Code 51 and 52

[razwrld]

I was running down the freeway at 80 enjoying myself when the motor shut down....can cause you to pucker up. Got to the side and the dash was flashing back and forth the codes 51 and 52. Called the local dealer service department and they said "no idea", that is another story.

The bike is a 2011 vaquero with 7500 miles. The only thing i have done electrically is run a hot to the battery for the wolo air horn and a hot and cold to the battery for the heated gear. I did not use a fuse block. This is the second time the bike has done this. Took it to the shop the first time and they said that the battery connections were loose.

I checked them today and they were tight. I sat there on the side of the road and decided to try to start it again after 25 minutes. I put the bike in nuetral and it cranked....something strange is going on.....any one else come across these codes ? Thanks ahead of time for any help...

[RACNRAY]

#51 is failure of #1(front) ignition coil.
#52 is failure of #2(rear) ignition coil.

Specifically the prmary windings of the coils will develope either a short or an open circuit.

Both coils will very seldom fail at the same time.

This could also be a loss of 12 volts to the coils, the 12 volts come from the kill switch, also check the ignition fuse. This could also be a defective ECU.

GOOD LUCK

RACNRAY

[razwrld]

Thank you for the exact answer. We have thought it could be the fuel filter. It is still under warranty....so to the Dealer I go...thank you

[cactusjack]

If the dealer had no idea what the codes were, I think I'd take it elsewhere for the work.

[Sin City Stan]

#51 is failure of #1(front) ignition coil.
#52 is failure of #2(rear) ignition coil.

Specifically the prmary windings of the coils will develope either a short or an open circuit.

Both coils will very seldom fail at the same time.

This could also be a loss of 12 volts to the coils, the 12 volts come from the kill switch, also check the ignition fuse. This could also be a defective ECU.

GOOD LUCK

RACNRAY

Great Analysis Ray. :tup: This is just like having a service department in your computer. :D

[rickyboy]

Nice bit of quick help for sure..... and I think I'd be finding a different mechanic too Scott.

[R_W_B]

If you don't have the PCV with ignition advance, then I agree with Ray it could very well be the ECU. I got these errs when I first installed my PCV. I took the PCV off and the errs went away.

Dynojet replaced my PCV under warranty, the new one worked like a charm (with no err 51 and 52). Not sure what to make of a dealer that gave you that answer. That data is in the manual.

[ACDCfn]

Took my bike to a detailer ones who power washed it "with great care no to splash electronics". Sure enough got error 51 and bike wouldn't start. Towed it to dealer who said Power Commander went bad from getting wet. Dynojet replaced it and after reinstall bike started with no errors.

[razwrld]

Do not know what a PCV is. Rode the Bike all day Saturday and ran great. If the ignition coils are bad , would it start at all ? Odd...runs good now.....trying to figure it out......appreciate all of the help....

[R_W_B]

. . . . . The only thing i have done electrically is run a hot to the battery for the wolo air horn and a hot and cold to the battery for the heated gear. I did not use a fuse block. . . . .

Do not know what a PCV is. Rode the Bike all day Saturday and ran great. If the ignition coils are bad , would it start at all ? Odd...runs good now.....trying to figure it out......appreciate all of the help....

I did not mean to confuse with the PCV, you did not include it in your first post listing extra electric, so I probably should not have brought it up. The PCV is an added tuner some folks use.

I'm wondering if your coils are starting to go bad and only do so when the heat builds up from running. Additionally you may have a sensor somewhere doing the same heat related issue, somehow causing the ECU to shut down the ignition (which as Ray said feeds the primary side of the coils). Or a bad connection or grd somewhere doing the same.

If you have more than one shop available, maybe try getting another diagnostic.
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Added later:
You can do a simple resistance test to each of your coils, but this may or may not show a heat related failing issue.
With your ignition OFF.

Set your tester meter to Ohms on the lowest range it has (unless it's lower than 10 ohms)
Then put one tester probe on each of a single coil's wire terminals (you might have to pull the connectors off a bit). The tester should read 2.1 ~ 2.5 ohms
---
Now set your tester meter to the 1k ohm range.
Then (if you can access it) put a tester lead on the spark plug terminal lead coming out of the coil. Put the other lead on the primary side terminal of the coil.

The tester should read 10.4 ~ 15.6 k ohms

The primary side of the coils will be the red wire with a stripe. The negative side will be a black wire or black wire with a stripe.
If I remember correctly those coil wires (going to the plugs) are one unit with the coils. In other words I don't think they separate from the coil (unless you force them out which could damage the connection). Hopefully you can get the cap to slide back enough to get a tester probe on it.