Engine bogging down

[chopped]

Well Mac if you are ever in DC Northern VA area... come on down! I will have a cold beer or scotch waiting for yah!

[macmac]

Be carefull fir what you wish. I got family just south of Balt. Once in a while I sneak over that bay bridge out of Del.

[chopped]

Ok.... here is where I sit.... I rewired the TFI, properly. I had the bike running right on the lift. I lowered the lift with the bike running and then she started to cut out on me then started giving me the problem again. Sputtter sputter pow! This leads me to believe its the downed bike sensor or something other.... BACK TO SQUARE 1!

[macmac]

So far as I know the tip over sender is a go no go device. It's likely that the engine would simpy shut off, and you would not re-start the engine woith out turning off the key first again.

I still suspect a bad key switch. Next time you just run the engine let it idle, and just wiggle the key in the switch. Maybe with a screw driver handle rap the key switch lightly.

The engine screws up at random almost, but let it run good a while at idle a while, some more time that running and then changing something is throw all of us off.

[Blueraven]

I think it is your atmospheric pressure sensor.

[chopped]

Sorry guys.... Been without internet since Wen and had knee surgery Friday... Im back now. Will try to go out and play on the bike a bit today and see ir we can't figure something out. I have an ohm meter now so we can get a bit more in depth!

[macmac]

Just see if it will idle for 10 full minutes with out doing anything.. It could be a good idea to point a fan at the engine and the rad from a side ways view say 3/4ers view.

[chopped]

Ive already done that! It idled fine then it would idle low then high then back to regular idle. I didn't mess with the key switch yet, but that will be done today or tomorrow depending on how my knee feels! The radiator fan is loud though. I figure it was because of it sitting outside for a year.

[macmac]

I mean a house fan blowing air on the engine.. I hope you had that on as well as the bike fan when it came on.. I have almost never heared my engine fan run. I have to idle the bike like I told you to, for that to happen in NH. It whirrs some.. Spin the blades feeling for roughness. There should be none..

The low idle going to high and back again say vac leak still and more so if it does it often, and repeats.

[chopped]

sorry about that... I did have a fan on it. I don't see how its a vac leak when I replaced all the lines.... oh yes... sorry I did that when I lost internet. I replaced all the lines with new ones. I will check the vac and atmospheric sensors tomorrow with my ohm meter. I still don't have an answer for you with the key switch. pain keeps me from focusing some times. Sorry Mac

[macmac]

Vac leaks can occur in other places, anywhere behind the throttle plate. The throttle body can leak on it's mount, the intake manifold can leak at the clyinder mounts. Any gaskets or O rings are suspect.
Any fittings can be suspect if one is cracked. Any cap offs are suspect once heated and older, any vac line on both ends or any chafing paces in the middles somewhere.

Injector seals are subject to these same faults. They tend to get bigger cold and smaller heated, and since they move a lot can wear, flatten and no longer seal.

For many years on a daily rountine I hunted cars for vac leaks with WD-40. The last time i did that WD-40 didn't work as a added fuel. I don't know why. I suspect there is a new formula.

I like WD because you couyld see where a spray made contact, and work around part for part that way.

It's still worth a try.

If it doesn't work I'ld like to know that.

The other way is with a can of propane for a old fashion plumbers torch. The problem is you can't see the gas. But it is done the same way as WD.

You first start the engine, and hold the torch NOT LIGHTED, never allow it to get lighted!

And hold it right into the air filter or right into the throttle body. This added fuel will run up RPM if the engine wants more fuel, and will gag and bog down any engine that already has enough fuel, RPM drops.

If RPM goes up and then drops slowly it means the engine wanted more fuel, but you gave it too much more fuel.

If the engine goes sky high, chances are you are correcting the fuel mix to the addition air that is a vac leak somewhere.

In that case you begin one possible vac leak area at a time. Hold the gas at a fitting place, gasket place injector body place, wait a bit and listen.

No change move on. Big change and you just found a vac leak.

The KEY is to hear what happens at the first get go, right into the throttle body.


Yeah on that knee, you do what you need to do, that's heal up....... I ain't plannin to go anywhere soon ya know.. Personally I think yer screwy nuts to be bending that knee any, to work on a bike. But I can't tell you what to do, or how to live life.

No need to be sorry either. I just need the best info back you can give, and when you can give it.

About this point I think something you did already got over looked somehow. What the Hell that might be I have no idea.

I sure would like to know if that pump makes system pressure, but I don't even have the right tools for that myself. I have many system pressure tools too, but each one is unique to fitting on a certain other vehical.

One reason I got out of car work on a pro level was the constant change in tooling.

I had bills and a family just like everyone else, and i was sending tool jobbers kids to college instead! Mac, Matco, and Snap On tools ain't cheap!

I was ticked when torx came out then torx with a friggin useless post in the middle, and slew of other useless tooling and fasteners.

I had and still have SAE long and short, deep and shallow, the same in Metric and in 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" drives. More in British Standard, a goofy system created in WW-1 by the bloomn Brits so no parts and bolts they made would fit anything else.

Hell, guns make more sence than that pre-industrial revolution, when no 2 screws had the same thread

Sometimes it's just stunning what happens. What worked for 90 years all of a sudden gets complicated and for no other reason that to make a new fastener to sell slighty different tools.

And then things like ABS brakes. I know when I brake the whole idea is to stop, so the lastest and greatest thing is to delay that stop by using a magnet to sends a signal to a computor that a wheel is locked up, and the computer lets that wheel go and turn again!!!!

Man the day I saw a drum brake on a 1990's Ford Escort I knew I had seen it all! I looked at that thing crosseyed and wondered what the Hell happened? A drub brake in the 1990's?

Had the cadmans of the world gone NUTS!????

I took a closer look at the drum and is said LUCAS. (Visions of nightmares!) LUCAS what the Hell is that BS!!! Then indeed I did know I had seen it all, and a long time ago too.

That brake drum was straight off the last of the MGA Brit cars, and the last of them were made in get this! 1959!

At that point I knew the whole world had gone NUTS!

[chopped]

ok.... so here is what I did. I pulled the entire fuel system off again.... pulled out my extremely fine sand paper and cleaned all the mounting areas. I have all new seals and gaskets to put back into it. If there was a vac leak here, there won't be when I put her back together. I will do the propane test as instructed when she is back together.

I pulled the key switch apart and found that the back side of the rub plate was dirtier than all hell. I cleaned that. Pull the entire thing apart and used some of my fine sandpaper to clean all the contact points. The key isn't loose at all in the switch. It has less play than my other motorcycle or my truck!

I want to test the vac sensor and injectors with my ohm meter but I don't know what setting to test at nor what the correct resistance should be. Any ideas Mac?

I pulled the fan blade off the radiator and putt some penetrating oil onto the motor shaft. seemed to have loosened it up a bit. I will see if that will cut down on some of the noise it makes when the bike is running hot!

Sorry for the delay in responding. Been hectic around here and I haven't been doing much at all do to the knee surgery. Im good now... well good enough. I can walk with minimal pain and no cane. So I guess its a step in the right direction!

[macmac]

I need a rest too, not from this problem, or you, but i drove 400 + miles today and in the middle lifted some heavy, well to heavy stuff for me. I just got off the road, and can't really crack a book, but I will. The truck has no AC, no radio, just a whining fan clutch.. I hate that truck stinking junk toyota plain pick up. I call it the black coffin.

[macmac]

Oh! Get the battery off line. Then Ohm it out anyway. Then pull a vac on it any way you can, by mouth even, if your willing. No joke, not from me anyway, and OHm it that way too.

You won't pull any 22 inches of mercury, not even close, but you might pull enough to make a change in the reading. If you have a vac master use that of course.

[chopped]

ok Mac.... want to slappy me in the dink? I found the damn problem! seems one of the vac lines that I thought I replaced was bad! not sure how I missed that. I guess that all the damn things I was working out I must have missed it. I went through all the other vac lines and they are in order. I didn't want to start her and see if it fixed it, but it will be done in the AM! I will need to go back and see what you wanted me to set the TFI to, but it shall be done!