Led lights to save on power?

[kkruetzkamp]

I have an 08' 1600 and recently added a set of driving lights from Chuckster, a Triple Whammy, and an extra set of rear turn signals. The signals and marker lights all have the standard 1156/1157 bulbs. Now, when I hit the brakes, the rear signals flash like they are supposed to, but also, you can notice the headlight dimming until the flashing is complete. I'm not really sure but is it possible that there is too much of a load being drawn off the battery to operate everything at once? I also have a "sounds of chrome" speaker system(i think thats what they are but they were on the bike when I bought it used). If anyone thinks that I am drawing too much power, is it possible to replace all the turn signal/marker bulbs with LED's to solve the problem? Any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated.

[cactusjack]

Originally Posted by kkruetzkamp

I have an 08' 1600 and recently added a set of driving lights from Chuckster, a Triple Whammy, and an extra set of rear turn signals. The signals and marker lights all have the standard 1156/1157 bulbs. Now, when I hit the brakes, the rear signals flash like they are supposed to, but also, you can notice the headlight dimming until the flashing is complete. I'm not really sure but is it possible that there is too much of a load being drawn off the battery to operate everything at once? I also have a "sounds of chrome" speaker system(i think thats what they are but they were on the bike when I bought it used). If anyone thinks that I am drawing too much power, is it possible to replace all the turn signal/marker bulbs with LED's to solve the problem? Any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated.

That's weird. At any given time I have my high beam on a set of 55w driving lights and a car stereo blasting and my lights never dim while signaling. Even when I have both pairs of driving lights on.

I would think a Nomad has the capacity to handle the electrical load you're putting on it.

[Sin City Stan]

Originally Posted by kkruetzkamp

I have an 08' 1600 and recently added a set of driving lights from Chuckster, a Triple Whammy, and an extra set of rear turn signals. The signals and marker lights all have the standard 1156/1157 bulbs. Now, when I hit the brakes, the rear signals flash like they are supposed to, but also, you can notice the headlight dimming until the flashing is complete. I'm not really sure but is it possible that there is too much of a load being drawn off the battery to operate everything at once? I also have a "sounds of chrome" speaker system(i think thats what they are but they were on the bike when I bought it used). If anyone thinks that I am drawing too much power, is it possible to replace all the turn signal/marker bulbs with LED's to solve the problem? Any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated.

LEDs will reduce the amp draw. But before spending allot of money on LEDs check all ground connections to the headlight to a point where you remove them and look for hidden corrosion. A couple extra lights should not bog down your alternator.

[kkruetzkamp]

I pulled the headlight bucket off and checked my grounds. I also checked my grounds on the lights that I installed on the rear of the bike as extra brake lights today. From what I can tell, all my connections and grounds are good with no corrosion and no stray wires. I have my driving lights grounded to the bucket with one of the 3 screws that hold the headlight on. I cant figure it out and would kinda like to advoid getting all new leds so if anyone has any other ideas, Im more than open to take a look at anything. It didnt start until I put the triple whammy and the extra brake lights on.

[butch]

Originally Posted by kkruetzkamp

I pulled the headlight bucket off and checked my grounds. I have my driving lights grounded to the bucket with one of the 3 screws that hold the headlight on.

Run a ground wire from the headlight bucket back to the bikes frame. You're currently grounding thru the head bearings. Even if it doesn't solve your problem, it will keep your bearings from being damaged, and costs nothing.

[Sin City Stan]

Originally Posted by butch

Run a ground wire from the headlight bucket back to the bikes frame. You're currently grounding thru the head bearings. Even if it doesn't solve your problem, it will keep your bearings from being damaged, and costs nothing.

This should definitely be done.

[chuckster131]

Remove the seat and using a volt meter on DC, test the voltage at the battery. Engine off you should have standing charge of 12.6 or slightly higher. Now start the bike and you should see a charging rate @ 13.7 or higher.

[alangoff]

came from riding a 30 year old honda to a nomad, lightened the electrical load by building my own led driving lights....4 1/2 inch fit the orignal buckets for the orignal lights, instead of drawing 35 watts each maybe 3 watts each......allowed by battery to last an extra season....

[AlabamaNomadRider]

Sounds like it might be some type of short in the wiring.

[cactusjack]

Originally Posted by AlabamaNomadRider

Sounds like it might be some type of short in the wiring.

A short is a path to ground. If he had a short, he'd be blowing fuses.

[mrimpala]

Actually, a short is when two powered wire's conductors touch, popping the fuse. A ground situation is when a powered wire's conductor touches a bare piece of metal, also popping a fuse.

It sure sounds like a bad ground. Looking at the ground connections and snuggin them up won't do. You should actually disconnect each ground, yes it is a pain in the arse. Then take a small file or sand paper and clean up the connectors and connector points. You can put a dab of dialectric grease on each connection and reassemble.

Good luck.

[Sin City Stan]

Originally Posted by mrimpala

Actually, a short is when two powered wire's conductors touch, popping the fuse. A ground situation is when a powered wire's conductor touches a bare piece of metal, also popping a fuse.

Good luck.

Actually . . . . the term short circuit originated in the controls industry to describe a circuit being completed in a manner other than through the control device causing whatever was controlled by the circuit to operate.

A good example is "back in the old days" when the pilot lights were switched through the grounded circuit conductor (neutral wire), any time the wire became grounded before the switch the light would come on no matter what position the switch was in. Hence it was taking the "short circuit". This was extremely dangerous wiring method when used for start-stop buttons and was prohibited sometime in the early 60s.

The term is now used loosely to describe most any electric malady from a ground fault which may or may not blow a fuse or circuit breaker depending on the distribution system, to a phase to phase connection that will most assuredly make a loud noise and blow a fuse or circuit breaker.

[leadbelly]

I think your battery is week, it may indicate 12.6 or slightly better voltage but it has no "balls" you might want to load test it.

[kkruetzkamp]

Ill try that leadbelly....i bought the bike used and have no idea how old the battery is. I never even thought of that because I never have problems starting the bike. Thanks!!