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Old 01-28-2014, 12:29 PM   #1
bigmc3210   bigmc3210 is offline
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Dynatek 3000 on 2012 VN1700 Voyager

Has anyone installed the Dynatek 3000 Model D3K2-3 ignition module on a 2012 Voyager?

The tech at Dynatek emailed me with this response.

"Unfortunately, at this time, the D3K2-3 will only fit the 2009 to 2011 models
and we cannot yet verify proper fitment or operation on the 2012.
For this reason, we must advise you that we have nothing available at this
time.
Please refer to our website periodically for new and updated applications
which will be posted as they become available."

The 2011 and 2012 have the same ECU so it should work. Does anyone have an answer or has anyone put this on their 2012?



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Old 01-28-2014, 02:16 PM   #2
cactusjack   cactusjack is offline
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I am compelled to ask why you are considering this in the first place?
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Old 01-28-2014, 02:53 PM   #3
bigmc3210   bigmc3210 is offline
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My thinking is with a hotter spark it will burn the fuel better and possibly stop this decal pop all the time not just some of the time. I find myself being driven by this bike not me just driven it. Meaning that I have to watch the way I shift, the speed I shift, the downshift speed, when I pull my clutch in to stop, speed in town ect..... to keep this from poppin.
And faster starting would be nice too and maybe save battery life. Searchin for a cure without spending $25,000.
 
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Old 01-28-2014, 03:01 PM   #4
bigmc3210   bigmc3210 is offline
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The meaning by cure is what your driving. That new Ultra Classic is calling me but OMG for that kind of money it hurts to know I'd take a lose on this bike and that payment would hurt even more. At my age a good classic car is looking better everyday but I love my bikes.
 
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Old 01-28-2014, 03:45 PM   #5
smokey   smokey is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigmc3210 View Post
My thinking is with a hotter spark it will burn the fuel better and possibly stop this decal pop all the time not just some of the time. I find myself being driven by this bike not me just driven it. Meaning that I have to watch the way I shift, the speed I shift, the downshift speed, when I pull my clutch in to stop, speed in town ect..... to keep this from poppin.
And faster starting would be nice too and maybe save battery life. Searchin for a cure without spending $25,000.
Just go to a hotter plug, the decel popping probably will not be cured by installing that, but hey, if it does, you may have found the miracle cure for it, because we have tried pretty well everything else. You are aware that the decel popping is also there with the stock mufflers? you just don't hear it as much due to the baffle design.
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Old 01-28-2014, 07:57 PM   #6
bigmc3210   bigmc3210 is offline
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Yeah I've played with this thing since I've got it. I must say this has been the most disappointing new bike I've ever owned and I've owned a new Harley Fatboy and a new Suzuki B-King and several used bikes in between. Love the look and hwy ride but when you stop and go its a whole different story. Even the sound system kinda sucks with amp and up graded speakers. This is the devil bike and if I wasn't such a cheap a%$ or cheap son of a B#@&ch I'd just go buy that Ultra Classic I've ridden and drooled on. That bike is just dialed right in with some slip on's its perfect. The sound system is awesome but at that price it should be perfect and awesome.
 
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Old 01-28-2014, 09:48 PM   #7
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Well I must say I have been happy for the most part with mine, I don't use the bike speakers that much, mostly my helmet bluetooth, but I have never really experienced the problems others seem to having with stop and go, maybe it was because it was a dealer demo, maybe they tweaked it, who knows, works great for me, even more so now I have got rid of the heat issues.
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Old 01-29-2014, 10:25 AM   #8
RACNRAY   RACNRAY is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigmc3210 View Post
Has anyone installed the Dynatek 3000 Model D3K2-3 ignition module on a 2012 Voyager?

The tech at Dynatek emailed me with this response.

"Unfortunately, at this time, the D3K2-3 will only fit the 2009 to 2011 models
and we cannot yet verify proper fitment or operation on the 2012.
For this reason, we must advise you that we have nothing available at this
time.
Please refer to our website periodically for new and updated applications
which will be posted as they become available."

The 2011 and 2012 have the same ECU so it should work. Does anyone have an answer or has anyone put this on their 2012?
Manufacturers have to be careful in their applications. If they have not tested their product on a specific model then due prudence(and liability blah blah blah) prevents them from including certain years/makes/models from their application guide. Most manufactures seek "volunteers" skoots for testing and sometimes offer discounts on that product or give it to the donor for free. In other words someone needs to get their later model Vulcan over to DynaTek so that unit can be tested on the bike. One thing, if Kawi's part # for the ecu's are the same then the 3000 will work. Remember the ecu is the brain of the entire engine management system and the same part # is a good thing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bigmc3210 View Post
My thinking is with a hotter spark it will burn the fuel better and possibly stop this decal pop all the time not just some of the time. I find myself being driven by this bike not me just driven it. Meaning that I have to watch the way I shift, the speed I shift, the downshift speed, when I pull my clutch in to stop, speed in town ect..... to keep this from poppin.
And faster starting would be nice too and maybe save battery life. Searchin for a cure without spending $25,000.
Being able to alter ignition timing and curves from stock can achieve beneficial results. A hotter spark may allow more complete combustion which may result in more beneficial gains.

Quote:
Originally Posted by smokey View Post
Just go to a hotter plug, the decel popping probably will not be cured by installing that, but hey, if it does, you may have found the miracle cure for it, because we have tried pretty well everything else. You are aware that the decel popping is also there with the stock mufflers? you just don't hear it as much due to the baffle design.
PLEASE...NEVER EVER recommend to anyone to "go to a hotter plug"...PLEASE!!! This could be dangerous and potentially destructive to an engine.

You are confusing the terms "hotter spark" and "hotter plug" as being one in the same and they are absolutely not.

The term "hotter spark" as is commonly used refers to a spark of higher voltage and amperage. A spark of 35,000 volts would be deemed 'hotter" than a spark of 30,000 volts. Also the quality of the spark in those aspects have no bearing or affect on heat inside the engine EXCEPT as a result of that engine producing more power as a result of a "hotter" spark producing better combustion.

In reference to the "hotter plug" this is the scoop. Spark plugs are made in what are called "heat ranges". The reason for this is one plug may fit a multitude of engines with different power levels, combustion chamber designs and cooling system efficiency. The heat range of a plug refers ONLY TO THE PLUGS ABILITY to transfer heat from the center electrode and it's surrounding porcelain to the metal shell of the plug and into the surrounding metal of the cylinder head. This aspect of a plugs design is responsible for that plug maintaining a center electrode temperature that is cold enuff to NOT act as a glow plug and cause pre-ignition and hot enuff to burn carbon deposits off and not foul. A plug's heat range and the temp it operates at is influenced by the cooling affect of the incoming air/fuel mixture during the intake cycle (which cools down the center electrode) and the heat generated by the combustion process.

If you go to a "colder" plug, the plug will run at a lower temperature. Usually a colder plug is used when raising compression ratios, adding a turbo, blower or nitrous injection as combustion chamber temperatures may increase to the point where the plug's temperature will be so high the risk of pre-ignition becomes an issue. A spark plug of a heat range too cold may eventually become fouled due to the plug's temperature not hot enuff to burn off the deposits that accumulate on and around the center electrode.

If you go to a "hotter" plug then the plug operates at a higher temperature, and this can be dangerous. That center electrodes temperature can become hot enuff that it will act as a glow plug and ignite the air/fuel mixture before the spark jumps the gap. This is known as pre-ignition and is akin the hitting the valves, pistons/rings and cylinder walls with a hammer. Not good!!

While virtually no damage can be done to an engine's internal parts due to a plug with a heat range 'too cold', extensive and expensive internal damage can be the result of a plug that is "too hot".

The 1700's use a plug that was designed to compensate for Kawi's decision to use a single plug instead of a dual plug set-up which is a far superior method of starting combustion in an engine with such a huge bore. The plug has a severely projected tip design which puts that plug gap very deep into the combustion chamber, shortening the flame fronts travel.

Hope this helps to clarify these aspects.

RACNRAY
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Last edited by RACNRAY; 01-29-2014 at 10:32 AM.
 
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Old 01-29-2014, 10:56 AM   #9
cactusjack   cactusjack is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigmc3210 View Post
My thinking is with a hotter spark it will burn the fuel better and possibly stop this decal pop all the time not just some of the time. I find myself being driven by this bike not me just driven it. Meaning that I have to watch the way I shift, the speed I shift, the downshift speed, when I pull my clutch in to stop, speed in town ect..... to keep this from poppin.
And faster starting would be nice too and maybe save battery life. Searchin for a cure without spending $25,000.
Okay, thanks for the explanation. I was just curious.
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VBA #00105
H.O.G. #4250060

2011 H-D Ultra Limited 103ci



:: 2011 HD Electra Glide Ultra Limited w/Stage 1 ::


Rallies: Mesquite '08|Custer '09|Cortez '10|Crescent City '11|Kanab '12|Antlers '12|Estes Park '13|Antlers '13|Orofino '14|The Dalles '17

 
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Old 01-29-2014, 10:59 AM   #10
cactusjack   cactusjack is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigmc3210 View Post
Yeah I've played with this thing since I've got it. I must say this has been the most disappointing new bike I've ever owned and I've owned a new Harley Fatboy and a new Suzuki B-King and several used bikes in between. Love the look and hwy ride but when you stop and go its a whole different story. Even the sound system kinda sucks with amp and up graded speakers. This is the devil bike and if I wasn't such a cheap a%$ or cheap son of a B#@&ch I'd just go buy that Ultra Classic I've ridden and drooled on. That bike is just dialed right in with some slip on's its perfect. The sound system is awesome but at that price it should be perfect and awesome.
That's why I went with the bike I have now versus the Voyager when it was time to replace my Nomad and upgrade to a purpose-built touring bike.
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Scott "Cactusjack" Hanks
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2011 H-D Ultra Limited 103ci



:: 2011 HD Electra Glide Ultra Limited w/Stage 1 ::


Rallies: Mesquite '08|Custer '09|Cortez '10|Crescent City '11|Kanab '12|Antlers '12|Estes Park '13|Antlers '13|Orofino '14|The Dalles '17

 
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Old 01-30-2014, 08:33 PM   #11
bigmc3210   bigmc3210 is offline
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Thanks for the info it helps. Thanks Ray and Cactus Jack. Man that's an old wrestler's name from back in the day. My Paul Bosch, Sam Houston Coliseum days down here in the Houston area.
 
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