get them further out enough to finish by hand and finangle them out.

If I get those four bolts between the upper & lower fairings right off first, everything is held in place with the other bolts & various positioning posts. So it's simply a matter of getting the screen and speaker covers off (I have a 5mm hex tip screwdriver kindly supplied in a Whispbar roofrack fitting kit for that). My chrome trim is double-side taped to the screen to make that removal a little smoother (It also stopped it squeaking), then the two 10mm bolts under the speaker covers (socket & short extension), and I finish with the headlight surround (5mm allen key socket on a ratchet drive, then 10mm ratchet spanners from before, either one) to finish.

When all the bolts are off, you can pull the fairing far enough forward resting on the turn signals to easily reach inside for all three light wiring plugs (all three of mine have longer leads as a result of the JW Speaker headlight & aftermarket LED spot bulbs), and then it's a simple case of wriggling the fairing out above those turn signals.

Getting the fairing back on can take a little longer... Those four bolts between fairings are a real bitch to get started when there's not much room for fingers to work in, but I've gotten used to where the pressure needs to be applied to the fairing to get the holes to line up the best.

Thanks! Maybe I can figure out someway to do that with the tools I have. It sure would be nice to skip taking the lowers off.

[Sabre-t]

Originally Posted by mbarr10

In the Vid I posted on page 1 Starting at 11:05 on the minute marker. watch that part.

It looks like the lowers or part of them on the Vaquero are actually bolted to the top fairing from your video. Unfortunately, the lowers on a Voyager obscure the bolts. The lowers are not actually attached to the upper fairing at all. They just block access to those same bolts.

[Bikerfred]

Update on the buzzing from the ring around the ignition. I first placed some rubber/padding underneath and that worked for a while. But what seems to have worked best is plain silicone. I removed the plastic ring and the rubber ring I had glued on the ring and instead spread silicone on the bottom and placed back on the bike. For a month there has been no rattle and you cannot see the silicone.