Miles per oil change

[1700king]

I was reading owners manual and seen where they recommend changing oil every 7500 miles on a 1700 vaquero does that sound right,I change mine at every 4000 with amsoil

[Jared]

I think most people tend to agree with you that 7500 is too long of intervals. With a good synthetic motorcycle oil 4000 miles sounds about right.

[usranger74]

I would be surprised if you find anyone who agrees with the manual. I think most folks on this site change around 3500-4500 miles.

[Yellow Jacket]

5000 miles. If I rode more, I would probably do 7000. These are not 1940s or 1950s engines.

[Top Cat]

I go 5000 between oil and filter changes.

[RACNRAY]

The manufacturors WOULD NOT recommend 7500 mile oil changes if that was not a feasible and realistic mileage figure to run the appropriate oil.

As a true believer in the advancements made in oils I see no reason to run oil for considerably less mileage than what is recommended. Changing out a good oil like Amsoil at 4000-5000 miles is a waste of good oil that is still doing a good job in what it's supposed to do.

I average about 6700 miles between oil changes, with the lowest miles on oil @ 5400 and the highest @ 7904. After changing the oil that ran 7904 mls I was expecting a big improvement in how the skoot ran and felt. It did shift a little bit smoother but there wasn't any noticeable improvements.

I carry Amsoil's m/c oils ansd also their Premium auto oil which is JASO MA certified. It is not m/c specific but serves my customers at a lower price point. I have also used that oil in my Vaq and my Busa. In the Vaq I can tell it does not provide the shifting smoothness of the m/c oil and the shifting quality really deteriorates after 5000 miles.

Funny how we feel about oil and oil change intervals. But think of this. The manufacturors DO NOT want to pay out in warrantee claims, and if they are recommending certain maintenance criteria you can believe it is well within reason that they won't be causing damage to thir pocketbooks.

I once met a guy that had over 49,000 miles on his skoot and had changed the oil, get this...49 TIMES, EVERY 1000 MILES!! Excess? Not to him it wasn't.

I guess we all have our comfort zones in all aspects of our lives. What kind of people are we comfy hangin out with,how far and long do we ride, what brand of oil and how long do we run it for. Experience has taught me that I can be comfy with running good oil up to and even a bit past the maker's recommended interval. I have saved a bunch of money and labor time in doing so and this skoot does not use ANY oil in between oil changes, gets great gas mileage and runs very strong. Add to that I am using the same Scotts lifetime oil filter that I installed on my 1998 ZX9 and was on it for over 25,000 miles, transferred to 2 different ZX14'S for a total of 21,000 mls between the 2, and now 40,000+ miles on this
Vaq I feel that I am minimizing the negative impact to the environment also.

RACNRAY

[Tynker]

I go 5000 between oil and filter changes.

I agree, and use regular GTX 20/50 oil.

[Cajunrider]

Mine is changed every 5,000 miles at the dealership, only because I purchased the 3 year service plan. With the advanced synthetic oils of today, I wouldn't be concerned with going 7,000 miles as long as shifting remains smooth.

[Jared]

As a true believer in the advancements made in oils I see no reason to run oil for considerably less mileage than what is recommended. Changing out a good oil like Amsoil at 4000-5000 miles is a waste of good oil that is still doing a good job in what it's supposed to do.

Do you think this statement is still true with a good dino oil or only with Synthetic?

[manban9888]

I use amsoil 10w40 on all my bikes and change it out at 3000 unless I'm on the road. I just changed it before coming to the SE rally at Blairsville and will wait til I get back from Antlers to change it again. That will be about 5000 miles. Fresh oil can't hurt.

[jd521]

I do not use the good oil most of you use ,if you gauge all good oil on synthetics. Guess I just waste oil,filter and my labor. I have right at 7 K on my Vaquero and I am ready for the third oil change. I use the Brad Penn V -Twin ( Green Oil ) just because I know how this oil treats roller lifters in a race motor. To each his own. All these topics on oil is always interesting on how each handles their particular maintenance, I just like to read all of them each and every time they come up. My used oil goes in a 55 gallon sealed drum and gets picked up by people who use those waste oil burners for heating interior buildings in the winter time. guess I am donating to their cause each year.

[dale55]

Oil technology has come light years from where it used to be. Changing oil at 3 or even 4 thousand miles is a waste of money and only puts more money in the hands of companies that have too much already.

[Dave]

I agree 100% with what RACNRAY just posted about oil change intervals.

I don't know why more people just don't send their oil in for an analysis if they're concerned about how their oil's holding out. I bet most will find they're changing too often.

[HwyRider]

I'll do mine at 7k. I see no reason to doubt the manual.

Oil changes use to be at 3K or 3 months which ever came first. That's what the mechanics use to tell us. If I didn't drive 3k in a 3 month period I wouldn't bring the vehicle in for an oil change. I would wait until I hit 3k.

[Yellow Jacket]

The service companies that change oil, the mechanics that tout 3,000 mile oil changes and the oil companies just love the people that have bought into the myth of the 3k or 3 month change interval. It's your money, do with it what you want.

As for me, I'll change it at the intervals the manufacturers give. Been doing that for over 50 years in all my vehicles. I've never had an oil related failure in any of them.

P.S. All my vehicles end up with well over 100,000 miles. Some closer to 300,000.

[trosco]

Well,,,, I live in the south and can ride pretty much year round. I put about 15,000 miles a year on my 2010 wing and about 7,500 a year on the 2007 Nomad. I use JASO MA certified oils that meet the API classification required by each manufacturer in both bikes. I am not saying the brand or type (full sys, blend, dino) cause I don't think that matters. As long as the oil meets or exceeds the mfgr's requirements you can use any brand and type and you will be ok,,,,, so long as you follow your mfgr's change intervals. Most mfgr's include both miles and time in their interval recommendations and they all have "under severe conditions" disclaimers. I ride smooth, am not real aggressive, almost 100% 1 up and never tow but sometimes I ride at high speeds in extreme heat. I normally change the Nomad every 5,000 miles or 6 months, which ever comes first. On the Wing it's every 6,000 or 6 months and the 6 months factor rarely every is a consideration. If I have significant riding under "severe conditions" I cut the miles back by 25%.

[Jared]

Out of curiosity, what does time have to do with anything? Seems to me that fresh oil is fresh oil. It doesn't spoil does it? So, if I put fresh oil in a bike in Oct, and put it in storage, why would I need to change it out come spring?

[coacha]

Out of curiosity, what does time have to do with anything? Seems to me that fresh oil is fresh oil. It doesn't spoil does it? So, if I put fresh oil in a bike in Oct, and put it in storage, why would I need to change it out come spring?

You put your bike up for a nap? :P Don't forget to change to spring air in your tires too. :tup:

I change mine around 4-5K normally, or if I know I'm going to be out for an extended trip, like Estes Park this past summer, I did it on a quicker turn around due to the length of that trip.

[trosco]

Jared. After refining and packaging the shelf life of Oil is quite long. Think of it as being in a airtight and free of air container with out having any contaminants introduced to it.
But once you unpackaged it and put it in a engine it is introduced to all kinds of contaminates like old oil and fuel plus carbon deposits and other combustion by products that reside in the motor. Things like oxidation and condensation act on the motor metals and on the oil itself. Acids form and chemical bonds are broken down and new ones are formed. Even if you run the motor only a few times or even if it was just once to check for leaks and circulate thru the motor after you changed it, a lot continues to happen to that oil. Think of it as setting there in a old oil drum that your had just drained a bunch of nasty oil out of. Know that container is not sealed well, what with intake and exhaust valves open and crankcase breathers breathing. Over some length of time enough contamination and chemical changes happen that the oils performance is compromised. What length of time is the real question. I am certain that the days of 3,000 miles or 3 months are over but does that mean that if it takes you 6 years to get 7,000 miles on your new oil and filter you should do it? Probably not. But.... I do what I do because It's what I think is right for me. Each guy has to weigh the statements of oil mfgrs, suppliers, their bike mfgrs recommendations and perhaps the opinions of fellow riders and come up with what works for them.

[garvulcan1700]

I go between 5,00-6,000 miles.

[barticus73]

For those that do put your bikes up for a few months over the winter, do you change the oil before you store the bike, or wait until you are ready to ride in the spring?

[1oldtimer]

For those that do put your bikes up for a few months over the winter, do you change the oil before you store the bike, or wait until you are ready to ride in the spring?


I change my oil BEFORE I put mine up for the winter. I also start and let it get to operating temp every two or three weeks for the duration of the winter.

[Sin City Stan]

I change my oil BEFORE I put mine up for the winter. I also start and let it get to operating temp every two or three weeks for the duration of the winter.

I did the same thing for cars I put up for the Winter. The key is to get to operating temperature whenever you start an engine. That way you're sure of driving out the condensation. That being said it's different when you live in the desert. Not allot of moisture in the air around here. :D

[jd521]

Gotta throw this in. Was out in Western Kansas ,yesterday , and stopped in on a Kawasaki Dealer ,West of Hays ,Ks just off of I-70. He's been in that business for 21 years and 15 years of turning wrenches on the machines. I asked the Proverbial Question and he responded, 2K miles on "Dino " oil & 3K to 3.5 K on Semi Synthethic/Synthetic. He says that is his recommendation because he knows what works. SO my buddy bought 5 Qts. of 10W-40 Kawasaki Semi-Synthetic and a filter from him. I know some or most of you will say he is in the business to sell Oil , and that is fine. Just another interpretation of when you should change oil . Whatever works for ya'.

[RACNRAY]

The mileage figures are WAAAAAAAAY too low for synthetic oil. Especially using a top of the line oil. Just a waste of money.

A forum member a while back posted his oil analysis he had performed on Kawi full synthetic with I believe had over or about 5000 miles on the oil. It was still "in grade", anotherwords still in the specified range for it's viscosity. There were no excess of any metals or contamination. His Vulcan had over 100,000 miles using this oil. Get this, the lab theorized the oil had 1000-1500 miles left of usable service life on that oil.

Kinda blows the 3-3500 mile recomendation out the window.

With my 37 years as a motorcycle technician I have personally witnessed the advancement in oils, and it has been big. Big enuff to allow longer drain intervals.

I pulled out my Kawi service manual for the 1981/82 Kawi KZ1000/1100's. Recommended oil change intervals were only 3100 miles compared to 7500 miles for modern day Kawi's.

The oil specified in 1981 was SE. The new Kawi specs receommend SG and the later specs SH,SJ,AND SM, more advanced oils. I remember speaking with an oil technician at Maxima oils, well when I was at my old shop and that was over 12 years ago, so prolly around the year 2000 or so. He informed me the m/c manufacturors had gotten together with JASO to formulate standards for m/c specific oils, the now recognized MB and MA/MA1/MA2 SPECS. We now have far more advanced oils for our skoots, far better in many ways.

IF Kawi recommends oil drain intervals of 7500 miles on their specified oils, then we must trust the oil manufacturors that produce their oils to those specs that in fact their oils will be good enuff to meet Kawi's recomendations.

No doubt changing oils at lower mileage figures will never hurt an engine, and since oil with 3000 miles is not as good as fresh new oil, skoots may feel better when the oil is changed. But if the oil is still fully capable of protecting the engine in all the ways it is supposed to then why not, especially with the well known high quality oils, run em till they're done.

I also ask my customers how and where they ride their skoots. I believe hiway driving is
easier on the oil than the city stop n go stuff where engine temps are higher. So the percentages of these driving scenarios help me to steer my customers in the direction of proper maintenance intervals for the ways and hows they ride.

RACNRAY

[captj3]

The mileage figures are WAAAAAAAAY too low for synthetic oil. Especially using a top of the line oil. Just a waste of money.

A forum member a while back posted his oil analysis he had performed on Kawi full synthetic with I believe had over or about 5000 miles on the oil. It was still "in grade", anotherwords still in the specified range for it's viscosity. There were no excess of any metals or contamination. His Vulcan had over 100,000 miles using this oil. Get this, the lab theorized the oil had 1000-1500 miles left of usable service life on that oil.

Kinda blows the 3-3500 mile recomendation out the window.

With my 37 years as a motorcycle technician I have personally witnessed the advancement in oils, and it has been big. Big enuff to allow longer drain intervals.

I pulled out my Kawi service manual for the 1981/82 Kawi KZ1000/1100's. Recommended oil change intervals were only 3100 miles compared to 7500 miles for modern day Kawi's.

The oil specified in 1981 was SE. The new Kawi specs receommend SG and the later specs SH,SJ,AND SM, more advanced oils. I remember speaking with an oil technician at Maxima oils, well when I was at my old shop and that was over 12 years ago, so prolly around the year 2000 or so. He informed me the m/c manufacturors had gotten together with JASO to formulate standards for m/c specific oils, the now recognized MB and MA/MA1/MA2 SPECS. We now have far more advanced oils for our skoots, far better in many ways.

IF Kawi recommends oil drain intervals of 7500 miles on their specified oils, then we must trust the oil manufacturors that produce their oils to those specs that in fact their oils will be good enuff to meet Kawi's recomendations.

No doubt changing oils at lower mileage figures will never hurt an engine, and since oil with 3000 miles is not as good as fresh new oil, skoots may feel better when the oil is changed. But if the oil is still fully capable of protecting the engine in all the ways it is supposed to then why not, especially with the well known high quality oils, run em till they're done.

I also ask my customers how and where they ride their skoots. I believe hiway driving is
easier on the oil than the city stop n go stuff where engine temps are higher. So the percentages of these driving scenarios help me to steer my customers in the direction of proper maintenance intervals for the ways and hows they ride.

RACNRAY


Ray I agree on everything you said here, except on one note possibly. Lets just say I was on a very spirited run down to Las Olas with some friends.:lmao: As far as the highway run is concerned it took the bike a very long time to cool down to normal temps. This may effect some of the life of the oil, but I still wouldn't change it with less than 5k on regular dino.

[RACNRAY]

Lets just say I was on a very spirited run down to Las Olas with some friends.:lmao:

You HOOLIGAN!!

[hammer]

I am still using Rotella 15w40 and it is JASO MA rated. I tried the 5W40 synthetic version and noticed no difference at all. Shifting is smooth and top end noise the same. I would not wait 7,000 miles to change oil on the bike no matter what I was using but the oil change routine I have also includes a look at other stuff on the bike so I catch things before they become problems on the road. I change every 4,000 to 4500 kilometers (less than 3,000 miles). I am not worried at all if I go 5,500K either. I have had the 15W40 tested twice after 5,000K trips and there was no appreciable breakdown in the 15w40 oil.

[jmesser]

WOW!!! I'm so surprised how many people are going against what the service manual says. And most of you are using synthetic oil and changing it at 3-5k? That's like wiping before ya poop. Makes no sense at all. The manufacturer wouldn't recommend 7500 miles if the oil wasn't doing the job. And btw that's with regular Kaw oil!!! I run asmoil 10w40 in my voyager and will never change oil before 7500 miles. Amsoil is the best oil out there and as a matter of fact I've done oil samples from amsoil and sent them in for testing and the oil came back good at 7500. My dad has a 2013 harley ultra limited and changes his every 10,000 with amsoil. He and I have both talked to the dealer and showed them our results with amsoil and they knew the results. They just don't want to tell you because that's less oil they'll move from the shelf.

So just keep wasting your money at 3-5k cuz your not helping your motor no matter how much you think you are. I'm not saying there's anything wrong for those of you who do, but just think about it. I've heard so many say that when they change oil it still looks new. Well, no shit, that's because you've only ridden half the amount you were suppose to!!! :wtf:

[RACNRAY]

When the manufacturor states specs on the required oil and mileage for intervals on oil changes there are ALWAYS specifications the oil MUST fulfill to meet those requirements for oil quality and the intervals.

In my 37 years werkin on skoots I can't ever remember seeing specs dictating any type of oil, that is petroleum/semi syn/ full synthetic. Only viscosity, the API rating and any specs relating to the clutch.

So if Kawi (or anyone else for that matter) sells any type of oil that meets thei requirements then we have to rely on whoever made the oil that it will, in fact, meets ALL the requirements for oil quality and longevity.

WE (I) sometimes can feel what is happening with the oil in how the oil is affecting our riding "experience", a bit more engine vibration, maybe clunkier shifting and we may have a tendancy to change it when those things occur, and of course the new oil "feels" better.
But was the old oil still "in grade", have minimal contaminants, still have enuff of the additives to continue being used? Only as has been said oil analysis can reveal that.

I have just under 3000 mls on my last oil change, for the first time runnin 20-50 in my efforts to see/feel/hear any differences, positive or negative as compared to the 10-40 I ran the first 41,000 mls. I will have 48,500 or so when the 7500 mls come up and a sample from this batch of oil will go in for analysis. We have a few places down here that do this and I just might spend the $$ to have 2 samples from this batch checked at 2 different places.

RACNRAY

[usranger74]

Like many here, I change mine at 5,000 miles. However, if I am taking off on a trip that will go over that I change it before I start. I also put the Nomad away for the winter with new oil in her.

[Silent Sam]

..Speaking of Oil...does anyone have any information on adding an Oil-Cooler..to these Big KAWK'z ?

Considering the water jacket only cools the top-end !

[Top Cat]

..Speaking of Oil...does anyone have any information on adding an Oil-Cooler..to these Big KAWK'z ?

Considering the water jacket only cools the top-end !

Why would you want to go to the trouble, has there been motors grenading due to heat build up :ohno:

[Silent Sam]

Just --considering- one august day..I dove off the 7,000 ft elevation, top, near the Grand Canyon, at temps around 70 degree's

East bound...Down into the Arizona Desert, where in about 15 miles the temp went to 114 in the shade..(and we all know-there is no "shade" out on the Macadame)
So I assume the temp on the bike and me..was around 135 degrees..and there was a 40 mph cross-wind from the south !
This was close to the end of life for me...I made it to some little motel and for $65, I crawled inside...where the "air conditioning" was putting out air at around 100 degrees, and at about 1:am.. I boogied outa there enroute to Cortez Colo..dodging deer, coyotes, coon's, skunks..
As for the Oil-Cooler Idea...my bike works pretty hard hauling my 250 lbs and my travel pack...another 60 -70 lbs ...and/or, the occasional passenger at up to 160 lbs
And in my old-feeble-age, I am considering pulling a little trailer to haul MORE Camping Gear...coolers, generator, gas powered blender..booze and mugs..guns..and maybe a tiny leetle lady !

[kc_voyager]

Ran Amsoil in a 2003 Dodge Diesel sent a sample in at 7,500 miles... OK, change filter add a quart. Sent another at 15,000 miles... OK, change filter add a quart. Sent a another at 21,000... OK. I just couldnt stand it, changed it and a diesel produces much more contaminants. My manual on the Voyager says 12,000 miles... I run Amsoil 10,000 miles and change it.

[Silent Sam]

I dummied-up and bought a 1997 Ford Power Stroke Diesel...in 2001 (the California Version w/double shot injectors & the Cali-stupid craputer)

WHAT AN Expensive & EMBARRASSING DOG !.... ! ! (at aprox 12 mpg)

I hooked up my new 2002, 30 ft, travel trailer, and headed for a vacation trip to the Great Plains..

First it wouldnt pull the slope south bound on 395 into Reno Nevada...got to the shoulder and activated the 4 ways to warn fast traffic coming from the rear...I had it boiling over in 1st gear (worthless E4 spd/OD automatic)...when I activated the 4 way's...each flash engaged the electric trailer brakes...jerk jerk..huff an puff jerk jerk huff and puff TURBO CHARGED ! Dead In The Water Tec-O Crap !
(I have millions of miles of OTR Trucking experience so KNOW what a truck should be able to do)

The worst disapontment was pulling the grade east bound on I-80 out of Salt lake City...had to stop three times to let the engine/tranny cool down...held up heavy truck traffic that was hauling up-grade at 80,000 lbs each (I was only weighing about 13,000lbs)

Long story short..when i got home..I tore it all down, installed a Banks Intercooler..two big transmission coolers..and moved the air cond condensor out in front of the entire "stack"..put it all back together and you cant tell by looking...

my nephew is a personal friend with Gale Banks..and I got a "custom craputer chip" from him.

Now that thing will outrun any loaded truck on any grade in america...and not over heat ! ...(I tested it at the same load in the same route, in a hotter weather time of year..) .

...But NOW It...gets 9 mpg..and I cant afford to run it !

I have gone to running it about 5,000 between oil changes !

[Dave]

I guess that's why the acronym for Ford is:
Found
On the
Road
Dead

[Silent Sam]

Yea Dave, I was always a Ford Man...til "hi-tec" came along....
My nephew in N. Idaho, has a Dodge 4x4..with the Cummins Diesel...due to his friendship with the "Bank's Connection", he has added some up-grades...and that Cummins Diesel will out pull my Power Stroke..and still deliver around 25 mpg on the hiway ! ...but then.It's NOT The California Version..

As per California's "Small Business & Job Stimulation efforts" ..Have you heard the latest..on what they have pulled on diesel powered,commercial trucker's ?
(I'm glad I took precautionary steps a few years ago..and have a address in New Mexico, where I now license my vehicles)