clutch handle
 

I have a 2011 kawasaki Voyager with 52000.km I am noticing that when the bike warms up to operating temp my clutch handle feels soft and is in the full extend position when I release it.

I am thinking of replacing the clutch springs is this a good idea?

Thanks

R.B

Hello and Welcome to the forum.

I think its unlikely that the clutch springs need replacing at 52,000 kms.
Is the clutch slipping ?

"clutch handle feels soft and is in the full extend position when I release it".

Are you saying the clutch lever is fully out before the clutch engages ?

I am also confused by this “full extended position when I release it” comment. The clutch handle should return to it’s normal full extended position (out) when released so, what are you actually trying to say? Is the handle still contracted in towards the grip when you release it?

a 7 year old bike with 52000 Kim's. maybe the clutch reservoir is low on oil. if not it's probably over due for a flush and refill anyway. also a good time to flush and fill brakes too as it uses the same fluid. just a thought.

Yes, like was suggested, change the fluid.

You should change the clutch and brake fluids every 2 years.

Also make sure the return vent hole is not plugged.

If the clutch is not slipping, then don't bother opening it up to change the spring.

If the spring is going bad, you will be slipping, especially when rolling on the throttle without downshifting.

Welcome to the forum. You've come to the right place for answers.

I hope you just mis-spoke. Please DO NOT put oil in the clutch reservoir! I needs brake fluid. Oil will swell the rubber parts.

good catch H8BUGSZ my bad.

use DOT4 brake fluid ONLY in clutch and brakes reservoir. :D:D:D

So maybe it's the setting on the clutch handle they're talking about? The dial on the handle?

Can't find a good picture of it. This is as close as I could get. Obviously the wrong side, and for a different bike, but pretty close.

I have been down this road, if the fluid change does not fix it (and I don't think it will) do the below:

Under the left side cover is a slave cylinder. Works just like a brake caliper. It is not very water or dirt proof. Your piston is crudded up and sticking. They mixed aluminum and steel/iron in there. The water from the rain causes exactly what you would expect..that expanding corrosion. And yes the behavior changes dramatically cold vs hot.

Pull the cover then remove the fluid line to the cylinder and drain the fluid. Then pull the cylinder assembly and carefully pull the piston out. Then clean the inside of the cylinder with some very fine sandpaper or emery cloth, same with the piston. I ordered new seals before I tore mine down just in case I tore one of them. But I didn't and I doubt you will either, its a very easy job. I now do it as part of my spring maintenance each year.

It will get worse, and it will start to slip.