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Originally Posted by sharps45100
Mac I have a question about the swing arm lube. Why must you get new seals, can't you grease without taking seals out? Am I missing something here. Will be doing this soon as my rear tire is almost worn and will be putting my CT on. I've seen your posts telling people to do the swing arm and drive shaft and beleive me I'm going to. Want my bike to last a very long time.
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There are many reasons you can't reuse the old seals.
The first reason is the back side you last drive in to place acts as a thrust washer, and so the back side of the seal wears out, rubbing on the frame, as the swing arm slides side to side in each curve you ever rode.
There is no good way to install a zerk fitting, with out lots of machine work and even then it is high doubtfull that you would inject grease and get it to any place you want it.
The drive shaft spline top and bottom must also be greased with a moly grease, as well as the gear box spline to rear wheel.
It is very important to KNOW if you have a good or bad U Joint.
The factory has a on going fubar problem where 1 plane in the U joint gets no grease, because the joint is air bound.
There is no way to know if you have a good or bad joint with out checking it.
I had a bad U joint on my 01 and not on my 06.. Thar's just no tellin if what you got has any dammned grease!
The long pivot bolt holding the swing arm on the bike needs another stiff marine grease IMO. This would be used on the swing arm end bearings, all sides of the 3 spacers, inside wall of the swing arm tube, all sides of the long bolt.
Every single surface in the swing arm tube should be greased up hard, which will take up some space and reduce swing arm slop.
Now my 06 U joint was a good one, but the rest of this had nearly no grease at all. The 3 spacers in the swing arm tube were rusty all over inside and outside and the ends were too! That was with 9,000 miles when I changed the rear tire.
The driveshaft splines had slug what little moly lube there was away too.
The swingarm bearings retained a stingy smidgen of grease some sort of white lube I guess..
The 1600's need a dob of moly grease in the top shock mounts too, as there is needle bearings there, and the bottoms should get a dob of rubber lube.
The 4 acorn nuts to rear gear box should get a good dose of antiseize. Water had entered mine and the studs were turning white from galvanic action, a sort of pre rust..
You will also need no matter what kind of exhaust system 2 head to head pipe gaskets.. These studs should be serviced at this time too.
I wire brush mine by hand (no power tools) Then mask off where the nuts will be, and use rattle can hi temp flat black misted into the cap from the rattle can, and apply it with a small water color brush (El Cheapo)
Anti seize the stud threads where the nuts will go last.
This is in hope of preserving the studs.
Of course the chrome will burn off these acorn nuts in time and so I have replaced mine with stainless, and polished them to appear to be chrome on a buffing wheel.
You will need a new cotter pin for the rear axel and it might as well be stainless too.
'IF' you have a stock exhaust, this IS the time to replace the rubber goat bladder mounts as these will have started to cook, and the bolt will have started to rust and heat seize into the mounts.
When I do any work at all I go thru every bit of it and make it all right, and sometimes better than right.
With a CT on my rear it might well be 20,000 miles before I go back in there for a thing.
Several guys are working out a way to make thrust washers in different materials. These would fit the spacers in the swingarm tube outside the seals.
The ID would be the seals ID, the OD would be larger than the seals OD. The thickness will depend on what slop is with grease and new seals installed.
What ever the slop is. then would be divided by 2 and that would be how thick each thrust washer would be.
No bike is going to match another bike as the tolerances for swing arms in general is really wide.