Wiring Light Bar for Hi & Lo Beam ?

[Topangajack]

Hi, newbie here with a question:

I just got a Kawa Light Bar for my 2011 Nomad and want to wire it so that:

1.) I can run it on either Lo and Hi beam, and
2.) power cuts out when the starter engages (like the regular headlight does).

My problem is finding the appropriate headlight wire before it comes out of the Hi/Lo handlebar switch, so that I can make this work. Any one know which wire it is (color code) and where I can conveniently splice in a switch wire to it (for a relay)?

Any other ideas how to get this done?

Thanks
-Jack

PS Is there a wiring color-chart I can download?

[VulcanE]

There should be 2 wire connectors in the headlight bucket, one black with gold tracer, and I think the other is white with red tracer. The black/gold is ground, and the other is always hot. Also in the headlight bucket is the connections for the front running and turn lights. Use a meter or circuit tester (looks like an ice pick with a light in the handle) to see which wire is a running light, pick one either left or right, and use it to trigger your relay, and use the always hot wire to go thru the relay and power the lights. and you can ground them to one of the bolts that mount the headlight bucket to the forks. I would strongly suggest also running a ground wire from the forks to the fram where you won't be using your steering bearings as a ground path, it'll pit the races and wear out the steering bearings.

[HwyRider]

I have a 2010 and it has the spare connector in the headlight bucket. Just plug in to that and you're good to go. The instructions that come with it a straight forward.

[HwyRider]

You don't need to find wires for the switches in the bucket. Just plug in as the instruction say and the lights will run fine on high or low.

[HwyRider]

Page 63 of my owner's manual gives you the location and colors of the accessory wires both in the headlight bucket and under the seat. It should be the same for your bike.

[Topangajack]

Thanks guys. All of your suggestions are good and will get the job done - but maybe not quite the way that I prefer.

I've been told that on a 1600 there is a Blue/Yellow wire in the bucket that feeds the headlight dimmer switch. If the 1700 has that wire too, it could be what I'm looking for: switched power that dims when you start the bike, plus power for both hi and low beam. I'll look for this wire just as soon as I can and report back.

-Jack

[HwyRider]

Just use the spare accessory plug in the bucket. It's what you're looking for.

[HwyRider]

If you go tapping in to other wires you'll be doing it for no good reason. The accessory plug is only hot after the bike has been started and your lights will be on no matter what if you select high or low beam.

[Topangajack]

"The accessory plug is only hot after the bike has been started and your lights will be on no matter what if you select high or low beam. "

That doesn't seem to be how my accessory plug is wired (the yellow accessory wire in the bucket) - It makes the spots come on once the ignition is switched on, and they stay on even while the engine is being started. I'm told this isn't good for the starter.

I want the spots to be just like the headlight - off until the engine starts. Are you using a different accessory plug than me?
Thanks

-Jack

[HwyRider]

Nope. I wired it to the accessory plug just as the Kawasaki instruction stated.

It's not going to hurt anything. I also have a stereo that is tripped from the accessory plug under the seat.

[Topangajack]

"Nope. I wired it to the accessory plug just as the Kawasaki instruction stated...."

Hmm... I'm even more confused now than I was before.

The instructions that came with my Light Bar (OEM) http://www.kawasaki.com/Site/kawasaki/techpubs/English/instl_instr/ii_K32001015.pdf
say to tap into the Red/Yellow (low beam) power wire with a Scotchlock connector. But if you do it that way, the spots will only come on with the low beam. So I used the yellow accessory plug instead. All is good except that that circuit is live when the starter is engaged - unlike the headlight circuit.

I wonder if Kawa made some changes ...?

[HwyRider]

They changed it.

[HwyRider]

You're still only pressing the start button for a second or two after you turn the key on so it really shouldn't make a difference.

[SC50]

My previous bike was a Suzuki Boulevard, and many owners had problems running light bars off the ignition switch. It would fry the switch quite easily, but even Suzuki instructions for their light bars stated to tap into the spare accessory wire in the headlight bucket for power regardless. I presume Kawasaki had the ignition switch in mind when they setup the headlight to only come on after the starter had been engaged, so I'd be cautious of using the spare wire in the headlight bucket as well. Could be apples to oranges, but I plan to play it safe when I make my light bar for the Nomad.

[Topangajack]

My previous bike was a Suzuki Boulevard, and many owners had problems running light bars off the ignition switch. It would fry the switch quite easily, but even Suzuki instructions for their light bars stated to tap into the spare accessory wire in the headlight bucket for power regardless. I presume Kawasaki had the ignition switch in mind when they setup the headlight to only come on after the starter had been engaged, so I'd be cautious of using the spare wire in the headlight bucket as well. Could be apples to oranges, but I plan to play it safe when I make my light bar for the Nomad.

Same thing with the Honda Aero. So, most advise using a relay to avoid the problem.

Your 1600 should have a dimmer switch feed wire in the bucket that would be perfect for your relay switched power source (terminal 86 of relay). It is Blue/Yellow.

(I'm hoping to find the same wire in my 1700, but haven't yet).

UPDATE: Yes, the 1700 Nomad does have the Blue/Yellow dimmer switch feed wire in the headlight bucket. I tapped into it to power my spots - this way they are switched by the key and go off when the starter motor is spinning. I'll probably go back later and add a handlebar switch and a relay triggered by this wire. Fused power can come from the yellow accessory wire in the bucket.

-Jack

[HwyRider]

All of the early C50's had the issue with the ignition wiring frying if the light bar wasn't tripped through a relay. These bikes aren't C50's or Aero's.

There should be a repair manual on the site somewhere that will have a wiring schematic.

[HwyRider]

Looks like the link to the manual link doesn't work.

[HwyRider]

Here's the wiring diagram. Hope it helps.

http://www.vulcanbagger.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=5716&stc=1&d=1393428136

[Topangajack]

Thanks!

-Jack

[Topangajack]

UPDATE #2: I rewired the spots to use an automotive relay and handlebar switch.

The relay is triggered by the blue/yellow dimmer switch wire in the headlight bucket via a switch mounted on the handlebars. I used a small waterproof push-button switch costing under $8 at Amazon.com that I mounted with double-sided tape near the dimmer switch. It looks clean. Power is supplied by the yellow accessory wire in the bucket.

Maybe a relay is overkill, but I went this route because I feel more confident having a separate circuit for the spots, especially if I ever upgrade to higher wattage bulbs. In particular, I don't want to risk burning out my starter switch.

I also like the way this setup is ignition switched and is "off" while the starter is spinning (like the headlight). The handlebar switch is there "just in case."

Thanks again to all for helping out with your ideas and advice.

-Jack