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Old 03-02-2012, 07:00 PM   #16
bugman   bugman is offline
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it was a tender jr at 750 mil, put a real charger on it let it charge for about 5 hrs. read 12.9 then read again this morning it dropped to 12.82, packed it up and sent it back to batterymart with their RA, will get another one hopefully, what should the battery read out of the box from batterymart anyone know, again thanks for thr feedback and this weekend i will clean & check everything



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Old 03-02-2012, 07:09 PM   #17
zoom45   zoom45 is offline
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Like BDog said check the main fuse. You need to pull the coolant tank on the right side and it's behind it. Pull the plug on the relay and it's inside it. 30 amp fuse. Mine was corroded one time and caused a lot of start problems. It feeds the ignition. If the juice can't get to the starter a hot battery won't make any difference.
Zoom45
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Old 03-04-2012, 02:56 PM   #18
Nimbo   Nimbo is offline
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Zoom45, I wish I had read your post yesterday when I had my tank off. I've got a bug in my electrical where on occasion the console will zero out (clock, trip meter).

I'm too lazy to go look myself, but do I have to remove the tank to remove the coolant res?

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Old 03-04-2012, 03:45 PM   #19
VulcanE   VulcanE is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nimbo View Post
do I have to remove the tank to remove the coolant res?

Thanks,
Nimbo

No, the coolant overflow tank is behind the right side cover on the bike, just below the seat.
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Old 03-04-2012, 03:59 PM   #20
cnc   cnc is offline
 
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Did you try to start the bike after you charged it for 5 hours with the bigger charger?
12.7 or so is considered a full charge and around 12.2 is usually discharged enough that it won't start the bike. The only time you will see 13-14 volts is when the battery is being charged by a charger or the alternator.
Any battery you get will have discharged some what from the time it was activated and if it is a sealed battery, glass mat, etc, that usually means the date it was manufactured. Getting a new battery with a reading of 12.5 or 12.6 volts would be about normal. Now just because the one you got read 12.6 does not mean it was not faulty. It could have failed to have the amperage to crank the motor. A load test on the battery would have confirmed if this was the problem.
As others has suggested, while your waiting for the replacement I would clean all the connections and the main fuse connections.
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Old 03-04-2012, 05:59 PM   #21
zoom45   zoom45 is offline
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Take the right side cover off to access the coolant tank and drop it out of the way. There should be a red cap on the relay and there is a 30 amp fuse in it that controls the ignition. It may not be your problem but can't hurt to look. Here's some pictures that show the corrosion on mine when it was giving problems. And no you don't have to remove the tank.
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Old 03-04-2012, 06:39 PM   #22
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If it was the main fuse it wouldn't have started with a jump.

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Old 03-04-2012, 07:22 PM   #23
ringadingh   ringadingh is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nimbo View Post
Zoom45, I wish I had read your post yesterday when I had my tank off. I've got a bug in my electrical where on occasion the console will zero out (clock, trip meter).
Thanks,
Nimbo
99% of the time that is caused by a weak battery, or a loose connection. Its very common with Nomads to do this.
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Old 03-12-2012, 11:07 PM   #24
bugman   bugman is offline
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ALL FIXED, bad battery, even though it was brand new
 
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