smokier
05-07-2017, 08:22 AM
Greetings,
The stock front turn signal bar looked disproportionate to me in comparison to the front end as a whole. Felt like there had to be a way to use the front louvers as signal housings and create a clean look to the front end. So, came up with the following.
From SuberBrightLEDS.com purchased a 7.8" 6 LED bar ($35). This is the replacement for the running lights.
From SuperBrightLEDS.com purchased four of the wedge marker (amber) .78" x 2.9" ($22). They are somewhat triangular shaped (Peaked), so stick out (forward) to be more visible. These clearance lights fit nicely in between the louvers where the aux driving lights would mount. These replace the turn signals.
8 sets of Stainless Steel locknut, washers and machine screws. ($4)
LOAD EQUALIZER ($6)
Total: $67
Steps:
Removed the headlight bezel.
Removed the headlight and disconnected.
Disconnected the two turn signal wiring couplers.
Removed the OEM front turn signal bar. The two bolts are under the headlight assembly.
Snipped the OEM wiring connectors from the turn signals, giving myself about four inches of lead on each of the connectors.
Removed the left and right storage pockets.
Removed left and right speaker grills, speakers and tubes.
Removed the louvers.
Measured and mounted the wedge marker lights to the back plate of the louvers. Two marker LEDs on each side. Originally wired one as RUN and the other as TURN, however, have changed so both are TURN. Positioned the markers so that they fit/slide in between the louvers.
Added the LOAD EQUALIZER for the turn signals.
Black-RED = Ground | Green-RED = TURN | Blue-RED = RUN.
Made a bracket to mount where the old turn signal bar was located for the new LED bar “running light”.
The bracket looks like a ‘pi’ symbol ( ∏ ), with the two legs going to the original mount points. The cross bar connects to the LED bracket.
Note: The length of the legs needs to be at least 2.25” inches to provide enough forward placement of the LED bar, so that the fork tube covers do not contact the light bar during a full turn. Originally, the two legs were an inch each. This was not long enough, the forks would contact the light bar, not allowing a full stop to stop turn. The current legs are 2.5” and there is room to spare. The bar is under and slightly behind the headlamp.
Reassembled in reverse order.
While I have not ridden at night yet, the running light does seem to put out a nice spread (FLOOD light model vs SPOT light model). There is an AMBER colored lens, which I may get.
Here are the photos…
The stock front turn signal bar looked disproportionate to me in comparison to the front end as a whole. Felt like there had to be a way to use the front louvers as signal housings and create a clean look to the front end. So, came up with the following.
From SuberBrightLEDS.com purchased a 7.8" 6 LED bar ($35). This is the replacement for the running lights.
From SuperBrightLEDS.com purchased four of the wedge marker (amber) .78" x 2.9" ($22). They are somewhat triangular shaped (Peaked), so stick out (forward) to be more visible. These clearance lights fit nicely in between the louvers where the aux driving lights would mount. These replace the turn signals.
8 sets of Stainless Steel locknut, washers and machine screws. ($4)
LOAD EQUALIZER ($6)
Total: $67
Steps:
Removed the headlight bezel.
Removed the headlight and disconnected.
Disconnected the two turn signal wiring couplers.
Removed the OEM front turn signal bar. The two bolts are under the headlight assembly.
Snipped the OEM wiring connectors from the turn signals, giving myself about four inches of lead on each of the connectors.
Removed the left and right storage pockets.
Removed left and right speaker grills, speakers and tubes.
Removed the louvers.
Measured and mounted the wedge marker lights to the back plate of the louvers. Two marker LEDs on each side. Originally wired one as RUN and the other as TURN, however, have changed so both are TURN. Positioned the markers so that they fit/slide in between the louvers.
Added the LOAD EQUALIZER for the turn signals.
Black-RED = Ground | Green-RED = TURN | Blue-RED = RUN.
Made a bracket to mount where the old turn signal bar was located for the new LED bar “running light”.
The bracket looks like a ‘pi’ symbol ( ∏ ), with the two legs going to the original mount points. The cross bar connects to the LED bracket.
Note: The length of the legs needs to be at least 2.25” inches to provide enough forward placement of the LED bar, so that the fork tube covers do not contact the light bar during a full turn. Originally, the two legs were an inch each. This was not long enough, the forks would contact the light bar, not allowing a full stop to stop turn. The current legs are 2.5” and there is room to spare. The bar is under and slightly behind the headlamp.
Reassembled in reverse order.
While I have not ridden at night yet, the running light does seem to put out a nice spread (FLOOD light model vs SPOT light model). There is an AMBER colored lens, which I may get.
Here are the photos…