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Old 10-28-2018, 06:58 PM   #1
ldhthept   ldhthept is offline
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Question Sounds like a stupid question

06 Nomad. Trying to change reg driving lights to led bulbs. Keeps blowing fuse when I turn them on. Found some discolored fittings and replaced those, lights worked. Take it for a ride and driving lights blow immmediately. Traced wire to relay under the seat, 12v 30 A 4 prong relay. Looks like I wired it to get keyed power from rear lights. Am I pulling to many amps on this relay to keep blowing the ACCESSORY 10 amp fuse in fuse box? (That’s one of the stupid questions!). Another question is how? Since I used the same circuit to run the reg driving lights for years. Can I just switch to a higher amp fuse in the fuse box? (Is that another stupid question?) Do I need to tap a different keyed power source, one with less on it? How do you test a relay? One of the tabs on the relay has a fuse on it that is not getting blown. Any help is appreciated. Thx.



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Old 10-28-2018, 07:12 PM   #2
recumbentbob   recumbentbob is offline
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Do NOT replace the 10 amp fuse with a larger one.
Wire the lights like in the link below.


the lights should be wired like this
http://vulcanbagger.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15758
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Old 10-28-2018, 08:36 PM   #3
ldhthept   ldhthept is offline
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Can I just replace the 30A relay with a 40A to see if that cures the prob?
 
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Old 10-28-2018, 08:56 PM   #4
recumbentbob   recumbentbob is offline
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You may just have a bad relay, try a new 30 amp relay. 2 driving lights don't draw near 30 amps.
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Old 10-28-2018, 10:38 PM   #5
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The leds should be pulling a lot less amps than the old lights. If you are blowing fuse as soon as you turn them on, then it sounds more like a short, not too much current draw.

Check for a pinched wire. Or remove each new bulb one at a time and see if one of them is bad.

A 10 amp fuse can handle 120 watts at 12 volts.
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Old 10-29-2018, 09:32 AM   #6
ldhthept   ldhthept is offline
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The power to the relay is coming from the tail/brake lights, no clue how much they draw since I have added LED back there as well as running/brake lights. Will have to rewire to understand what I did because the relay has a wire with a fuse in it and I don’t know why or where it goes. Thx for replies.
 
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Old 10-29-2018, 04:39 PM   #7
recumbentbob   recumbentbob is offline
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Wire it like the drawing shows in the link I provided. Power coming from the battery, sounds like you have too much on the tail light circuit causing the fuse to blow.
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Old 10-29-2018, 07:35 PM   #8
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You say you are blowing the 10 amp fuse the driving lights are on, correct?
Not the running brake light fuse which sounds like you are using to trigger the relay to turn on the driving lights. If this is the case then it on the driving light side not the trigger side, so it is a issue with the driving lights or the wiring to them.
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Old 10-29-2018, 09:07 PM   #9
ldhthept   ldhthept is offline
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Thx! Think I will just totally rewire and make sure its all correct.
 
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Old 11-01-2018, 12:01 PM   #10
andyvh1959   andyvh1959 is offline
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First off it sounds like a direct short and not a fuse rating issue. Also, why is it wired to the brake light circuit? That means when you blow that fuse you have no tail/brake light as well. But, why even have it wired to the brake light circuit when all Vulcans have two accessory power circuits already wired into the bike; white wire/blue line, is already separately fused, on a 10 amp fuse. On the attached wiring diagram, the accessory wires are right above the image of the headlight.

Also, just because they are LED bulbs doesn't mean low amperage draw. Some LED bulbs of high output can draw as much as conventional bulbs. I wired twin 55 watt LED spotlights into my buddies VN900 on the accessory circuit. No problems running the lights on the 10amp fuse for two years now.
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File Type: jpg VN1600 accessory.jpg (83.6 KB, 15 views)
 
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Old 11-01-2018, 01:30 PM   #11
Sabre-t   Sabre-t is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andyvh1959 View Post
Also, just because they are LED bulbs doesn't mean low amperage draw. Some LED bulbs of high output can draw as much as conventional bulbs. I wired twin 55 watt LED spotlights into my buddies VN900 on the accessory circuit. No problems running the lights on the 10amp fuse for two years now.
Were they actually 55 watts each or produced lumens that were equated to 55 watt incandescent bulbs? LEDs that actually consumed 55 watts would either be so bright that they would be dangerous (and illegal) or so poorly engineered that they wasted most of those watts.
 
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Old 11-01-2018, 06:19 PM   #12
scooter1600   scooter1600 is offline
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Also, just because they are LED bulbs doesn't mean low amperage draw. Some LED bulbs of high output can draw as much as conventional bulbs. I wired twin 55 watt LED spotlights into my buddies VN900 on the accessory circuit. No problems running the lights on the 10amp fuse for two years now.[/QUOTE]

I have 2 10wt LED lights for drivers
equivalent to 110wt light output on each
power draw is 20wt.
less than a tail /brake lamp bulb.
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Old 11-02-2018, 08:58 AM   #13
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I'll have to go back and see what the actual rating was on the LED bulbs I installed in the driving lights I installed on my buddies VN900. They are listed on Ebay as 50watt bulbs. But perhaps that is the "equivalent output" versus the actual rated wattage. When I installed the lights I checked the voltage drop at the battery at idle when I turned on the lights. I wired them with a relay to the 10 amp accessory circuit.
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Old 11-02-2018, 02:14 PM   #14
Sabre-t   Sabre-t is offline
 
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You can't always trust what cheap LED bulbs list as specs, especially on ebay. I just looked at 3 bulbs with almost the exact same description and picture as in your pic. In the details, one said 25W per bulb, another said 50W per, the 3rd said 100W per bulb (even though the product description said 50W!).

The other reason I doubt the claim of 50W per bulb is that a small H3 bulb consuming 50 Watts would get ridiculously hot. Without a major heat sink or a fan, an H3 pulling 50 Watts would burn out in a few hours if not minutes.
 
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Old 11-03-2018, 12:17 AM   #15
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All very good points, especially since near every LED bulb comes from somewhere in China. They can claim whatever they want with no one questioning. I was concerned when I installed the bulbs expecting to see significant voltage top across the battery when the lights came on. Yet, even at idle, the battery voltage remained 13.5 volts, and quickly bumped up to 14.7 volts when I got the revs up to three grand.

That indicates the actual wattage of the two 50 watt bulbs is likely much less that the wattage claimed. But at 50 watts per bulb, at 100 watts total, and 13.5 volts the amp draw is only 7.4 amps, well within the 10 amp fuse on the circuit. Even at 12 volts the amperage is only 8.3 amps.
 
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