HUH? Last year you bought a 2000 model year bike with 195 mies on it? That some kind of typo?
Then there is no way the bike is hotter due to the mods, unless the cobra unit isn't working.
Now if it isn't working you would know it right? Because if it isn't you will have PING.
I think there may be a problem, but it showed up at the same time by chance.
Just due to age I would suspect a faulty T stat, and or perhaps some clogged up raditor tubings.
I would check the rad first since it's cleaner and all dry.(remove the grill screen) Fire up the bike and stay around feeling the rad at the top first, waiting for the T stat to open. Once the top of the rad gets hot watch out you don't get burned. I use the back of my hands for this so if I do get burned i can still work.
As the engine heats up the coolant feel lower and lower on the rad and 'discover' if the entire rad gets uniformly hot, or is there colder places.
If low on the rad fins you find cold spots that rad needs a flush bad.. It may or not fix the rad, but it's worth a try. In the old days we 'Rodded Out ' rads with a wellding rod, and reamed each and every coolant tube out to be clean by hand with a rod.
No one I know of but me still does that work, and it's hard work. You are sure to get a blister on yer little finger and another on yer thumb
Plus one must be expert at soldering the end tank removed in order to rod the tubes. The end caps have a nasty habit of curling up when they get removed as well.
With good luck the rad will be evenly heated and show sign that the tubes are not clogged up bad.
If not try a chemical flush possible from Siloo brand flush if you can find it. That is draining all the coolant, a pre water flush to rid all the coolant, then adding the chems and water and riding that way over several days. (Don't do this in freezing temps)
If then the fan comes on too much and I think it is, since in NH mine won't come on untill the engine idles up a while, the T stat (thermostat) may be sticking due to age.
It might stick closed riding some and open rapidly at stops, dumping hot coolant into the rad overly fast. T stats an do some weird stuff. These are ez to change out and if yours is the same age as the bike you might just do it for grins.
Another idea and I am not sure about this one, is to get a infra red tester light pointed at the rad before and after the fan cycles. I don't have that tool, never did and so am not sure what it might tell.
And last the switch might be fubarred.. It is a bi-metalic switch, and these can go bad from time to time.
In NH my fan almost never comes on, but then I live rural and have to go hunt down things like red lights and stop for them.