Trailering my Vaquero

Troopervinny · 07-30-2016, 08:16 PM

I'm planning on going from CT to Myrtle Beach, SC (about 775 miles) and want to trailer my bike down. I have never towed a motorcycle before and was wondering if you guys had any recommendations as to where to secure the straps. That, along with any sagely words of wisdom or towing experiences would be appreciated! Thanks! Also, I'll be in Myrtle Beach from August 8th to the 12th if anyone wants to ride!

**BudMan** · 07-30-2016, 09:58 PM

Although not a Vaquero here's a link to a thread about trailering.
The fairing will have to be worked around.
Be sure the tie downs will not contact the paint.

If you can get one of these it will help. It's not a must but very helpful.

captblack52 · 07-30-2016, 10:41 PM

Trick on the front is routing the straps down through the fairing near the forks. The chock BudMan linked works well. Best, in my opinion is to tow with the bike standing straight with your front forks slightly compressed (minimizes bouncing). Leave the side stand down and when you are ready to unload you can loosen the right strap and ease the bike to the stand. Always check your straps every stop.

**schoeney** · 07-31-2016, 01:16 AM

Vinny

I am in the middle of my first trailering of a big bike right now. About 1800 miles in a 5 x 10 utility trailer.

Can't help you with attachment points because I'm not familiar with the Vaquero. But I can give you a few newbie to newbie tips.

1. Don't drop your tailgate on the trailer crank:mad: Don't ask me how I know.

2. Do a "Dry Run" loading and strapping at least a day or two prior to your trip in case you need to buy additional or different types of straps.

3. Buy tie down loops so you are not having to put the straps or hooks directly on your bike. I bought four of these

18" Tie Down Straps, 4-pack, 2,300 LB capacity per strap https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014QOSOLC..._KAyNxb6ZFP291

They are the short yellow things in the picture on the very bottom of this post. Made it much easier.

They are heavy duty. They worked well for my attachment points. You might be able to get by with something lighter duty.

4. Ratchet type straps seemed to work well today on my first 500 miles. I bought 2 pair of these.

http://m.homedepot.com/p/Keeper-8-ft...5741/202065660

because they're heavy duty and I liked the hook type. I did have to cut about 18 inches off each strap. They were kind of a pain to adjust initially but they worked well and I did not have to tighten at any stop.

The non ratchet type are easier to work with but I was concerned with them coming loose without tension on them. So I bought the ratchet type. Went through real strong winds and some decent curves. Also enjoyed the Montana 80 MPH speed limits. Bike was very stable on the trailer. Knocking on wood because I still have 3 more trailering days to go on this trip.

5. The advice given above about compressing the suspension is good advice and worked well for me.

6. Make sure you anchor the rear wheel so it cannot lift off the trailer or swing side to side.

7. The advice about buying a wheel chock is good advice as well. This is the one I bought

http://m.harborfreight.com/1800-lb-c...ock-61670.html

it ended up being $48 after a coupon they sent me. It worked well and was easy to install, load and unload. Fits a wide range of tire sizes. I was even able to adjust it after the bike was loaded .

Good Luck!

P.S. I have trailered lots of dirt bikes but they are not near as heavy. My bike is about 750 lbs. I did remove the saddle bags.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

**Framer** · 07-31-2016, 06:30 AM

I just trailer my voyager 525 miles. I used a condor chock and strapped it at four points on the crash bars. I bought ratchet straps at tractor supply. These straps have a extra loop build in so you don't use the metal hook on the bike.

Troopervinny · 07-31-2016, 08:28 AM

Thank you for all the detailed responses! I'll be using a uhaul trailer and it has a built-in wheel chock. I purchased 4 1000lb rated ratcheting straps yesterday and plan on using 2 on the lower portion of the front forks and 2 on the rear engine guards. I think I will also take 2 lighter weight straps I have and attach those to the handle bars to compress the forks a bit.

Also, is there an issue with not using the actual metal hook on the d-ring? I want to run the strap through the ring and since the hooks on my straps aren't the traditional "S" hooks, I want to hook the metal hooks to each other where the webbing is sewn on. They fit well together and won't separate if the strap loosens.

At ~850 pounds, it's a heavy bike and would rather over secure it than under secure it.

twowheeladdict · 07-31-2016, 06:59 AM

Some good advice.

Additional tips.

Leave some slack before you start ratcheting the straps so the straps wrap around the ratchet several times to prevent slipping.

Strap the front wheel to the front of the chock to hold the bike in.

Check everything after 10 miles to make sure no slipping.or movement has occurred.

**MAS Tequila** · 07-31-2016, 08:00 AM

I've trailered more than one bike, and several times.

I always strap the front down, if the bike has a crash bar I use that as an attachment point. That way there is usually nothing in the way.

I strap the rear down also. Again from the crash bars if equipped.

A chock is nice but not absolutely necessary.

MT

**MAS Tequila** · 07-31-2016, 08:55 AM

This one is similar to how I do it.

MT

highwayman2011 · 07-31-2016, 11:47 AM

Took my Voyager to South Dakota from Pennsylvania and back a couple years ago. I used a 5X10 utility trailer. Got a locking chock from Harbor Freight (bolted to the trailer) and used a Canyon Dancer handlebar tie down and Ancra straps to the side of the trailer in front and tied down from the rear tip over (saddlebag) bars in the rear, to the trailer sides. The locking chock was nice because I could ride into it and shut the bike off in gear and it wouldn't move. Then I could get off and strap it down. Bike did not move.

bladenbullet · 07-31-2016, 01:58 PM

keep in mind that as you approach and start driving up the ramp, if you choose to do so instead of pushing the bike up, when the front wheel starts up the ramp you lose the ability to plant your feet on the ground as the bike rises....if you drive up you must do so in one fluid motion instead of slowly while dragging your feet...

this also comes into play when pushing a bike up the ramp...the bars and controls rise quite a bit more than you do at first and it can be a handful steadying the bike if youre alone and unfamiliar with the feeling...having someone pushing from behind helps as you can spend most of your effort guiding and steadying the bike..

Troopervinny · 07-31-2016, 05:28 PM

Yeah, that's the part I'm worried about most. I'm going to try and load and unload on some sort of incline so that the ramp is as level as possible. I'm loading it solo so I guess I'll have to drive it. I think it will be too heavy to walk up.
QUOTE=bladenbullet;666785]keep in mind that as you approach and start driving up the ramp, if you choose to do so instead of pushing the bike up, when the front wheel starts up the ramp you lose the ability to plant your feet on the ground as the bike rises....if you drive up you must do so in one fluid motion instead of slowly while dragging your feet...

this also comes into play when pushing a bike up the ramp...the bars and controls rise quite a bit more than you do at first and it can be a handful steadying the bike if youre alone and unfamiliar with the feeling...having someone pushing from behind helps as you can spend most of your effort guiding and steadying the bike..[/QUOTE]

highwayman2011 · 08-01-2016, 08:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bladenbullet

keep in mind that as you approach and start driving up the ramp, if you choose to do so instead of pushing the bike up, when the front wheel starts up the ramp you lose the ability to plant your feet on the ground as the bike rises....if you drive up you must do so in one fluid motion instead of slowly while dragging your feet...

this also comes into play when pushing a bike up the ramp...the bars and controls rise quite a bit more than you do at first and it can be a handful steadying the bike if youre alone and unfamiliar with the feeling...having someone pushing from behind helps as you can spend most of your effort guiding and steadying the bike..

I guess it depends on the trailer, mine had a long ramp and was easy to keep my feet down and ride on. I did paint a line down the center of the trailer bed with spray paint to the hoop so i could center the front wheel by looking down past the forks. Hard to see that close with the fairing there. I loaded and unloaded myself.

skullbagger · 07-31-2016, 06:02 PM

IMG_0365.JPG IMG_0362.JPG IMG_0364.JPG Attachment 1

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Just finished this, let down the gate and ride on up works great. 1 bike rides in the center channel or two bikes ride in the two outside channels

Troopervinny · 07-31-2016, 07:24 PM

So I've been looking this up like crazy and think I've pretty much got it figured out. I do want to share a tip I found about hooking your straps to the D rings. Rather than just using the metal S hook, you can use one of these: http://www.lowes.com/pd/Covert-3-8-i...lated/50426976 to secure it. This way, if the strap happens to come loose, the strap will not detach from the D ring. Just hook it through the metal hook where the webbing is sewn on to the strap. I bought 4 of those so that I can use them on the front straps so that at the very least, I will have two straps that can 't be removed without unscrewing the fastener. They have a 2200lb working load.

07-30-2016, 08:16 PM	#1
Troopervinny Jr. Member Join Date: Jun 2016 Location: Connecticut Posts: 29	Trailering my Vaquero I'm planning on going from CT to Myrtle Beach, SC (about 775 miles) and want to trailer my bike down. I have never towed a motorcycle before and was wondering if you guys had any recommendations as to where to secure the straps. That, along with any sagely words of wisdom or towing experiences would be appreciated! Thanks! Also, I'll be in Myrtle Beach from August 8th to the 12th if anyone wants to ride! Login or Register to Remove Ads
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07-30-2016, 09:58 PM	#2
BudMan Join Date: May 2009 Location: Greenwood, Ark. Posts: 4,736	Although not a Vaquero here's a link to a thread about trailering. The fairing will have to be worked around. Be sure the tie downs will not contact the paint. If you can get one of these it will help. It's not a must but very helpful. __________________ Dave Jesse 2012 1700 Gray/Black Voyager 2006 1600 Nomad Green/Silver Sold VBA #1108 2010- Eureka Springs - Antlers - 2011- Maggie Valley - Antlers 2012- Margaritaville Ride - Van Buren - Antlers - 2013- Estes Park - Antlers 2014- Mountain View - Antlers - 2015- Eureka Springs - Antlers 2016- Salem - Antlers - 2017- Eureka Springs - Lake George - Antlers - 2018- Custer - Antlers
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07-31-2016, 01:16 AM	#4
schoeney Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: NW Region Posts: 5,222	Vinny I am in the middle of my first trailering of a big bike right now. About 1800 miles in a 5 x 10 utility trailer. Can't help you with attachment points because I'm not familiar with the Vaquero. But I can give you a few newbie to newbie tips. 1. Don't drop your tailgate on the trailer crank:mad: Don't ask me how I know. 2. Do a "Dry Run" loading and strapping at least a day or two prior to your trip in case you need to buy additional or different types of straps. 3. Buy tie down loops so you are not having to put the straps or hooks directly on your bike. I bought four of these 18" Tie Down Straps, 4-pack, 2,300 LB capacity per strap https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014QOSOLC..._KAyNxb6ZFP291 They are the short yellow things in the picture on the very bottom of this post. Made it much easier. They are heavy duty. They worked well for my attachment points. You might be able to get by with something lighter duty. 4. Ratchet type straps seemed to work well today on my first 500 miles. I bought 2 pair of these. http://m.homedepot.com/p/Keeper-8-ft...5741/202065660 because they're heavy duty and I liked the hook type. I did have to cut about 18 inches off each strap. They were kind of a pain to adjust initially but they worked well and I did not have to tighten at any stop. The non ratchet type are easier to work with but I was concerned with them coming loose without tension on them. So I bought the ratchet type. Went through real strong winds and some decent curves. Also enjoyed the Montana 80 MPH speed limits. Bike was very stable on the trailer. Knocking on wood because I still have 3 more trailering days to go on this trip. 5. The advice given above about compressing the suspension is good advice and worked well for me. 6. Make sure you anchor the rear wheel so it cannot lift off the trailer or swing side to side. 7. The advice about buying a wheel chock is good advice as well. This is the one I bought http://m.harborfreight.com/1800-lb-c...ock-61670.html it ended up being $48 after a coupon they sent me. It worked well and was easy to install, load and unload. Fits a wide range of tire sizes. I was even able to adjust it after the bike was loaded . Good Luck! P.S. I have trailered lots of dirt bikes but they are not near as heavy. My bike is about 750 lbs. I did remove the saddle bags. Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk __________________ VBA #659 2003 Nomad 1500 (Gone but never forgotten) 2005 Honda ST1300 - Sweet and still kickin 2006 Honda Goldwing - Best Boat in the Marina Last edited by schoeney; 07-31-2016 at 01:56 AM.
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07-31-2016, 06:59 AM	#7
twowheeladdict Advanced Member Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Middle Tennessee Posts: 616	Some good advice. Additional tips. Leave some slack before you start ratcheting the straps so the straps wrap around the ratchet several times to prevent slipping. Strap the front wheel to the front of the chock to hold the bike in. Check everything after 10 miles to make sure no slipping.or movement has occurred. __________________ 2010 Vulcan Voyager, 2007 Vulcan Mean Streak, 2009 Vulcan Nomad
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07-31-2016, 08:00 AM	#8
MAS Tequila Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Psychiatric Ward FL Posts: 3,429	I've trailered more than one bike, and several times. I always strap the front down, if the bike has a crash bar I use that as an attachment point. That way there is usually nothing in the way. I strap the rear down also. Again from the crash bars if equipped. A chock is nice but not absolutely necessary. MT __________________ MT 2016 FLHP Psychiatric Ward FL VBA 936
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07-30-2016, 10:41 PM	#3
captblack52 Jr. Member Join Date: May 2016 Posts: 18	Trick on the front is routing the straps down through the fairing near the forks. The chock BudMan linked works well. Best, in my opinion is to tow with the bike standing straight with your front forks slightly compressed (minimizes bouncing). Leave the side stand down and when you are ready to unload you can loosen the right strap and ease the bike to the stand. Always check your straps every stop.
	0

07-31-2016, 08:28 AM	#6
Troopervinny Jr. Member Join Date: Jun 2016 Location: Connecticut Posts: 29	Thank you for all the detailed responses! I'll be using a uhaul trailer and it has a built-in wheel chock. I purchased 4 1000lb rated ratcheting straps yesterday and plan on using 2 on the lower portion of the front forks and 2 on the rear engine guards. I think I will also take 2 lighter weight straps I have and attach those to the handle bars to compress the forks a bit. Also, is there an issue with not using the actual metal hook on the d-ring? I want to run the strap through the ring and since the hooks on my straps aren't the traditional "S" hooks, I want to hook the metal hooks to each other where the webbing is sewn on. They fit well together and won't separate if the strap loosens. At ~850 pounds, it's a heavy bike and would rather over secure it than under secure it.
	0

07-31-2016, 08:55 AM	#9
MAS Tequila Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Psychiatric Ward FL Posts: 3,429	This one is similar to how I do it. MT __________________ MT 2016 FLHP Psychiatric Ward FL VBA 936
	0

07-31-2016, 11:47 AM	#10
highwayman2011 Member Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: N Las Vegas, NV Posts: 364	Took my Voyager to South Dakota from Pennsylvania and back a couple years ago. I used a 5X10 utility trailer. Got a locking chock from Harbor Freight (bolted to the trailer) and used a Canyon Dancer handlebar tie down and Ancra straps to the side of the trailer in front and tied down from the rear tip over (saddlebag) bars in the rear, to the trailer sides. The locking chock was nice because I could ride into it and shut the bike off in gear and it wouldn't move. Then I could get off and strap it down. Bike did not move. __________________ 2010 Vulcan Voyager
	0

07-31-2016, 01:58 PM	#11
bladenbullet Member Join Date: May 2016 Location: Southwestern Florida Posts: 115	keep in mind that as you approach and start driving up the ramp, if you choose to do so instead of pushing the bike up, when the front wheel starts up the ramp you lose the ability to plant your feet on the ground as the bike rises....if you drive up you must do so in one fluid motion instead of slowly while dragging your feet... this also comes into play when pushing a bike up the ramp...the bars and controls rise quite a bit more than you do at first and it can be a handful steadying the bike if youre alone and unfamiliar with the feeling...having someone pushing from behind helps as you can spend most of your effort guiding and steadying the bike..
	0

07-31-2016, 05:28 PM	#12
Troopervinny Jr. Member Join Date: Jun 2016 Location: Connecticut Posts: 29	Yeah, that's the part I'm worried about most. I'm going to try and load and unload on some sort of incline so that the ramp is as level as possible. I'm loading it solo so I guess I'll have to drive it. I think it will be too heavy to walk up. QUOTE=bladenbullet;666785]keep in mind that as you approach and start driving up the ramp, if you choose to do so instead of pushing the bike up, when the front wheel starts up the ramp you lose the ability to plant your feet on the ground as the bike rises....if you drive up you must do so in one fluid motion instead of slowly while dragging your feet... this also comes into play when pushing a bike up the ramp...the bars and controls rise quite a bit more than you do at first and it can be a handful steadying the bike if youre alone and unfamiliar with the feeling...having someone pushing from behind helps as you can spend most of your effort guiding and steadying the bike..[/QUOTE]
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07-31-2016, 06:02 PM	#14
skullbagger Advanced Member Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: N.C. Posts: 727	Trailering my Vaquero IMG_0365.JPG IMG_0362.JPG IMG_0364.JPG Attachment 1 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Just finished this, let down the gate and ride on up works great. 1 bike rides in the center channel or two bikes ride in the two outside channels __________________ " If your like most people its not for you " VULCAN VAQUERO Last edited by skullbagger; 07-31-2016 at 06:08 PM.
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07-31-2016, 07:24 PM	#15
Troopervinny Jr. Member Join Date: Jun 2016 Location: Connecticut Posts: 29	So I've been looking this up like crazy and think I've pretty much got it figured out. I do want to share a tip I found about hooking your straps to the D rings. Rather than just using the metal S hook, you can use one of these: http://www.lowes.com/pd/Covert-3-8-i...lated/50426976 to secure it. This way, if the strap happens to come loose, the strap will not detach from the D ring. Just hook it through the metal hook where the webbing is sewn on to the strap. I bought 4 of those so that I can use them on the front straps so that at the very least, I will have two straps that can 't be removed without unscrewing the fastener. They have a 2200lb working load.
	0