Notches on axle adjusters vs getting belt to track center

[Lumberjack]

This is my first belt drive. I was wondering if anyone has to adjust each side of axle individually significantly to get belt to track in center? It was tracking right when I got bike and each side was adjusted off already. I now have it tracking straight but had to adjust each side significantly from the other to get belt center.

[dlars]

Originally Posted by Lumberjack

This is my first belt drive. I was wondering if anyone has to adjust each side of axle individually significantly to get belt to track in center? It was tracking right when I got bike and each side was adjusted off already. I now have it tracking straight but had to adjust each side significantly from the other to get belt center.

I don't know what bike you have. I have a 12 Voyager and its always run on the outside of the rear pulley which is normal. I have 3 buddies with belt drive bikes and none of them run in the center either. My buddies Spyder runs in a different position every time he gets off it. Some of the Victory rear pulleys are the same width as the belt so you don't have to worry about it. I wouldn't worry too much about where it runs as long as the adjusters are even, more about the tension being correct (not way too tight). My manual says to run both adjusters on the same notch so that's where I have it set. If it's not making noise and it isn't singing tight then you're good to go.

[gv550]

The axle adjusters are intended to align the rear wheel to the front wheel. There is no adjustment for belt alignment, the engine sits offset in the frame to keep the belt running on the left side of the front pulley, because it has no right flange, and that results in the belt going to the left of the rear pulley as well.

[tonik]

Just to reiterate. You adjust the notches on each side so they are the same. At that point the belt will track left on the rear pulley as you look at it from the back. Almost, but not quite, right up against it. There will just be a small gap there.

Once you get that done you adjust the tension. And you loosen or tighten each side the same amount.

And generally you need to ride it around the block after you adjust it. Just spinning it doesn't seem to get it to track in it's final spot.

[Lumberjack]

Thanks for the replies. The belt was on the right and the adjusters weren't even when I checked it - it was this way when I purchased it used. I thought the belt should be dead center and will re-adjust so the rear wheel is straight and see how the belt is after that.

[Lumberjack]

So I adjusted belt tonight and mine rides on right side. I left it a bit loose from spec @ 5mm. Took for a ride and no noise. Should I be concerned?

[dlars]

Originally Posted by Lumberjack

So I adjusted belt tonight and mine rides on right side. I left it a bit loose from spec @ 5mm. Took for a ride and no noise. Should I be concerned?

They don't all ride on the left side, there are some that ride on the right. As long as the notches are the same, the axle is aligned straight and you are good to go. Go ride that thing

[Peg]

Originally Posted by Lumberjack

So I adjusted belt tonight and mine rides on right side. I left it a bit loose from spec @ 5mm. Took for a ride and no noise. Should I be concerned?

I wouldn't call 5mm loose... I run mine at 10mm or thereabouts at 10lbs pressure. Too tight a belt has already cost me a set of pulleys and a belt, (but fortunately not a final drive bearing) so maybe I'm veering too far the other way, but I'm keeping a very close eye on things now, and this tension has been optimum so far.

[Lumberjack]

3 - 4.5mm is what manual says so I am just above the high side at 5mm (it may be a wee bit more even). To each their own :)

Originally Posted by Peg

I wouldn't call 5mm loose... I run mine at 10mm or thereabouts at 10lbs pressure. Too tight a belt has already cost me a set of pulleys and a belt, (but fortunately not a final drive bearing) so maybe I'm veering too far the other way, but I'm keeping a very close eye on things now, and this tension has been optimum so far.

[twowheeladdict]

I am going to go out on a limb here and say that you adjust a belt drive bike similar to a chain drive bike. That means using a drive belt alignment tool. Which functions like a chain alignment tool.

You also want your wheels to be closely aligned for tracking and tire wear.

I recall someone back in 2010 actually had to adjust the engine mounts to align both the wheels and the drive belt correctly.

[Sabre-t]

Originally Posted by Lumberjack

3 - 4.5mm is what manual says so I am just above the high side at 5mm (it may be a wee bit more even). To each their own :)

I adjusted mine to 5 mm and had a lot of trannie whine. This is one case (I think there are others, too) where the factory specs are just not acceptable. A lot of 1700 owners have posted on this and other sites that their bikes suffered damage like Peg mentioned when using the factory specs. I also ended up with 10 mm and it runs great now. No whine at all. The adjusters are exactly equal (measured with the notches and from the swing arm). The belt tracks dead center.

BTW, since the adjusters were not aligned before, check your brake pads, if you haven't already, for excessive wear at one end or the other. The rim was not straight, so the rotor was not straight with respect to the calipers. The adjusters were not even on my bike when purchased, either, and I had considerably more wear on the front of the pads than the back. I'm keeping a close watch on final drive bearing because of that. So far, it seems to be OK. I will probably change it out next tire change.

[dlars]

Originally Posted by twowheeladdict

I am going to go out on a limb here and say that you adjust a belt drive bike similar to a chain drive bike. That means using a drive belt alignment tool. Which functions like a chain alignment tool.

You also want your wheels to be closely aligned for tracking and tire wear.

I recall someone back in 2010 actually had to adjust the engine mounts to align both the wheels and the drive belt correctly.

In the end that didn't work out too well for him. I seem to recall the dealership told him to return the engine back to factory location for warranty reasons.

[dlars]

Originally Posted by Peg

I wouldn't call 5mm loose... I run mine at 10mm or thereabouts at 10lbs pressure. Too tight a belt has already cost me a set of pulleys and a belt, (but fortunately not a final drive bearing) so maybe I'm veering too far the other way, but I'm keeping a very close eye on things now, and this tension has been optimum so far.

At what mileage did you replace your pulleys/belt? I have a front pulley that has a nice groove wore into it from the belt and it makes some noise also. I have a new pulley and am going to swap it out, but my rear pulley and belt look fine

[Peg]

Originally Posted by dlars

At what mileage did you replace your pulleys/belt? I have a front pulley that has a nice groove wore into it from the belt and it makes some noise also. I have a new pulley and am going to swap it out, but my rear pulley and belt look fine

My bike got it's third belt, and it's second set of pulleys, at 24,500km (15,200 miles!)

It was purely through being over-tensioned by a dealer, during the previous ownership. I thought it a bit odd when I saw a receipt for a new belt among the documentation passed on to me, and then when I took the rear wheel off the bike soon after I bought it to have a new tire fitted, I found two-thirds of the belt teeth cracked right through, and the teeth on both pulleys worn down to stubs. Kevlar is very strong, and wore that alloy away like it was nothing.

I've now done the same mileage again (it's over 55,000km now) without any further signs of belt or pulley wear. That can only be thanks to less tension on the belt.

[Lumberjack]

5mm is over OEM specs but I am wondering if going more is acceptable? Everyone else chime in please. How much deflection are you using?